Disaster - cambelt failure, KV6 heads wanted - Page 5

SD1too · 29th December 2021, 07:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by xsport

... do you have the timing tools stewart ?

The service tools will answer all your earlier questions Stewart. Laser and Sealey kits should still be obtainable.

Before you begin though, if your second hand heads have camshafts fitted, make sure that they have come from a Rover 2.5 engine and not a 2.0 or a MG 180 or 190. According to RAVE you're looking for an orange paint mark on the inlets and a blue mark on the exhausts. Or are you going to fit your originals?

Simon

xsport · 29th December 2021, 12:09

dont know if the camshafts have part numbers on to be honest.that would help identify them. you do in theory have the correct camshafts and their carriers already on your car if needed. a simple marking up procedure before removal might be worth doing on your existing camshafts , so at least you have a backup. did you get blue holymer ? without double checking on rave , was there an area towards the camshaft ends that needs application of this ? i may be wrong but check with rave.it should all be in there. if you do not have the timing tools you can hire from DMGRS i think. .... much to do ...

StewartIngram · 30th December 2021, 07:40

Heads are definitely from a KV6. I already have tool kit, used it before (once, a few years ago). I'm still waiting for the bits to arrive, and the heads may be delivered by by son today or tomorrow. As regards the history of the car, I was impressed with it when I first saw it, and the dealer did not try to impress me with sales talk, he told it as he saw it. The car seemed to have been well looked after, with plenty of paperwork. And those impressions have stuck in the 3 years I've had it. I was told that the dealer had been told the belts were done, but he had no proof. Later on, I did find proof in the paperwork, but now, I can't find it again, though I know I've seen it. But I don't believe it was done, the last owner was conned. But that is history, we are where we are, it wil be sorted. The car is far too good not to do it, and when you add what I've done as well - why would I change it? I've done a lot ow work on it (most if not all the club mods, new suspension, brakes, lpg, headlights, you name it. I've done 99% or more of the maintenance myself so I'm comfortable working on it. I've had R75s since 2007, and been doing my own maintenance since 1967, so I am confident, though always willing to learn! And there is absolutely no way I want one of those modern rubbish cars either, I've had to drive some on odd occasions and have hated every one!

SD1too · 30th December 2021, 10:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

Heads are definitely from a KV6.

Hi Stewart,

I don't want to labour the point because you're obviously knowledgable and experienced but the KV6 in the 2.0 litre Rover 75 and in the MG ZT 180 & 190 uses different camshafts to your KV6. I don't know which camshafts were used in the Land Rover Freelander KV6s. It's therefore important that you identify the colour codes I gave earlier if you intend to use the cam carrier from an unknown vehicle.

Simon

StewartIngram · 31st December 2021, 15:24

Big box of spares arrived today from DMGRS - including a free mug! Thanks Matt.
I've had a little while back on the car, cleaning up the mess. Looks more like MY car now, things are on the up (though a long way to go). Also weeded out the scrap bit, trial fitted a few bits (loosely) in case I need to remove later). All the parts that I'll be putting back on are getting cleaned up, not to concours condition but clean, as I like them to be. Makes working on the car a pleasure.
I haven't compared the heads yet, thats the next job after I get the old heads off. Just one point though -crankshaft timing? The locking pin is in, but the SAFE mark on the pulley is nowhere near where it should be. I've read the many threads on here regarding this, seems common, but is there a definitive answer?

xsport · 31st December 2021, 21:12

as long as the pin fits reasonably snug, and it should if you have the tools pin , and you are in the correct inner hole for auto on the drive plate, it should be correct. the safe marks do vary according to other members , but should not be that far away. the drive pin in the plate sets the sequence. you might be better off marking up the camshafts to their respective carriers clearly on your old heads before you start removing them. easier in situ. before your replacement heads go on you can turn the camshafts to the inboard timing mark positions (in a clockwise manner ) by using the tools in the camshaft slots provided. the tools then should do the rest and it will be easier to time once the heads are on. i dont know if there were e few different pump castings ,but they definitely do vary. mine was the same. put some sealant on the bottom lower threads of the bolts when you mount the new pump and the tensioner mounting bolts. also check that if you need to put some sealer on the top of the camshaft cover radius joins ? ......

SD1too · 1st January 2022, 07:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

The locking pin is in, but the SAFE mark on the pulley is nowhere near where it should be.

The notch on my pulley was also miles away from the SAFE arrow. It was otherwise in good, serviceable condition so I created a new mark in the correct position. It's inexplicable why it is like this.

You can see in this photo the relationship between the original factory notch (on the left hand side) and the crankshaft locating keyway. The new groove I made can be seen at the one o'clock position.

