Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 27th April 2021, 07:11   #1
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default Brakes pulling to one side

I had a seized brake on the front near side. Have changed piston and seals.
Under heavy braking the car pulls violently to the near side.

I am ruling out suspension problems.
Could be tyre pressure so will check but brakes.
If it pulls left, is the left brake working better or worse then the right brake?
I get the impression the right wheel will lock up and the ABS has to do its thing when I test. This leads me to think left brake is not as good but then I would expect the car to pull to the right. This has left me confused.

I accept near side pads may have over heated and are now duff but what of the disc, if it still runs true, even though it too got very very hot is it still usable?

macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 07:49   #2
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Sorry to ask the obvious Ian but following your repair, have you bled the brakes at all four wheels following the sequence in the manual?

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 07:51   #3
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,515
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

If you think the pads have become glazed use a dreadnought file to bust the glaze. I often do this with the rear handbrake shoes, doesn't need more than a "shave".

My logic says if the left brake is operating better then it will pull to that side, not experienced it though.

Keep well
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 08:09   #4
Ducati750cc
Loves to post
 
Rover75 tourer

Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Ashton
Posts: 428
Thanks: 121
Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
I had a seized brake on the front near side. Have changed piston and seals.
Under heavy braking the car pulls violently to the near side.

I am ruling out suspension problems.
Could be tyre pressure so will check but brakes.
If it pulls left, is the left brake working better or worse then the right brake?


1) Yes the N/S is now more efficient than the O/S



I get the impression the right wheel will lock up and the ABS has to do its thing when I test. This leads me to think left brake is not as good but then I would expect the car to pull to the right. This has left me confused.


2) It would pull to the right if the O/S brake was more efficient than the N/S, you have the opposite effect.



I accept near side pads may have over heated and are now duff but what of the disc, if it still runs true, even though it too got very very hot is it still usable?


3) If the pads have overheated it's always best to change them regardless, ref.the disc as long as it is running true and it didn't reach 800-1000 deg, which I doubt ( bright cherry red ) it should be OK.


macafee2

When restoring or replacing callipers it's best practice to replace/restore a pair, the old ones will presumably be both the same age and will have had the same usage, so even if the O/S calliper assembly, piston, sliders etc are working they may not be as efficient as the N/S, a ride on a brake roller will show the difference in efficiency between each side.


When my sons did track days they often had blue discs at the end of the day, the only thing they did at the track, but not always, was replace the more aggressive pads for normal road pads, then drove home.


Don't forget that ABS can give a false sense of security and will only operate when one or more wheels are at the point of slippage, till then, under normal braking it won't correct side to side imbalance.
__________________
Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.
Ducati750cc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 08:59   #5
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Sorry to ask the obvious Ian but following your repair, have you bled the brakes at all four wheels following the sequence in the manual?

Simon
Simon,
no I just did that one caliper.

macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 09:07   #6
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
When restoring or replacing callipers it's best practice to replace/restore a pair, the old ones will presumably be both the same age and will have had the same usage, so even if the O/S calliper assembly, piston, sliders etc are working they may not be as efficient as the N/S, a ride on a brake roller will show the difference in efficiency between each side.


When my sons did track days they often had blue discs at the end of the day, the only thing they did at the track, but not always, was replace the more aggressive pads for normal road pads, then drove home.


Don't forget that ABS can give a false sense of security and will only operate when one or more wheels are at the point of slippage, till then, under normal braking it won't correct side to side imbalance.

I am wondering the same thing about efficiency of the two sides and it makes sense, near side moves easily, offside a bit sluggish.

I have always replaced pads in pairs or discs in pairs but never done a siezed piston in a car before.

I know changing the piston and seals should be a 5 minute job but the difficulty I had replacing the dust shield on the near side I sort of cant face doing the offside but perhaps a new set of pads on both sides and a new piston etc on the offside is the way to go or should I bleed all 4 wheels first?

Gents, I am grateful for the advice


macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 09:14   #7
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,515
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

I did both sides (pistons out etc) on my daughter's ZS180 although one side was binding more than the other. Think you should consider doing the same (even with the dust cover).

I've not quite finished as I've had to wait for new sliding pins. Can't find them locally although fitted to all Honda Civic etc, no Honda agent in town, eventually got a USA custom shop to get hold of them. Collected an hour ago.

More progress later today.

Keep well
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 09:25   #8
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
... or should I bleed all 4 wheels first?
Yes Ian, that's what you should do (strictly in the order given by the manual).

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 11:16   #9
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Yes Ian, that's what you should do (strictly in the order given by the manual).

Simon
In that case Simon I am making an executive decision, blow the expense, not a lot of expense. Following advice I will order a new piston kit for the off side and 2 pairs of disc pads.
I will do the lot including a proper bleed as per the manual and be done with it.

Seal kit about £20, mintex pads 16.50 and brake fluid I already have.

worst thing is working on the drive in full view of one and all.

thank you for the advice. As Jim Dimond sings " I should have known better"


macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2021, 11:29   #10
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Hi Ian,

My thinking is that air could be in the OS circuit, causing less effective braking action which would explain the pulling to the left. All you need to do is bleed the brakes. I don't see any need to replace anything on the OS (it worked perfectly before I assume) and you certainly don't need new pads.

But it's your money (and time).

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 15:16.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd