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Old 3rd April 2019, 18:11   #1
norseman
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Hi folks, my first post will tempt many of you to move on as I'm sure the subject has been well aired, but for those who read on I thank you

I've been seriously thinking of a 75 purchase, so could I pose the following queries please:

Is there a noticeable difference in terms of everyday driving between the CDT & CDTi engines?

Do the reduced build quality (allegations) &/or the accountant's 'pruning' of the car's specification after the face-lift really detract from 75 ownership experience? I've read that the late cars are more like BMW's than Rovers.

nb: with reference to the 'members cars for sale' couldn't the adverts be removed post sale? It's frustrating to click on an ad. & read through all the details, only to find that the cars' been sold. Sorry
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Old 3rd April 2019, 18:28   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norseman View Post
Hi folks, my first post will tempt many of you to move on as I'm sure the subject has been well aired, but for those who read on I thank you

I've been seriously thinking of a 75 purchase, so could I pose the following queries please:

Is there a noticeable difference in terms of everyday driving between the CDT & CDTi engines?

Do the reduced build quality (allegations) &/or the accountant's 'pruning' of the car's specification after the face-lift really detract from 75 ownership experience? I've read that the late cars are more like BMW's than Rovers.

nb: with reference to the 'members cars for sale' couldn't the adverts be removed post sale? It's frustrating to click on an ad. & read through all the details, only to find that the cars' been sold. Sorry



With respect to the engine, the CDT/CDTi differenttaion is not worth worrying about - you should however get the 131BHP variant as opposed to 113 BHP as the difference in power does have a real effect on drivability.

In my opinion you should aim to purchase the newest car possible so that you have the pleasure of owning it as long as possible.

Also, IMO, there is no difference in driving experience between pre and post project drive cars. Later cars will not necessarily have all the toys that earlier cars had but, again in my opinion, no amount of toys are ever going to compensate for a car where the fundamentals are not spot on. This is what I would always focus on as opposed to the toys or the colour of the interior etc.
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Old 3rd April 2019, 20:24   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norseman View Post
Do the reduced build quality (allegations) &/or the accountant's 'pruning' of the car's specification after the face-lift really detract from 75 ownership experience? I've read that the late cars are more like BMW's than Rovers.
The build quality argument continues to rage on but the general consensus is that early Longbridge-built cars (Y-02 reg) are the best built, followed by the Cowley-built cars (S-X reg) then mk2 cars (04 on), with later mk1s being the worst of the lot as a result of the numerous Project Drive deletions and de-speccing. With the age of these cars now it is the condition of the individual car that is more relevant than its build date however.

The equipment tally on the cars didn't change hugely until the car was facelifted and trim levels realigned. No version of the 75 is basic, apart from the rare Classic model with its steel wheels, manual rear windows and lack of air con. Most 75s out there are higher spec variants anyway and owners were often keen to add extras when buying the cars new. Anything a car is missing can potentially be retrofitted.
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Old 3rd April 2019, 20:36   #4
Mike Noc
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With respect to the engine, the CDT/CDTi differenttaion is not worth worrying about - you should however get the 131BHP variant as opposed to 113 BHP as the difference in power does have a real effect on drivability.
It doesn't matter which diesel variant you get, they are all the same engine and the 113 can easily and cheaply be upgraded to 135 or 160.

Having owned both earlier and later models I much prefer the Mk1s, but each to their own.

As mentioned overall condition of the car you buy is paramount, and don't forget to check everything underneath - plenty of cars look nice and shiny above decks even though the subframes and rear sills are rusting.
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Old 3rd April 2019, 20:58   #5
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It's all been said above, my Facelift (04) drives and feels the same as my previous Mk1. It is noticeably less rusty underneath than the Mk1 though. Regarding power, the Facelift was 131/135 whatever and felt powerwise close to the remapped Mk1 I had. I still had it mapped to 160 for the driveability aspect. So yes, to summarise, get the newest one you can afford and check for tinworm, mileage isn't too important on the diesel but a low miler is a bonus.
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Old 3rd April 2019, 21:41   #6
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I disagree with buying the newest one you can afford.
In my view, it is best to get one in the best condition, irrespective of age.

My personal choice would be to find a good late Cowley or early Longbridge car.
I have owned both and were/are very good cars.

The later Longbridge car, that I have, has suffered more corrosion and is not in the same class as the earlier examples.
The refinement was definitely stripped out of these cars over the years under Project Drive IMHO.

I suppose everyone's experience is different.
This is just my experience.

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Old 4th April 2019, 18:32   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
It doesn't matter which diesel variant you get, they are all the same engine and the 113 can easily and cheaply be upgraded to 135 or 160.
As mentioned overall condition of the car you buy is paramount, and don't forget to check everything underneath - plenty of cars look nice and shiny above decks even though the subframes and rear sills are rusting.
Many thanks to all for the prompt replies.
With regard to your post Mike, does an engine upgrade (esp. all the way to 160) introduce NVH or longevity issues, especially as we are talking auto's here.

Also I've read that the cars can lose their celebrated ride comfort due to tired suspension, at what sort of mileage (average) is this likely to become an issue for a perspective purchaser ?
.
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Old 4th April 2019, 18:52   #8
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I bought a 2004 diesel manual gearbox saloon with 148,000 miles on it in November of last year. It is remarkably rust free but has been well serviced all it's life.
A new clutch master cylinder, two new front springs and a drivers door lock cable are the only things needed other than oil and filters change and two new front tyres in the last 8,000 miles that I have done in the last 4 months or so.
It rides very nicely, with no squeaks or rattles with only wear on the drivers seat bolster and the steering wheel to show for the mileage on it.
Buy on condition and service history rather than age or mileage. You will not be disappointed.
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Old 4th April 2019, 19:24   #9
Mike Noc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norseman View Post
Many thanks to all for the prompt replies.
With regard to your post Mike, does an engine upgrade (esp. all the way to 160) introduce NVH or longevity issues, especially as we are talking auto's here.

Also I've read that the cars can lose their celebrated ride comfort due to tired suspension, at what sort of mileage (average) is this likely to become an issue for a perspective purchaser ?
.
No issues with either NVH or longevity with the 160 upgrade have been reported on the forum and some members have been running this state of tune for a fair few years now. The 135 tune came direct from the factory, so no worries there either.

Regarding the ride comfort then yes it does deteriorate over the years, but depends on many factors. Best to try a few car and see what takes your fancy.





.

Last edited by Mike Noc; 4th April 2019 at 19:30..
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Old 5th April 2019, 07:55   #10
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Finally folks, bearing in mind that the manuf. of these cars ceased 13 years ago, what's the current situation for replacement parts? Consumables such as tyres, exhausts, brake pads etc. are presumably no problem, but what about mechanical & electrical components specific to the model?
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