Heating problems...

Paul Barber · 19th January 2017, 10:18

Having read the many posts by other 75/MGZT owners regarding low heat output on the 2.5 V6, and sharing the problem of very low heat on the passenger side, I had the cooling system flushed as suggested. Unfortunately this did not help...
Further advice was to check the thermostat and/or the water pump. As no local garage could be sure what to do (one expert (?) suggested removing the entire dashboard to get to the matrix), I asked the company where I purchased the car (Central Garages in Torquay) who were most helpful. They suggested by-passing the gearbox (auto in my case) heat exchanger! What actually happened since is that my local garage have now by-passed the oil cooler (not sure if that was their interpretation of what to do) and we now have heat restored to the car. I hope this might prove helpful to any one else out there with the problem, tho' it would be interesting if this might be considered not the best thing to have done?

SD1too · 19th January 2017, 22:33

Hello Paul,

First of all there isn't an intrinsic problem with low heater output on the KV6.

If you have low heat on only the passenger side then there can be only one cause; a partially blocked matrix. It sounds as if the advice you've received has been poor. Flushing the entire cooling system is not the most efficient way to clear the matrix. Its flow and return lines need to be opened so that it alone can be flushed. If that doesn't work you'll need to extract it but the entire dashoard does not need to be removed.

By-passing the oil cooler with an increase in coolant temperature is interesting. I would expect the opposite to happen.

I think that you might have had an air lock Paul, due to incorrect refilling and bleeding procedure. Here's the correct method. Ask your garage if they raised the expansion tank.

I would reconnect the oil cooler if I were you. It's a red herring.

Simon

Dragrad · 19th January 2017, 23:09

Thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old.

SCP440 · 20th January 2017, 06:47

I had a similar problem on my 260 and it turned out to be the thermostat on the engine, it was opening to early so the engine was not getting hot enough.

The gauge shows the engine is warm from 75 degrees and in truth you need another 10 degrees to get a decent heater output.

19th January 2017, 10:18	#1
Paul Barber Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Frant Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Heating problems... Having read the many posts by other 75/MGZT owners regarding low heat output on the 2.5 V6, and sharing the problem of very low heat on the passenger side, I had the cooling system flushed as suggested. Unfortunately this did not help... Further advice was to check the thermostat and/or the water pump. As no local garage could be sure what to do (one expert (?) suggested removing the entire dashboard to get to the matrix), I asked the company where I purchased the car (Central Garages in Torquay) who were most helpful. They suggested by-passing the gearbox (auto in my case) heat exchanger! What actually happened since is that my local garage have now by-passed the oil cooler (not sure if that was their interpretation of what to do) and we now have heat restored to the car. I hope this might prove helpful to any one else out there with the problem, tho' it would be interesting if this might be considered not the best thing to have done?

19th January 2017, 22:33	#2
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,382 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Hello Paul, First of all there isn't an intrinsic problem with low heater output on the KV6. If you have low heat on only the passenger side then there can be only one cause; a partially blocked matrix. It sounds as if the advice you've received has been poor. Flushing the entire cooling system is not the most efficient way to clear the matrix. Its flow and return lines need to be opened so that it alone can be flushed. If that doesn't work you'll need to extract it but the entire dashoard does not need to be removed. By-passing the oil cooler with an increase in coolant temperature is interesting. I would expect the opposite to happen. I think that you might have had an air lock Paul, due to incorrect refilling and bleeding procedure. Here's the correct method. Ask your garage if they raised the expansion tank. I would reconnect the oil cooler if I were you. It's a red herring. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

19th January 2017, 23:09	#3
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old. __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

20th January 2017, 06:47	#4
SCP440 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Witney Posts: 2,504 Thanks: 6 Thanked 910 Times in 571 Posts	I had a similar problem on my 260 and it turned out to be the thermostat on the engine, it was opening to early so the engine was not getting hot enough. The gauge shows the engine is warm from 75 degrees and in truth you need another 10 degrees to get a decent heater output.