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27th May 2016, 02:07 | #1 |
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Maintenance Checks Weekly.
Hopefully I am not teaching people to suck eggs so to speak, I thought I would put together in a pictorial how to what I do each weekend to my car.
I normally carry these checks out on a Saturday or Sunday, when I get the time morning or afternoon but always without fail, this gives me piece of mind that the car is ready for the oncoming weeks traveling. My first port of call it to the local BP or Esso to add petrol and check my tyre pressures. Set the tyre pressure machine to my PSI which is set out in the MGZT manual 32psi 1 pressurise each wheel in turn including the spare in the boot. 2 3 At the same time check the tyres for splits, cracks, balding or nails all round the car. 4 Before I left home to sort out the tyre pressures I set the OBD to 19 then 7 to check the temperature and leave the car running while add the pressure. 5 With the temp up to 100c the fan kicks in the low speed to bring the temp back down, check this through the front grill 6 Temp moving down nicely as it should if all is well with the thermostat 7a 7b My next task is the famous plenums, which i still check each week even if it as been dry just to make sure no debris as entered the lower plenum tube. 8 I start at the OS driver. 9 Remove the out cover and using a torch check in the plenum chamber 10 11 12 Next do the NS passenger by removing the outer cover and exposing the spyhole mod if you have it, if not you will have to remove the inner plenum tray. 13 With the rubber bung removed you can use your plenum rod of your choice, to rod the plenum tube. 14 15a 15b Also check the outer wing tubes at the same time. 16 17 Before refitting the driver OS top outer cover, check the brake fluid level top up if needed, if it is down more than the lower level and it was ok last week when you checked it ? then look for leaks in the braking system. 18 Plenum area sorted now you can move on to the other fluid checks 19 Washers bottle top up if needed 20 Next power steering fluid remove the cap have a rag ready. 21 Place the cap on to the rag and give it a wipe. 22a 23 Reinsert the cap screw it down remove and check the level, once again top up if need be. 24 Next I check the Vis Motors work I am lucky in this respect as I have self testing ones supplied by our own Mr Vis (stocktake) Dave. 25 26 To test other wise you need a vis tester, or T4 If you would like the self testing vis motors for your car I am sure Dave (stocktake) would be able to sort you out, drop him a PM. I now turn my attention to checking all the lights work as they should. Front lights 27 Indicators front and side 28 29 Now check the rear lights, side, brake and indicator lights work. 30 You will need someone to press the brake pedal to check the brake lights Check the number plate lights both work. 31 32 Remove the key so you can check the gong alerting you have left the lights on. 33 Reinsert the key and turn it to position II 34 Make sure that the ABS light passes the initial test no air bag lights are on. 35 Set the OBD to section 2.0 36 37 Press it again to self test the dials etc 38 39 Check the battery terminals are nice and secure. 40 41 42 Section 2 oil level checks and water checks, along with the breather pipes etc. Arctic.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 26th March 2021 at 12:15.. Reason: Replace photos |
27th May 2016, 02:09 | #2 |
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Sectiion Two Checks weekly
Section two of the weekly check oil level, coolant water, breather pipes etc.
By now after the drive back home ( 5 miles )and doing the previous checks, the engine will had time to settle to check the oil level. Remove the dip stick from the oil tube once again have the rag ready. 42 Wipe the dip stick clean leave it for a few seconds. 43 Remove the coolant cap slowly just in case it is still hot and pressurised, you may hear a hiss if so go slowly. 44 Check that the coolant O-rings are in good condition and not flat but convex like these are, if you have not already fitted Viton one my advice would be to do so when you can, these are FREE at the Nano meets. 45 Make sure the coolant level is just a smidge above the high level 3ml maybe that is how I like it, some like it bang on the level step. 46 Now back to the oil level as by this time after removing the dip stick a few second/ minutes ago the oil will have been pushed down the tube due to gravity well that my thinking, can not say it is right for sure. Reinsert the dip stick 25 second count and remove to check the level. 47 As you can see mine is just above the low level I like it maybe 2ml higher 48 I will add little oil just enough to bring it up 2ml 49 50 Topped up cap refitted oil level sorted. 51a 51b 51c My next job is to remove the engine cover two 8m bolts removed with a socket. 52 Once the engine cover is safely out of the way check all breather pipe joins for security, make sure they are not leaking, or broken if so you will need to sort them out. 53 54 follow the breather pipes to the ends and check that they are inserted properly, both by the throttle body and into the throttle body. 55 Also check at the front 56 Even though my temperature is ok and my fan kicks in when it should I always like to check into the V of the engine with a torch for thermostat leaks, as mine was changed just over two years now and still ok. 57 58 59 60 Checks finished for this week, if any members check other items in their weekly checks please add to the thread keep motoring. This is mainly for the V6 engine but the diesel can be checked for fluids etc the same. Arctic.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 26th March 2021 at 12:42.. |
27th May 2016, 06:45 | #3 |
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Jobs that take no time to do and thus saving you money in the long run.
When checking the tyres I also check my full size spare. Plus I make sure the Jack operates as it should. Nice write up, many thanks.
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27th May 2016, 07:14 | #4 |
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Excellent thread Steve, I will be using this as a guide from now on.
Thanks
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27th May 2016, 08:49 | #5 |
I really should get out more.......
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It's an excellent thread with great pictorial.
Just a couple of comments of things that occurred to me while reading. Firstly it's much simpler to have one of the excellent tyre inflators stored in the boot for most people so that they can check the tyres at home. I also have a quality pressure gauge too. Secondly the power steering fluid, shouldn't this be checked on a level surface, wheels pointing directly ahead with the engine running? Not a criticism in any way of your excellent post, more like a question.
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27th May 2016, 09:14 | #6 | |
Posted a thing or two
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Excellent guide.
Quote:
As above. All fluids should be checked on a level surface. Worth clarifying. I would add : - Check tyre treads for stones or debris such as glass. If required turn wheels so that front or rear of tyre is pointing outwards. Remove any debris found, might save a puncture later. Especially if you live in areas with flint stones. - Visual inspection of brake pad thickness. The rough rule I go by is whatever the thickness seen on the more easily visible side, the other pad could be around half of that. - Check for coolant leaks - at radiator top hose elbow. All models. - Check for coolant leaks - diesels only - at thermostat and hose that joins head. - Inspect belts - petrol models and diesels. Air conditioning belt on the diesels prone to cracking long before the auxiliary belt. - Check under car for wetness. Maybe oil from engine, coolant leaks or worse (if near brakes) brake fluid. Cheers Andrew |
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27th May 2016, 09:19 | #7 |
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Another one of Arctic's brilliant 'How To's
Ever thought of bringing all these together in book form? "The Definitive Guide To 75/ZT Ownership"
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27th May 2016, 10:02 | #8 | ||
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Quote:
Robert yes another good idea which I never thought of at the time make sure your jack and tyre iron and the lock nut remover is in good order at the same time as checking the spare tyre pressure, the spare is most important as it is the one that is going to get you out of trouble should it arise you get a deflated tyre.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 4th October 2017 at 10:01.. Reason: spelling |
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27th May 2016, 10:12 | #9 | ||
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Quote:
Excellent points on all you stated above, and a great added addition to the thread which I like I have the tyre inflator and gauge I go to the garage to get the engine up to temp as the V6 oil check after it as been brought up to temp and allowed to settle for about 20 minutes luck as it also my drive is flat.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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27th May 2016, 13:33 | #10 |
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Hi ....What power steering fluid would you use?
Thanks Keith
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Bumble Membership Number 35478 Born Monday, 16th June 2003 @ 14:30:35 This vehicle was the 9,196th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894 This vehicle was the 576th ZT 180 + to be made out of 828 This vehicle was the 871st ZT in XPower Grey (code: LEF) to be made out of 3,143 XPower Grey ZTs |
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