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Old 26th December 2021, 18:43   #31
SD1too
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I've had a water leak for a while, not serious though. During the summer I've been trying to find it, so have been running since then with only the remnants of antifreeze ...
Also Stewart, that's not a good idea. As well as providing protection against freezing, antifreeze also contains corrosion inhibitors for the aluminium engine which of course are required all the year round.

You also mentioned a leak from the water pump bearing which might explain the rust on the pulleys. RAVE warns against coolant contamination of the timing belt.

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Old 26th December 2021, 20:05   #32
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Just seen this thread and pics therein - that is one very tired belt - the crazing on the non-toothed face is a massive giveaway.

I'd venture to suggest that all is factory, certainly the primary belt is.

The mill would have been noisier than usual but perhaps only noticeable with bonnet raised. Owing to the fact that the dust covers were acting as belt guides.
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Old 27th December 2021, 13:25   #33
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Just seen this thread and pics therein - that is one very tired belt - the crazing on the non-toothed face is a massive giveaway.

I'd venture to suggest that all is factory, certainly the primary belt is.

The mill would have been noisier than usual but perhaps only noticeable with bonnet raised. Owing to the fact that the dust covers were acting as belt guides.
I agree with Tim & Andy, that belt as passed 53,000 and should have been changed at 6yrs or in my opinion 60,000 to 75,000.

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Old 28th December 2021, 11:32   #34
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I now have a question.
When replacing the cylinder heads, do I need new bolts? There is no mention in RAVE of this, but I suspect that as they are a similar fitting to a K series, they need replacement?
It will be a little while, but I thought I'd ask now.
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Old 28th December 2021, 13:14   #35
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i believe they are stretch bolts stewart. some people have re used them again.but i would imagine only once. i would buy new ones ,that would be my opinion, but each to his own. there are members on here that would give you better guidance than me on this. im sure someone will be along shortly. again as you dont know the past history of the work carried out on the car , i would play safe .....
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Old 28th December 2021, 16:03   #36
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When replacing the cylinder heads, do I need new bolts? There is no mention in RAVE of this ...
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i believe they are stretch bolts stewart.
I have consulted RAVE too and Stewart is correct; there is no mention of discarding the cylinder head bolts and routinely fitting new ones for both the 1.8 K series and the KV6. If you find one damaged then of course it should be replaced but the idea that they are single-use by design appears to "stretch" the imagination.

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Old 28th December 2021, 19:22   #37
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the bible of course is rave. no i could not find any reference to not re using the head bolts either. what i did find though was reference to this in the " poor mans " rave. namely the haynes manual. under kv6 in car repairs. 2B21 "preparation for fitting section" they do indeed recommend this on higher milage vehicles etc and agree also that this is not a manufacturers pre requesit . especially if the bolts have been used before on high milers. i preferre the "just to make sure " approach and would buy the new bolts. stewart will make his decision im sure based on what condition the bolts are in , upon removal. they will maybe have to be used for cylinder clamping the liners down and returned to their matching locations that they were removed from. so stewart may need some extra bolts if he has a problem with any, and will need them at hand. The history of that car is not impressive to say the least , so i would buy new bolts , others would not. i knew that i had read something somewhere regarding the head bolts being replaced but could not recall where !! i have only done 2 head gaskets in the past so im not an expert. thankyou simon for pointing this out but each to his own. ...
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Old 28th December 2021, 20:03   #38
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Yes, I've already ordered the bolts along with the other bits.
Now, I'm thinking ahead. This is not a 'routine ' belt replacement, the old belt has snapped. So I have no idea where the timing is at. So, I guess the start is - before the heads are released - turn the crankshaft to the timing spot (top of the bottom toothed pulley?). I think that after that the crankshaft doesn't need to be moved.
Next, remove the old heads, I have no idea what the camshaft timing is at, but I'm replacing those heads so it doesn't matter. Now, let's keep this simple, and say the replacement heads were running ok and I'm putting them straight on(!).
I therefore can't see a need to clamp the liners - or am I missing something? If the new heads are bolted down, then each cam needs to be turned to the correct point, such that the rear marks line up. Correct? Then change the rear belts. Fit the front belt, give it a couple of turns by hand, and with all bits on it should go? Sounds simple (yeah!).
Now of course I'm going to check the new heads over, with some dismantling, but essentially putting them on (when back together) 'as received', hence the simplification earlier.
Is there anything I've missed? I bet there is.
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Old 28th December 2021, 22:59   #39
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you will need to check that the new heads are flat and not warped.a straight edge will be needed. also make sure the rear belt timing marks are inboard on the pullies , so that your timing is not 360 out when you move to safe position, and pin the driveplate on the inner peg hole if auto. do you have the timing tools stewart ? if the old heads were removed correctly they should be set correctly , but you should tell by checking the position again of the rear pulleys timing marks. have the heads arrived yet in your possession ? you will need to clean and check them very carefully as this could if things are not good, defeat the whole project. you probably miss the car but as simon suggested take your time and do the job slowly and carefully. i hope the heads come off without too much jolting , so yes you should not have to clamp the liners if your carefull. why i mentioned them was because you dont know yet if any damage has occurred to the liner bores or pistons . lets hope not . about time you had a little luck !!

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Old 28th December 2021, 23:18   #40
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dont disturb the camshaft carriers on the new heads unless you have to. if you do then number and mark them for position and make sure they go back in exactly the same place that they came off. they are worn to the shaft and need to go back in the same positions exactly.if they are wrong they will squeal like a pig. at the end of the day they are second hand and not reconditioned. thats a complete stripdown job with much work involved. you make a decision on them.at £50 each you cannot expect miracles. have a good look at them after cleaning and checking and make your decision. after all your old heads had racked up a few miles anyway !!!
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