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20th March 2021, 16:31 | #1 |
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lower wish bone removal
For any one who has done it..
You can replace the rear rubber bush mount and replace it while leaving the lower wish bone still attached as the rubber mount can be pulled off. Therefore if you want to replace the lower wish bone can you pull the wish bone out of the rubber mount leaving it attached to the sub frame?
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20th March 2021, 16:48 | #2 |
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You can but as the rubber bush and housing are not at all expensive it would be wise to change them at the same time.
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20th March 2021, 17:06 | #3 |
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Yes I understand that, But I have only recently replaced both rubber mounts and imagined that it would help not having to remove them if they could be left in situ.
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20th March 2021, 21:12 | #4 | |
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Quote:
Simon
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20th March 2021, 21:36 | #5 |
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So much easier to just remove the arm & bush & as said, I doubt very much if you would have enough lift on the inner ball joint to get the pin out of the subframe.
If I have to replace the arm, I always quote for a bush too anyway. The good news (for the OP) is that your new bush (or bushes) should come off of the old arm with ease. |
21st March 2021, 06:26 | #6 |
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I think we are talking these parts
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1760-rbx101770 I think marinabrian has also said they can be done by just lowering the sub frame a little. You are working in a very tight space, something I am not good at and I query if there is space to torque the fixing bolts up. macafee2 |
21st March 2021, 06:35 | #7 | |
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Quote:
As echoed by others If your replacing the arm change the rubber mount , your doing the hard work removing the pinch bolt and ball joint . for the sake of two extra bolts its out . It’s a no brainer If you damage the bush pulling the arm out you will have to replace it anyway ,which if aging can be starting to become unbonded ! |
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21st March 2021, 07:07 | #8 | |
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21st March 2021, 10:40 | #9 |
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Also they are a PITA to get at.
Been there and done it several times, but always change them for poly bushes, if I'm replacing the arm I simply cut through the ' tail ' of the arm which quickly gives enough wiggle room to get the ball joint out and more working space to attack the mount bolts. Couldn't agree more, especially the problem with bolts that haven't been touched for years and after knocking the rust scale off the heads you find the best socket / ring spanner in the world is not the tightest fit. It wasn't BMW who put the mounting bolts on their models from below...............was it ? I've recently been given another tourer ( 3 now ) an MOT failure for severely corroded upper rear arms and what appeared at first sight as very heavy rust scale over the whole of the rear underside but after a quick exploratory zap with a needle scaler looks OK, an otherwise nice car. I've been taking photos as I've been doing it and will post them when finished, the reason the corrosion was so bat will be interesting to see.
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21st March 2021, 12:27 | #10 | |
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Quote:
If memory serves me right it doesn't help that the bolts have A/F of 18mm either . I have a selection of combo spanners cranked and angled, also a set of aviation spanners similar to linked below . I always ensure the bolts are well copper greased up on refitting https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bergen-Gear...y%2C158&sr=8-3 Last edited by TourerSteve; 21st March 2021 at 12:36.. |
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