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24th April 2021, 12:27 | #1 |
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Which primer?
Hi all
I have to do some rattle can work on two 75's one is White Gold and the other is Copperleaf. I was reading somewhere that the primer colour used affects the hue of the top coat, but can't establish whether I need to use white or grey primer on each. Help please Cheers Geoff |
24th April 2021, 15:37 | #2 |
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2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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I've always used red primer on my copperleaf one .
Results have always been a good match Don't know for sure about your gold one , but I would imagine a grey primer
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24th April 2021, 20:47 | #3 |
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Could you do a small test patch on a piece of clean metal ??
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25th April 2021, 09:44 | #4 | |
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Quote:
Yes, the wrong colour of primer, or simply painting onto the present paint can allow their colours to show through slightly in some circumstances, due to the fact that ideally a relatively thin coat of paint is normally required to get the required colour match with the old paint, if primer etc shows through and further heavier coats of paint are required to hide it this may show as a slight colour change and a greater density of the metallic component showing. Things to consider are: 1) are you painting onto bare metal, filler or a previously painted finish or some of each, as in a repair patch. 2) the supplier of the can should be able to advise you of the correct primer colour, Halfords or a paint mixing shop? 3) what you call the top coat in metallic paint, comprises two components, base (the colour) and clear (lacquer) normally applied as two separate coats, check if the can you are buying is 'gloss from the can' this is a mix of base coat and lacquer, or is it base coat only, if so you will need a can of lacquer. Most important is to ensure the area is perfect in comparison with the surrounding area, it is feather edged perfectly, there is no polish or silicone contaminating the area, panel wipe or spirit wipe then tack rag. Then apply the paint according to the suppliers instructions regarding i.e. distance of can to surface, time between coats and so on. A couple of secrets of good spray painting finishes is to not be tempted to lay it on too thick especially with cans where the paint is much thinner and very important keep the can at 90 degrees and the correct distance to the surface at all times over the length of the paint area, in other words, do not wave the can in an arc to cover the area, all this will result in is a thin paint build at each end of the arc where the can is at a greater distance and a different angle to the surface, but in the middle of the arc there is the danger of a heavier build with the possibility of lace curtains. Finally don't paint a surface if it is hot, warm OK but not hot, this can result in the solvent flashing off before the paint has had time to flow and a rough finish like sandpaper results.
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