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Old 9th January 2022, 10:59   #21
SD1too
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... replaced the camshaft gasket and cam sensor ... new plugs, checked fuel filter ... I fitted the proper clip ... the purge control valve replaced ... 12 months ago ... I replaced the coolant temp sensor just as a matter of course ... I check plugs they are dry and no oil in the spark plug wells ... I fitted new coils and leads ...
Wow, and you say Paul that you're no mechanic! Well done, you appear to have cured the oil deposits on all four plugs. So what are we left with?
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This morning it ... coughed and spluttered ran for couple of seconds then stopped .... it does still start first time when engine warm.
This doesn't suggest a component failure but more a "tuning" issue. As Ron says, check your sparking plug gaps. You haven't mentioned the air filter, what's that like? Look particularly at the air intake system after the throttle butterfly for leaks because an incorrect air-fuel ratio is likely to be the cause of the P0420 code.

Don't take it to the garage.

Simon
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Old 9th January 2022, 11:41   #22
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Hi folks , just a update as to where we are now ( had to cancel visit to garage as said in earlier post as had to isolate, but test proved negative but had to wait for the given time) In the interim I replaced the camshaft gasket ( and cam sensor as said previously) new plugs, checked fuel filter no clip fitted but someone had used a self tapping screw which held it together but I fitted the proper clip anyway as I had it and why wouldn`t I. I have read on here about the purge control valve and replaced it12 months ago, and when it was going through the overheating stage in 2020 before I had the HGF in early 2020 I replaced the coolant temp sensor just as a matter of course.It has been on a couple of short trips and started ok and on return I check plugs they are dry and no oil in the spark plug wells. Yesterday I fitted new coils and leads, as usual everything possible comes from DMGRS so no inferior parts used.This morning it struggled once again and coughed and spluttered ran for couple of seconds then stopped and the only light that came on dash was the battery light and that went out when I attempted to start and it caught this time.The battery was fully charged thursday and on test is holding it`s charge. When it is on the road it doesn`t drive any different and it does still start first time when engine warm. No smoke visible from exhaust and on tickover it behaves no differently. Occasionally the EML would come on and on the OBD scanner it would be PO420 catalyst efficiency below threshold ( Bank 1) and have used cataclean and it doesn`t show again for some months, and as today it shows up no errors. So do you folks have a diagnosis I wonder ? All though I will probably still have to take it to the garage I feel I need to have a rough idea before I am fleeced as I have been several times before ( not just with this car) and am no mechanic, just know the basics really, any advice as always appreciated from you knowledgeable folk,regards Paul
This may sound like a stupid suggestion, Paul, but have you checked that the plenum is dry?...You've checked so many other areas and still have a problem starting, so perhaps it could be something a simple as a damp ECU playing up. ( well not actually "simple" as such but you know what I mean)

Paul
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Old 12th January 2022, 15:27   #23
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Default struggling to start from cold

Hi folks, I have regapped the plugs, checked the air filter, is clean ( as quite recently renewed) and dry.I have checked all around the air intake system and cannot find any leaks, thanks Simon. I have checked the plenum and bone dry in that area and replaced pollen filter at same time as would be due in a month or two. thanks Paul. I have not fitted a new oxygen sensor as yet although a quick chat with a chap who worked on these says there are two sensors,thanks Suzublu. I started the car this morning still strugging ( started on second try and then stopped) tried again and we were away. What I was aware of when it was warming up was a slight smell of oil in the exhaust fumes although no blue smoke, but was there all the same. I did check inside of oil cap but was clean as HGF was approx 3-4k ago.Took it on a five mile run and and again runs without any issues. So still remains elusive ! Cheers Paul
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Old 12th January 2022, 19:11   #24
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I have not fitted a new oxygen sensor as yet although a quick chat with a chap who worked on these says there are two sensors,thanks Suzublu. I started the car this morning still strugging ( started on second try and then stopped) tried again and we were away. What I was aware of when it was warming up was a slight smell of oil in the exhaust fumes although no blue smoke, but was there all the same. I did check inside of oil cap but was clean as HGF was approx 3-4k ago.Took it on a five mile run and and again runs without any issues. So still remains elusive ! Cheers Paul
There are 2 oxygen sensors, but the second serves no active purpose in the running of the car - the most it can do is put the check engine light on if it detects the catalytic converter is not working adequately.


