Drop Links Fitting Front

[Arctic]

HI Dawn.
Why not try Matt's drop links as he says he will stand by them, get them for the Nano meet and have them fitted there (FOC) that way if they fail you have not payed out to have them fitted Arctic.

[Dawn]

I can't come to the last nano Steve, I have to go close my caravan for winter. It should be ok until March though as it didn't get a warning. Its the rubbers that are starting to look perished.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Dawn

I need to get this done soon. Can't make my mind up with Meyle or try some of the new DMGRS ones. Garage want £60 to fit whichever I buy, though.

I fitted Meyle HD to my Dad's car all round, and they would be my recommendation to you Dawn

Brian

Meyle HD front drop links

[Heddy]

Am I missing something? If 7mm has to be cut off the thread at the top, why isn't the thread made the correct length during manufacture? Do the 75/ZT links have other applications?

[BigRuss]

Originally Posted by Heddy

Am I missing something? If 7mm has to be cut off the thread at the top, why isn't the thread made the correct length during manufacture? Do the 75/ZT links have other applications?

The threads have always been that long, great if you fit them with the spring off, but if you're fitting it with the strut assembled and might want to replace it at some stage then cutting off the excess thread means you can easily tighten or loosen the nut easily. With the thread the original length it can be very difficult as the spring coils get in the way

It's another bit of wonderful Rover design (not)

Russ

[Mangizmo]

I love your "How To's" this is another brilliant one which I will follow today

Thanks again

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Mangizmo

I love your "How To's" this is another brilliant one which I will follow today

Thanks again [/QUOTE

]

Hi Vaughan
Thank you that is appreciated.

You may well have completed the job by the time you read this post, when you or members started this job take a little time to clear the muck around the top joint.

1

Remove the bottom joint first.
2

Once the nut as been removed pop the link out of the stabilising bar.
3

You can now have a go at cracking the top nut on the drop link, remember I am using ground down spanners to help get the ring spanner over the thread onto the nut, and an open ended spanner also with it's shoulders ground flat so it fits into the gap if needed.

Use the flat on the link to turn the link rather than trying to undo the nut.
4

Once you have managed to back off the link a little you could use an hacksaw with a new sharp blade in to cut the link, use small controlled movements it only takes about a minutes or two to get half way through.

5

Once half way through you can then bend the link and it will snap off.
6

7

Do this the other side also it saves taking an age to get the top nut off as it is always rusted onto the thread.

Add the new drop link do the top nut first then the bottom
8

Good luck I hope it all went well for you Arctic.

[Mangizmo]

[QUOTE=Arctic;2776124]

]

Hi Vaughan
Thank you that is appreciated.



Good luck I hope it all went well for you Arctic.

All went well with your help, I would not have thought of using ground down spanners but it was certainly the way to go, the passenger side was actually on back to front!!! all good now parts supplied by Matt
Thanks again for a great How To

Vaughan

[Arctic]

photos replaced in part of the thread, the others i am still searching for

[Arctic]

Hi well i had the privilege of sorting out a local members front drop links a few days ago after servicing his car, a few video taken that was fun try to service a diesel car with one hand

He relayed to me he was having a knocking sound over every little bump or pot hole in the road, when i check the OS link it was completely shot on the top end, it looked like it had come undone or not been tightened up, but what i suspect and have for a long time with these drop links with the full thread on the top part not being cut down they get hammered by the spring in my opinion.

Anyways car jacked up at the front using the jacking point, axle stand either side under the side jacking points.

1

2

3

This car as the tyre protectors attached which need to be remove before you can tackle the drop links.
4

I noted that the dome shaped small 8mm bolt hold the protector had been round off a little so would not undo easy.

5

Therefore out come my Irwin bolts grip removers
6

7

This soon got the bolt to move freely.
8

That was soon out.
9

The 10m larger bolt was ok to use a socket on, the protector was then removed from the strut.
10

Now we/i can set about changing out the damaged drop link, first undo the bottom nut of the drop link tied to the anti-roll bar, most of these are 17mm some are 15mm but that is rare, undo it a little first.
11

Once you have got the nut started to undo then add a open end spanner in the flat of the drop link 14mm in this case.
12

Remove the nut.
13

Then pop out the bottom part of the drop link from the ARB
14

We are now ready to do the hard bit tackle the top nut which as limited access due to it's location in a pocket under the front spring

Use the flat on the drop link to undo the thread a little, you may have to use an open ended ground down 17mm spanner on the nut to get it started.
15

Once you have enough thread showing to allow an hacksaw blade to be used, make sure the hacksaw blade is new and sharp first put the lower end back into the ARB to stop the link from just turning when you try to cut through the thread.
16

17

It should not take long to cut through the thread, most of the time once to are 3/4 through you can pop out the bottom and lever it up and it will snap off.
18

The link can now be removed from the strut.
19

20

The new drop link with the thread cut by 7mm minimum can be offered upto the strut.
21

The nut started by hand onto the thread.
22

Now a 17mm ring spanner ground down in my case can be used to hold the nut while i turn the drop link clock wise to pinch it up to the stop on the strut.
23

24

You can then pop in the bottom part of the drop link into the ARB
25

This is so easy no need for any removal of the ARB clamps to line it up etc, you may have to hold down the ARB a little but not in this case, as is 99.9% of the time.
25

Start the nut by hand onto the thread so stop it from crossed threading.
26

Now go back to the top part of the drop link and use a open ended spanner 14mm in this case on the flat of the drop link.
27

use an ring spanner on the nut to tighten up the top as tight as yo can get it by hand, then do another 1/4 turn.
28

29

Once you have the top tight, you can then tighten the bottom of the drop link again using a socket and open ended spanner the the flat.
30

Re-fit the tyre protector the drop link is now fitted, move onto the other side as its best to change these in pairs again in my opinion.
31

I will upload a video i did of the NS drop link later Arctic