How To Remove and Refit Steering Column

[AndreRijo]

That was my initial thought, but was not sure.

I already change mine many months ago and at the time, I didn't remember seeing two of them available.

But a friend here who owns a 75, ask me why there were two... didn't even know what he was talking about.

I will tell him to go for the cheap one. It worked for my ZT-T.

Thanks.

[neilll]

I have posted on another thread on how I got the rubber boot off in one piece, it might come in useful for some one.
I found an old piece of plastic waste pipe (40mm diameter I think) about 300mm long and cut it in half length wise, then I used insulation tape to join them on to the column and over the knuckle joint. I then liberally sprayed the pipe with silicone lubricant and gave the rubber boot a big tug and off she came. I would imagine it will go the other way just as easily.

Neil

[hogweed]

Sorry for being thick – as usual – but I’ve just got a new rotary coupler, and am using this guide to try and fit it. I don’t get the bit about the white marker – I can rotate the inner bit of the coupler in either direction, and it doesn't seem to move its position.

Am I doing something wrong, or fundamentally misunderstanding what you mean?

The other thing is, I can’t tell how far in either direction the coupler may have been turned before I fit it – ie it might be already wound to near its fullest extent in either direction, and would then break, I guess, if I turned the steering wheel that way… is that what the white thingy is about?

- Confused of Gloucestershire

[T16]

Oh &^&£$.....

I got a column from the scrappy but they had no key.

Does that mean there is no way to remove the barrell without damaging the column casting?

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by T16

Oh &^&£$.....

I got a column from the scrappy but they had no key.

Does that mean there is no way to remove the barrell without damaging the column casting?

Why did you do that Ross?

Throw it in the bin and try again, in fact why not get one with a key next time

Brian

[T16]

It was -4DegC and the scrappies were being ****-holes. They didnt keep keys for any of the cars, and wouldnt even let me connect 12v to the car to take out the electric seats.

I wasn't thinking, I just remembered doing it before, but using the key escaped my memory.

Really annoyed, the column was mint! if its a bin job, so be it... !

Not sure WHY it happens to me, but every ZT ive owned bar the 260 has ended up with play in the steering column joint, which in the right circumstances sounds like a suspension knock. With a little force you can make it "thunk" by pulling the LHS of the wheel and pushing the RHS of the wheel at the same time.

Its not like Ive been rallying in them, but for some reason they have all worn out this way in the end.

[T16]

Whoa whoa...

Ive just seen... are those LHD steering colums really just different in the rubber boot at the bottom?!

If so, ill just grab a new one and forget faffing in the scrappies..

Brian... your wisdom probably already knows the answer I bet....

[JonMs]

I fitted a new LHD steering column (Rimmer Bros) to my RHD car a while ago now, following the advice above. I had no problems fitting it at all. No need to cut the bottom boot to replace it, just use split waste pipe and plenty of plumbers silicone lubricant and it goes on a treat.

[T16]

Ive got a better method...

Pop the plastic cap off... slide shaft apart.

Cap is stiff, but thats all thats stopping the two shafts being pulled out.

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by rich17865

Please pay special attention to the the directions, failure to follow this information accurately may result in damage to your airbag system. It is recommended that your battery is disconnected at least 10 mintues before any work on the airbag system is undertaken.

First of all, make sure that the wheels are pointing straight ahead and that the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.

Now release the tilt / slide mechanism and pull the steering wheel all the way out and all the way down and lock it in place.

Loosen the two torx T30 screws holding the airbag to the steering wheel. Note that the screws are captive and will not fall out. You will need to turn the steering wheel to get access to the screws.



Once removed, straighten the wheel and lift out the airbag to reveal this connector.



Pull the middle of the connector out and then you can withdraw the plug from the airbag and put the airbag to one side.



You can now see the steering wheel control plug, unplug this. You will need someone to help you remove the bolt securing the steering wheel. It is a 16mm socket required, it is very, very tight. DO NOT use the steering lock to hold the wheel while you remove the bolt, get an assistant to hold the wheel so that it does not turn. If you do use the steering lock, you will smash the delicate cast steering column.



With the bolt removed, you can see the marking for lining up the steering wheel and steering column.



Slide the steering wheel off the column, carefully feeding the airbag wire through the wheel.

Next you need to remove the steering column cowlings, remove these two screws hidden inside the cowling.





Because of the way the cowling fits together, lift the top part up first, then the bottom part will easily come away when the tilt lever is released.



With the cowling removed, you can see the four torx T20 screws that hold on the airbag coupler. Remove these screws and unplug the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and airbag coupler. There is no need to remove the stalks from the airbag coupler, it can be removed as one piece.









You now need to unplug the ignition switch, by pulling out this tab and lifting out the plug.



Also unplug the immobiliser induction ring.



Next you need to remove the dash covers, remove these two screws from the lower dash panel and pull the whole panel towards you to release it.





Next unwind these fixings to release the under dash panel, there is no screwdriver slot in these, so I unwind them just using my fingers, they are not tight.





You will now be able to easily see the large rubber grommet in the floor coving the steering column universal joint.



Lift this grommet up and you will be able to see the joint, notice that the bolt is facing away from you.



At this point, refit the steering wheel without bolting it on, turn the wheel about half a turn clockwise so that you have access to the nut.



Remove the nut, slide out the bolt, the connection to the steering rack pivots off, it does not slide off, take a look at this picture.



Now release the wiring loom from the column, it is fitted with two fir tree type clips at these points. Move it out of the way for the following steps.





Completely remove the bolts in the following pictures (on both sides of the column), with all four bolts removed, loosen but do not remove the two phillips screws.





Once you have done the above, holding the steering column with two hands, pull it towards you and it will come out in one piece.

You will need to remove the ignition barrel so that it can be fitted to your replacement column. Insert the key, turn to position one, and push a very stiff paperclip or similar into the hole under the key. The lock will just pop out. To refit it, just push it back in place and remove the paperclip.



If you are fitting a new part, you will also have to swap these plastic bits, they are where the cowling screws in, but did not come with the new part.



THIS BIT IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!

When refitting your steering column, slide it onto the two philips screws and tighten them, fit and tighten all four bolts holding it in place. Fit the universal joint back onto the steering rack and fit and tighten the pinch bolt.

DO NOT overtighten the bolts, they are only screwing into aluminium!

Put the steering wheel back on the column, and turn it about half a turn anti-clockwise to put the wheels back in the straight ahead position, and to put the column marker back at the 6 O'clock position. (remember you turned it earlier to reveal the nut)

If the marker is at the 12 O'clock position, you have made the connection to the steering rack upside down.

When refitting the airbag coupler, there is a white marker on the coupler to identify that it is in the middle and is ready for the steering wheel to be refitted. If you cannot see the white marker, do not fit the steering wheel as you will damage the airbag coupler when steering. You will need to rotate the coupler until the white marker is showing.

You can see the white indicator here to the left of the steering column.



Please, please, make sure you have refitted the airbag coupler correctly before driving the vehicle. With the engine running, gently turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, to make sure you have assembled it properly and have full range of use.

If you aren't sure, don't do it, I don't want to read about how you ended upside down in a field when it came off in your hands, or had an accident and the airbag didn't go off because you damaged the coupler.

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of these How-To's can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following these How-To's.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.

Any chances that the photos can be re-instated?