Jumping And Shedding Belt Info !

bigsteve · 17th March 2007, 17:11

Ford
Serpentine belt lets go. When Ford replaced its ancient 5-liter V8 with the modern OHC 4.6-liter modular V8 some years ago, everything seemed to go smoothly. There haven't been any major problems...except for the Mustang. Because it's a pony car and a muscle car, the 4.6-liter in its SOHC and DOHC variants sees a lot of high-- revving action with subsequent rapid decelerations, especially when coupled to the five-speed manual transmission. It's these decelerations that tend to overwork what Ford calls the Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD)-the serpentine belt drive, to the rest of us.
Affected models include those from 1996-98 with the five-speed. You'll see damaged belts, belts that have completely come off their pulleys and shredded to bits and noisy accessory drives. The fix involves installing new water pump and power steering pulleys that have flanged edges to keep the belt running true, and a new tensioner assembly to keep the belt from slacking off on the job. If you get a late-model, you might find the new pulleys already there. In this case, just replace the tensioner with a new belt.
Here are some tips to smooth your work: The flanged power steering pulley must be positioned .67mm past the end of its shaft. On the bottom of the power steering pump is a power steering line orientation clip. Ford says to chuck it and install a new-design clip.

Turning your attention to the automatic tensioner, look for a positive stop installed over the tensioner. If the part number stamped on the bottom of the stop is F7ZE-19A439-AB, it means you can toss both this stop and the tensioner. If you find no positive stop, just remove the two bolts and one nut that mount the tensioner to the engine. Throw everything out except the nut. Now, mount up the new steel tensioner with the one existing stud and nut that you saved, plus two new studs and nuts. Torque all the studs and nuts to 15 to 22 ft-lb.
Next, route the new belt around the accessories. Then put in the new Tensioner Positive Stop. It mounts over two of the tensioner studs and is held in place by two more nuts torqued to 15 to 22 ft-lb.

[ATTACH]Attachment 709[/ATTACH]

Keith · 17th March 2007, 18:39

Steve quite a few 260s have witness marks on the block where the belt loosens off on the over run not that many get to the point of shredding though but it has been mentioned

Have you modded your engine already then?

Got any links to suppliers for the bits or a kit of bits?

17th March 2007, 17:11	#1
bigsteve Regular poster ZT V8 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Tonbridge Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Jumping And Shedding Belt Info ! Ford Serpentine belt lets go. When Ford replaced its ancient 5-liter V8 with the modern OHC 4.6-liter modular V8 some years ago, everything seemed to go smoothly. There haven't been any major problems...except for the Mustang. Because it's a pony car and a muscle car, the 4.6-liter in its SOHC and DOHC variants sees a lot of high-- revving action with subsequent rapid decelerations, especially when coupled to the five-speed manual transmission. It's these decelerations that tend to overwork what Ford calls the Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD)-the serpentine belt drive, to the rest of us. Affected models include those from 1996-98 with the five-speed. You'll see damaged belts, belts that have completely come off their pulleys and shredded to bits and noisy accessory drives. The fix involves installing new water pump and power steering pulleys that have flanged edges to keep the belt running true, and a new tensioner assembly to keep the belt from slacking off on the job. If you get a late-model, you might find the new pulleys already there. In this case, just replace the tensioner with a new belt. Here are some tips to smooth your work: The flanged power steering pulley must be positioned .67mm past the end of its shaft. On the bottom of the power steering pump is a power steering line orientation clip. Ford says to chuck it and install a new-design clip. Turning your attention to the automatic tensioner, look for a positive stop installed over the tensioner. If the part number stamped on the bottom of the stop is F7ZE-19A439-AB, it means you can toss both this stop and the tensioner. If you find no positive stop, just remove the two bolts and one nut that mount the tensioner to the engine. Throw everything out except the nut. Now, mount up the new steel tensioner with the one existing stud and nut that you saved, plus two new studs and nuts. Torque all the studs and nuts to 15 to 22 ft-lb. Next, route the new belt around the accessories. Then put in the new Tensioner Positive Stop. It mounts over two of the tensioner studs and is held in place by two more nuts torqued to 15 to 22 ft-lb. [ATTACH]Attachment 709[/ATTACH] __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...67c1387a36.jpg

17th March 2007, 18:39	#2
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	Steve quite a few 260s have witness marks on the block where the belt loosens off on the over run not that many get to the point of shredding though but it has been mentioned Have you modded your engine already then? Got any links to suppliers for the bits or a kit of bits?