Given that its now struggling to start, not just run, I don't think the O2 sensors are the problem anyway.

Check your coolant for signs of oil - not just the obvious mayo but even just a film on the top of the fluid in the reservoir. 3-4k is prime time for repeat HGF if an MLS gasket has been fitted over flush or uneven liners.
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Old 12th January 2022, 20:57   #25
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Default car struggling to start when cold

Hi folks, Oh that doesn`t sound very promising as it has HGF three times before I had it and I had it done three times in the 20k miles over the nine years I have had it.The garage who done the work the most recent (2020) used the parts for the job that I got from dmgrs which included the Payen gasket, and had a new rad fitted,It still overheated so the garage said if they used the MLS gasket and it cured it I wouldn`t have anything to pay.It didn`t cure the issue, and as have written on here before members of the club said use speed flush which I did several times and I also fitted a new PRT and it has taken us these 3-4k miles without any problems. I have run it on the digital temp gauge on every journey since (2020) so we know what was going on heat wise, and the garage in question did say the head couldn`t be skimmed again as it is at it`s limit.So I wonder if that`s it for the old girl ,I am not usually superstitious but I did buy it on the 13th of January in 2013, cheers Paul
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Old 30th January 2022, 10:25   #26
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Default Car struggling to start when cold

Hi folks, I thought would give an update on the issue of starting when engine cold. I conversed with Trikey and booked the car in for a compression test, readings are as follows, Cylinder 1 - 180 psi
Cylinder 2 - 120psi
Cylinder 3 - 130psi
Cylinder 4 - 140psi
So we have some issues ! Although the HGF has reared it`s ugly head six time`s ( three in my ownership 20k) and total mileage 76k, I feel it is worth saving ( probably mad , am talking to the converted I know ) and Trikey is going to take the job on and put right what is wrong. So in the hands of one who has the knowledge of these k series engines, the ole girl will live another day ! Thanks to all who gave advice etc on this issue as always much appreciated, regards Paul
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Old 31st January 2022, 09:30   #27
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Slightly off topic, but isn't it better to drive off ASAP so that the engine warms up a bit quicker? I give mine time for the turbo to be nicely lubricated and just drive sensibly.

On my CDTi similar symptoms were the forerunner of an injector failure. I would think it worthwhile to check those and the coil packs.
I usually give about 30 seconds for the turbo to spin up and when I turn the engine off, about a minute. I remember in my bus driving days how some drivers world start the engines from cold and rev the nuts off them. Most annoying!
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Old 1st February 2022, 07:31   #28
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Hi Polinsteve, yes I do the same after car is used just give that time to settle down, and as I had said before let temp ( on digital readout) get to 33 before moving off ,just to make sure everything is lubed and ready,( am sure the neighbours wonder why I sit in the car waiting for the temp to climb to the above} they just jump into their euroboxes and hoon up the road like nutters lol. They don`t have their cars too long before you hear them say their cars have had it and change it for another to treat them just the same ! Mind you nobody around here has a 75 so I don`t have to witness it being thrashed to death. I parked car ( yesterday) in large car park and on my return, nothing parked either side for several spaces and the sun was shining and I looked at my 75 and it made me smile, what a lovely looking car I thought. If I hadn`t got one I would be looking for one,cheers Paul
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Old 2nd February 2022, 22:14   #29
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I was going to suggest a compression test. I had intermittent starting issues with my 1.8 n/a a few years back. Andy Squire (Shiner) found low compression & it turned out all the valves needed re-seating & one exhaust valve was replaced. That cured the starting problems & the transformation in performance was very pleasing indeed.
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Old 3rd February 2022, 09:48   #30
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Hi Gary, yes it may be similar issue as you had, as the last two days it has started first time. When sorted it may well run better although I don`t feel it runs any different but then you get used to it so you probably don`t notice over a period of time unless it`s a significant change in performance. Like I said how it made me smile as I walked towards it in the carpark, I still turn round and look at it as I walk away when parked up and think yep that`s a lovely motor, and that`s before you get into the cabin and turn on the heated seats it just speaks class of days gone by, never to be repeated. cheers Paul
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