Hydramount Replacement.

[ricklincs45]

Hi, yes, definitely a rattle, though if you listen closely, it's not constant. The tone of the engine changes roughly every 3 seconds or so; rattle, less so, rattle, less so etc etc. Someone else listening to it might not even make it out.

Did think about putting a used one on (60 quid instead of £254 ) - it may sound cheapskate, but can't justify (to the wife) spending 254 + labour to find out it hasn't cured it.

Perhaps I just ought to live with it??

Rick

[Mr Jiminy]

What a superbly written guide. Rosie has always had a slight buzz in the cabin. I suspected the mount. It has got worse since the AA man lowered the engine slightly to get an auxiliary belt on (that damn tensioner!) so I'm suspecting it is now time for it to retire. Thanks for a great guide.

[Retap]

Nice info this thread thanks. Im stepping outside shortly to fit new hyrdamount and the secondary mount, both received earlier in the week from DMGRS.



Before Christmas I renewed the hp pump and whilst i was there decided to inspect the mounts because vibration was increasing. below are the photos i took.



So now i have had my 3 month winter break and tbh the condition of roads is worst i have seen already got one claim in with council for pot holed new tyre on a wheel side that i spent a fortune on new bearing and bushes etc for last mot GRRRR!!


Its time to get back to it.... P.S first time for me doing engine mounts but already had the mounts stripped off once except removal of Hydramount so bolts ready prepped to come off without hassle (he says lol with massive hammer and drift in hand) also noted the secondary mount supplied has less rubber than the original will post photo soon.



RATE THE OLD MOUNTS CDTI:

[Arctic]

Hi John.
Yes they both are due a change hope it goes smooth for you.

[Retap]

Hi Arctic glad to report job sorted without drama in well under 3 hours this afternoon. Old hyrdamount drifted out easier than expected happy days.


This is MK2 it had the damper black box on the bracket restricting access to the hydramount nut. Bolt C is to long to come out so unbolt two nuts "A" on secondry mount and the bracket will swing up under the air con pipes with manipulation for access to the Hydramount nut.



Also found the the short stubby sealey socket set indispensable as the Hydra mount top nut A needs that 18mm deep socket, can use the extension bar in the sealey kit onto a stubby 18mm from the kit, then the secondary mount bolts couple of those are tight for access. Used the Sealey set so much since last year makes those tight spaces a joy







Some photos note the differing rubber in the secondary mount.











All done

[Arctic]

Hi John.
I had to do the same with A/C pipes loosen them so the black bracket can be rotated upwards.
1

Then the hydra mount top nut can be removed.
2

I also removed the four bolts from the large alloy block.
3

The bolt going through the black bracket was then undone, but is to long to come out.
4

The engine was raised so that bolt was able to me removed.
5

Black bracket removed.
6

7

Then the alloy block was removed
8

9

This then left the hydra mount fully exposed for removal.
10

Then the star mount was removed as this would get in the way of the hydra mount being extracted.
11

Special tool used to remove the hydra mount.
12

Hydra mount changed out.
13

I must say that i am not impressed with the star mount being replaced with the one you have fitted is that not for a 1.8 engine? with only two pieces of the four rubber supports on an original mount?
14

Do you know the part number on the new mount ? as the number on the old one removed (326A56) is for a petrol engine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...gAAOSwBthfnyUR

[Retap]

See how it goes anyway has to be better than what came off!



and From DMGRS site:

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-mg-zt-tie-rod-engine-mount-kkh101841-kkh101972?_pos=4&_sid=8057ed201&_ss=r

Rover 75 / MG ZT Upper Tie Rod (Engine Mount) - KKH101841 / KKH101972 / KKH101852



These are genuine items from MG.


The design of this item has changed slightly from the original MG-R part - this item is now compatible with all engine types, as the centre rubber has been strengthened, and rubber bump-stops added to minimise rocking motion in service.

[Arctic]

Yes there were different part numbers for each model

1.8 engine
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101841

2.0 / 2.5 engine.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101972

Diesel
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101852


You will not find a diesel one as a Rowe diesel car was not made.
http://www.fiacom.net/MG%20ROVER-SUS...LS&SHAFT7.html

https://www.drive2.ru/l/4486122/

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000801942858.html


http://www.fiacom.net/MG%20ROVER-SUS...LS&SHAFT7.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000834267286.html


I don't really like these one part fits all as they do not if that was the case one fit all would have been fitted in the first place.

This is what we will be reading below, how can an original part be superseded, with one with less rubber in, it does not make sense.


(This is a brand new Genuine MG Rover RH top engine mount it sits by the RH inner wing.

Catalogue description: Mounting-right hand side engine

for all V6 engine types 2.0 & 2.5 Petrol Engine part number KKH101972 suitable for

manual and auto models and the 2.0 Diesel, superceeds part number KKH101852)

[Retap]

I know what you mean but its on now and its a fair bit cheaper than the MGR original part that Rimmers claim to have:



https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101852






Got some miles to do this week so see how it goes with it.

[Arctic]

Hi John.
Do let us know how it performs over the next few months also if there is any vibration from the mount cheers Arctic.