Branded Parts VS Alternative

Dallas · 12th August 2016, 19:31

Due to how big and important a job changing the timing belt is on the V6, I have been comparing branded parts to the slightly cheaper altenative with help from others. In our findings we have found some big differences in quality, also differences in weight of some items, some parts actually weigh more/less than the alternative equivalent.

The first thing thats noticed is the quality, some parts generally seem better quality than others, can be seen just with the naked eye.

Lets start with the belts.
Belts: MG Rover VS Dayco.
MG Rover wins hands down, they look and feel better quality. The high tensile thread is more apparent in the MGR belt as you can see. The rubber feels dramatically stronger and heavier, you can imagine it will have a better resistance to heat. The teeth are more precise regarding detail and shape. The overall moulding and appearance looks better. The MG Rover actually weighs 10g more than the Dayco alternative, not sure if that is a good thing or not.

Some Pics.

Dallas · 12th August 2016, 19:59

Water Pump: Continental VS Alternative.
The water pump has been somewhat difficult to come to a conclusion as yet, there is a big difference regarding the seal depth within the casing, also the smoothness of the metal propeller. The MG Rover pump has a shallower groove within the casing regarding the rubber seal, it would appear the seal stands taller allowing a thicker longer depth when it meets with the engine to make that tight seal. The alternative pump has a deeper groove within the casing, the seal sits further down, seems there is less rubber to make that contact with the engine. I would appreciate other members views and opinions regarding this matter. The Continental pump also has a strong tension regarding its propeller rotation.

Some Pics...

Continental Pump.

Unbranded Pump.

Continental Pump.

Unbranded Pump.

Continental Pump.

Dallas · 12th August 2016, 20:09

Idler: MG Rover VS Unbranded.
MG Rover seems to have a slightly larger/wider bearing width and diameter within the wheel casing. Thicker smoother moulding plastics. Tighter joints regarding the wheel casing. Better quality regarding material, the overall moulding and appearance looks better. The unbranded part seems to have a defect within the plastic wheel moulding, its miss-shaped/sunken on the wheel surface. The MG Rover part weighs 295g and the unbranded part 272g.

Some Pics.

Left: Unbranded - Right: MG Rover.

MG Rover.

Unbranded.

MG Rover.

Unbranded.

barney bear · 12th August 2016, 20:16

I don't think there's any comparison at all Wes, oem for all of those parts if it was my car. Small jobs I don't mind putting unbranded parts on if I'm skint, but only if I know I'll be replacing the part very soon with a good quality part.

Belts and water pumps though have to be the best quality I can find, I learnt that lesson the hard way with a focus that I bought cheap

Dallas · 12th August 2016, 20:36

I totally agree Tony.
Some jobs you can get away with using unbranded goods, but when it comes to the more important jobs, its pays to opt for the better quality product.

Tensioner: MG Rover VS Unbranded.
MG Rover seems to have a slightly larger bearing width and diameter within the wheel casing. Tighter smoother joints regarding the wheel casing. Seems better quality regarding material and mouldings. The overall moulding and appearance looks better. The MG Rover has a thinner washer compared to the unbranded part, not sure what to make of that one. The unbranded tensioner is heavier, weighs 586g, the MG Rover weighs 575g.

Some pics...

Left: Unbranded - Right: MG Rover.

MG Rover.

Unbranded.

murphyv310 · 12th August 2016, 21:09

Hi.
What an interesting thread Wes.
I am glad someone has taken the time to put up pictures of the difference between parts.
Now what I will say is that we mustn't get confused by what is OEM.
I have already explained the meaning of OEM in a different thread and I would like to think that most understand it's real meaning.
Basically it is what the manufacturer fitted at the time the "item" used during the time it was produced.
We are over ten years since the last ZT & 75 rolled off the production line when the company went bust. Under normal conditions a manufacturer has to supply original equipment spares for a set time, usually 7 years often more. MGR though as a company that went bust the end result would be different, remember when they went bust other companies were hit too.
As a personal thing I am wary of ad's that say OEM when it come to spares.
Lets not all condemn aftermarket parts, remember the MK1 mini, the inner driveshaft was a rubber based item, QH came up with a nylon part that was far better than the Austin/Morris offering.
On the same car the oil seal for the clutch input was a felt seal, the Deva conversion was a proper oil seal and cured the problem of oil on the clutch plate, again not a factory mod.

So there are good parts out there, don't discount quality after market parts but one thing to be careful is those that purport to be OEM, just look at eBay and take one item and see what you come up with, many will be different but a lot will say OEM.
The old adage comes to mind............ Buyer beware.