Simon

StewartIngram · 1st January 2022, 10:41

That looks about the same as mine. My pulley looks in good condition too (rare find on this job!) so I've cleaned it, sprayed it black, and highlighted the original notch and the lettering on it. I'll also add a new mark like yours.
I've started on the replacement heads, looking for some form of id to establish if they are the right ones. Only looked at the rear head so far, I've got the cam cover off, looking for paint marks as suggested, can't find any. However the inlet camshaft id stamped LGC106860. Rimmers don't list this one, but googling the number gave plenty of examples for sale. Most mentioned R45/75/Freelander, with at least one specifying R75 KV6 2002-2005, which exactly covers mine (very late Mk1).
Starting to feel optimistic here....

xsport · 1st January 2022, 15:18

wow. !! i knew the marks were out but thats a joke !! didnt realise they were that far apart. mine was out but only by 12 / 14 mm max. very strange. it would lead me to check the timing hole used , but im sure that must be the correct hole for the pin as simon completed his timing belt change without issues. must be some reason during the manufacture process why this has happened. very strange.

StewartIngram · 2nd January 2022, 10:12

Does anyone have a set of instructions for these? I normally scan all instructions to the PC but must have missed these, and have mislaid the paperwork. I can probably work out which item is which but it would be nice to know!

31st December 2021, 21:12	#46
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,644 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	as long as the pin fits reasonably snug, and it should if you have the tools pin , and you are in the correct inner hole for auto on the drive plate, it should be correct. the safe marks do vary according to other members , but should not be that far away. the drive pin in the plate sets the sequence. you might be better off marking up the camshafts to their respective carriers clearly on your old heads before you start removing them. easier in situ. before your replacement heads go on you can turn the camshafts to the inboard timing mark positions (in a clockwise manner ) by using the tools in the camshaft slots provided. the tools then should do the rest and it will be easier to time once the heads are on. i dont know if there were e few different pump castings ,but they definitely do vary. mine was the same. put some sealant on the bottom lower threads of the bolts when you mount the new pump and the tensioner mounting bolts. also check that if you need to put some sealer on the top of the camshaft cover radius joins ? ...... Last edited by xsport; 31st December 2021 at 21:21..

29th December 2021, 12:09	#42
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,644 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	dont know if the camshafts have part numbers on to be honest.that would help identify them. you do in theory have the correct camshafts and their carriers already on your car if needed. a simple marking up procedure before removal might be worth doing on your existing camshafts , so at least you have a backup. did you get blue holymer ? without double checking on rave , was there an area towards the camshaft ends that needs application of this ? i may be wrong but check with rave.it should all be in there. if you do not have the timing tools you can hire from DMGRS i think. .... much to do ...

30th December 2021, 07:40	#43
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	Heads are definitely from a KV6. I already have tool kit, used it before (once, a few years ago). I'm still waiting for the bits to arrive, and the heads may be delivered by by son today or tomorrow. As regards the history of the car, I was impressed with it when I first saw it, and the dealer did not try to impress me with sales talk, he told it as he saw it. The car seemed to have been well looked after, with plenty of paperwork. And those impressions have stuck in the 3 years I've had it. I was told that the dealer had been told the belts were done, but he had no proof. Later on, I did find proof in the paperwork, but now, I can't find it again, though I know I've seen it. But I don't believe it was done, the last owner was conned. But that is history, we are where we are, it wil be sorted. The car is far too good not to do it, and when you add what I've done as well - why would I change it? I've done a lot ow work on it (most if not all the club mods, new suspension, brakes, lpg, headlights, you name it. I've done 99% or more of the maintenance myself so I'm comfortable working on it. I've had R75s since 2007, and been doing my own maintenance since 1967, so I am confident, though always willing to learn! And there is absolutely no way I want one of those modern rubbish cars either, I've had to drive some on odd occasions and have hated every one!

31st December 2021, 15:24	#45
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	Big box of spares arrived today from DMGRS - including a free mug! Thanks Matt. I've had a little while back on the car, cleaning up the mess. Looks more like MY car now, things are on the up (though a long way to go). Also weeded out the scrap bit, trial fitted a few bits (loosely) in case I need to remove later). All the parts that I'll be putting back on are getting cleaned up, not to concours condition but clean, as I like them to be. Makes working on the car a pleasure. I haven't compared the heads yet, thats the next job after I get the old heads off. Just one point though -crankshaft timing? The locking pin is in, but the SAFE mark on the pulley is nowhere near where it should be. I've read the many threads on here regarding this, seems common, but is there a definitive answer?

1st January 2022, 10:41	#48
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	That looks about the same as mine. My pulley looks in good condition too (rare find on this job!) so I've cleaned it, sprayed it black, and highlighted the original notch and the lettering on it. I'll also add a new mark like yours. I've started on the replacement heads, looking for some form of id to establish if they are the right ones. Only looked at the rear head so far, I've got the cam cover off, looking for paint marks as suggested, can't find any. However the inlet camshaft id stamped LGC106860. Rimmers don't list this one, but googling the number gave plenty of examples for sale. Most mentioned R45/75/Freelander, with at least one specifying R75 KV6 2002-2005, which exactly covers mine (very late Mk1). Starting to feel optimistic here....

1st January 2022, 15:18	#49
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,644 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	wow. !! i knew the marks were out but thats a joke !! didnt realise they were that far apart. mine was out but only by 12 / 14 mm max. very strange. it would lead me to check the timing hole used , but im sure that must be the correct hole for the pin as simon completed his timing belt change without issues. must be some reason during the manufacture process why this has happened. very strange.