Pcb board

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by grs6680

Thanks for every ones help now sorted.

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So what was the problem Gordon?

Was the blank still in the female part of the car loom?

Brian

[grs6680]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

So what was the problem Gordon?



Was the blank still in the female part of the car loom?



Brian

No Brian there was another connector in there will get a photo to show later when I get home from work

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[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Devilish

On the end of your wiring loom you should have these plugs
75/ZT /MkI/MkII it is a factory standard.


The 6 pin plug should look like this from above


They plug into these sockets


75/ZT /MkI/MkII, they All start ALL PCB's from a 75/ZT and Land Rover Freelander ,when the engine is started and the ambient temp is 5°C

If the PCB originated from a BMW, Range Rover L322, etc, although identical, it will NOT start. Even if you do say Messiah.

Nice pictures Steve, when I said the PCB were identical, what I should have said is the PCB plugs are identical

The last line piqued my interest though, so do we know what is different in the case of the PCB's fitted to BMW and RR L322 then? is it a firmware issue, or do they require an input in the format of a K-Bus message from the HEVAC in order that they start up?

My knowledge of the FBH is limited to what I've discovered since I started playing with the one I was given a couple of months back, and what I managed to glean from searching for information in retrofitting the T80 and timer which came without their respective looms.

In all of the documentation relating to the control PCB variant fitted to my FBH, version 91452C, the auxiliary heater function is initiated by applying an input signal from the alternator to pin 1 of the six way plug, or in the case of a parking heater via the output from the timer, however having said that all documentation I've seen so far relates only to aftermarket versions of Thermotop C, and not manufacturer specific variants

In the case of R40, that means the alternator signal from the ECM comes in via the bi-metal N/O outside temperature sensor contact on the PAS cooler pipework, or in the case of the diagram I posted earlier in the thread, the timer pulling this pin high starts the FBH.

I will defer to the voice of experience though, I'm definitely a "newbie" when it comes the Webasto

Brian

[grs6680]

Hi Brian this is what confused me it was connected to the loom.

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[trikey]

Originally Posted by grs6680

Hi Brian this is what confused me it was connected to the loom.

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Yep, that’s the blanking plug put in place at the factory to protect the contacts in the harness plug.

[Arctic]

HI Gordon.
Yes that is the blanking plug that is on all the diesel cars without the FBH fitted, always best to keep the blank as you can make an extension lead from it which can be fitted to the car if you ever decide to have the soft ware put on a lap top to read the FBH

I made a few for the nano boys trebor & Devlish whom maintain the FBH

1

2

[grs6680]

Originally Posted by Arctic

HI Gordon.
Yes that is the blanking plug that is on all the diesel cars without the FBH fitted, always best to keep the blank as you can make an extension lead from it which can be fitted to the car if you ever decide to have the soft ware put on a lap top to read the FBH

I made a few for the nano boys trebor & Devlish whom maintain the FBH

1

2

Do you make the leads as I was looking at the software online?

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[Arctic]

Gordon.
Lead for the software is different I think it needs a USB drop Rob (trebor) a PM he will be able to tell you the lead above is an extension with a pin to earth the FBH if needed, I am almost sure the ones I made up for Devlish & trebor were later adapted by them.