Edit............ I'm pretty sure MFL has a Dayco belt set. I will be halving its replacement time/mileage as I had a Dayco belt snap on a Fiat engine in under 15,000 miles, fortunately it was a non contact unit.

marinabrian · 12th August 2016, 21:35

This is what Rover would have fitted at the factory

LINK

You can click further and auxiliary belts AC belts etc are detailed

Brian

Arctic · 12th August 2016, 23:29

These are what I had fitted back in 2012, and will be fitting again in 2018 after 18,000 miles only but the 6yr time limit will be up, where as the time gone

also had new bolts fitted end caps etc

David Lawrence · 13th August 2016, 03:20

I started feeling slightly guilty that my 15 year old 190k miler still has all originals from 2001 fitted for all of those parts. Guess that says where my vote goes.

very interesting and useful thread this. More pictures please, they can be invaluable in decision making when the time does come.

genpk · 13th August 2016, 05:57

Unfortunately most MGR original parts would be at least 10 years old now I would think and given things like belts are made of materials that do degenerate over time, I think going down the Dayco or Gates path is probably a wise choice albeit I can see that MGR did definately have a decent handle on quality.
I have had all sorts of issues with water pumps ,bought expensive,middle and cheap priced pumps and have seen all of them fail at some point.
Never had any leaks from the rubber gasket area but always from the shaft seals.
The irony of it all is that no matter what brand the pump is or where it says its made,odds are that the shaft seal is probably all made in the same place,China!!!
I will point out that the original water pumps MGR used were good quality (not sure who the supplier was ) but replacement pumps never seem to last as long as the originals.
Re the other parts, its all a bit of a lottery,if you can find original beariings etc ,great, but as said there all getting thin on the ground.

12th August 2016, 20:16	#4
barney bear This is my second home rover 75 Connoiseur diesel called Rosey Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Preston Posts: 8,096 Thanks: 1,878 Thanked 2,001 Times in 1,424 Posts	I don't think there's any comparison at all Wes, oem for all of those parts if it was my car. Small jobs I don't mind putting unbranded parts on if I'm skint, but only if I know I'll be replacing the part very soon with a good quality part. Belts and water pumps though have to be the best quality I can find, I learnt that lesson the hard way with a focus that I bought cheap __________________ It is NEVER your fault, do not believe her when she says it is Real name Tony http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5l6mhpix.jpg

12th August 2016, 21:09	#6
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	Hi. What an interesting thread Wes. I am glad someone has taken the time to put up pictures of the difference between parts. Now what I will say is that we mustn't get confused by what is OEM. I have already explained the meaning of OEM in a different thread and I would like to think that most understand it's real meaning. Basically it is what the manufacturer fitted at the time the "item" used during the time it was produced. We are over ten years since the last ZT & 75 rolled off the production line when the company went bust. Under normal conditions a manufacturer has to supply original equipment spares for a set time, usually 7 years often more. MGR though as a company that went bust the end result would be different, remember when they went bust other companies were hit too. As a personal thing I am wary of ad's that say OEM when it come to spares. Lets not all condemn aftermarket parts, remember the MK1 mini, the inner driveshaft was a rubber based item, QH came up with a nylon part that was far better than the Austin/Morris offering. On the same car the oil seal for the clutch input was a felt seal, the Deva conversion was a proper oil seal and cured the problem of oil on the clutch plate, again not a factory mod. So there are good parts out there, don't discount quality after market parts but one thing to be careful is those that purport to be OEM, just look at eBay and take one item and see what you come up with, many will be different but a lot will say OEM. The old adage comes to mind............ Buyer beware. Edit............ I'm pretty sure MFL has a Dayco belt set. I will be halving its replacement time/mileage as I had a Dayco belt snap on a Fiat engine in under 15,000 miles, fortunately it was a non contact unit. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ Last edited by murphyv310; 15th August 2016 at 19:35.. Reason: Error, Not Unipart but QH for the mini inner driveshaft UJ.

12th August 2016, 21:35	#7
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	This is what Rover would have fitted at the factory LINK You can click further and auxiliary belts AC belts etc are detailed Brian Last edited by marinabrian; 12th August 2016 at 21:37..

13th August 2016, 03:20	#9
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	I started feeling slightly guilty that my 15 year old 190k miler still has all originals from 2001 fitted for all of those parts. Guess that says where my vote goes. very interesting and useful thread this. More pictures please, they can be invaluable in decision making when the time does come.

13th August 2016, 05:57	#10
genpk Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA Posts: 1,664 Thanks: 3 Thanked 461 Times in 299 Posts	Unfortunately most MGR original parts would be at least 10 years old now I would think and given things like belts are made of materials that do degenerate over time, I think going down the Dayco or Gates path is probably a wise choice albeit I can see that MGR did definately have a decent handle on quality. I have had all sorts of issues with water pumps ,bought expensive,middle and cheap priced pumps and have seen all of them fail at some point. Never had any leaks from the rubber gasket area but always from the shaft seals. The irony of it all is that no matter what brand the pump is or where it says its made,odds are that the shaft seal is probably all made in the same place,China!!! I will point out that the original water pumps MGR used were good quality (not sure who the supplier was ) but replacement pumps never seem to last as long as the originals. Re the other parts, its all a bit of a lottery,if you can find original beariings etc ,great, but as said there all getting thin on the ground.