Jacking up the Tourer car - Page 3

pugcrew · 10th July 2016, 20:43

Having only recently got my car I get confused when people refer to front and rear central jacking points.

Can anyone post some nice clear photos to show these?

klarzy · 10th July 2016, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by pugcrew

Having only recently got my car I get confused when people refer to front and rear central jacking points.

Can anyone post some nice clear photos to show these?

there are no central jacking points, they are mounts for the towing loops and are not designed to take vertical loads, however many do use them... its up to you

HarryM1BYT · 11th July 2016, 07:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by pugcrew

Having only recently got my car I get confused when people refer to front and rear central jacking points.

Can anyone post some nice clear photos to show these?

Look under the front and the rear, dead centre. At the rear there is a loop of thick metal rod, with a reinforcing bracket under it, located under the rear of the wheel well.

At the front is a similar steel rod, but it is squared off. If you have an engine under cover fitted, it will poke out below it.

Both are the obvious low points in the area.

Despite Klarzy saying they are not recognised jacking points - I have seen them marked as jacking points on official Rover documentation.

If you have a tow bracket (I do), the bracket uses the above item as one of the attachment strong points. When jacking the rear up, I therefore instead jack it under the towing bracket.

Duotone · 11th July 2016, 07:45

Dave T

HarryM1BYT · 11th July 2016, 10:19

Thanks Dave, I knew I had seen it somewhere.

I do think the - 'Warning - Always chock the wheels when jacking' needs to be applied with a bit of common sense though....

Remember an hydraulic jack passes through an arc as it lifts the car, I like to ensure that the car can follow that arc, rather than the jack cup being pulled out from under the car. Like most mechanics - when jacking on level ground, I release the handbrake, out of gear and allow the car to move with the jack. I only chock the wheels once raised in the air.

Arctic · 11th July 2016, 10:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duotone

Dave T

As above always used these jacking points, even so make sure of safety at all times, work along side someone if possible, use in conjunction with axle stands, and as suggested in the thread somewhere if you have the wheel off also put this under the sill after the axle stand, use solid wood sections under the axle stand 12" x 12" should be ok and either use a rubber pad on the trolley jack head or a square piece of wood.

pugcrew · 11th July 2016, 20:34

Thanks for all the replys and good safety advice. The drawings make it very clear.

Getting dark now so will have a look for these tomorrow.

HarryM1BYT · 11th July 2016, 21:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by pugcrew

Thanks for all the replys and good safety advice. The drawings make it very clear.

Getting dark now so will have a look for these tomorrow.

I sprayed my front centre lifting point white, so it was easier to spot in the dark

Avulon · 12th July 2016, 20:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

You do Neil. My thirty year old bog standard Halfords trolley jack will do it!

Simon

Yes as Duotone as posted the handbook pages - Note that the front and rear points are for hydraulic jacks only (e.g. a trolley jack, or maybe a good bottle jack, I know which is safest and it has wheels!) My standard sized Halfords trolley jack lifts the front high enough for stands to be placed under the reinforced sill points with no problems. A 'mini' or low level jack probably won't.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

Even with the standard jack wound up to its max(never recommended!), is just too short for the first pin hold in my axle stands. So I just use the stands without them raised. which is fine for wheel work anyway. I try to keep the jack would just under tension on the sill, as well as wheels under the sills, belt and braces.

I've tried the central point, but do not have faith in my 2 tonne jack, always felt its seals were about to give way. With the jacking pads, I have always feared them being ripped up with my trolley jack, or slipping back and damaging the sill. So I always use the sub frame for axle stands and trolley jack.

Only ever use the standard jack for jacking only one wheel clear off the ground for wheel changes, this is all they are designed for. N.B the owners handook specifically cautions against either jacking or using stands under any part of the car except for the 4 sill points and the front and rear central points: While it may to you feel more secure you are in much greater danger of damaging the subframe/suspension by doing this; although with caution and a good appreciation of engineering forces I'm sure there's possibly some points that may work with care.

Quote:

Originally Posted by klarzy

there are no central jacking points, they are mounts for the towing loops and are not designed to take vertical loads, however many do use them... its up to you

As Duotone has posted the relevant owners handbook pages you can now be sure that they are designed specifically with jacking in mind,

and we can correct this incorrect notion.

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pugcrew · 13th July 2016, 19:47

Only just had the chance to have a good look in the daylight today. I have found the two points as shown in the extract from the handbook. I must admit that the rear one doesn't look that substantial. There is a metal 'ring' which doesn't strike me as being that strong and it is fixed to the spare wheel tray rather that a part of the chassis or subframe as I would have expected.

Just to be clear my car is a ZTT 260. I understand that there are some fundamental alterations to the chassis for the 260s so does the handbook that has been posted apply to these as well?

Sorry to labour the point but I really want to be safe and don't want to damage anything.

11th July 2016, 10:19	#25
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	Thanks Dave, I knew I had seen it somewhere. I do think the - 'Warning - Always chock the wheels when jacking' needs to be applied with a bit of common sense though.... Remember an hydraulic jack passes through an arc as it lifts the car, I like to ensure that the car can follow that arc, rather than the jack cup being pulled out from under the car. Like most mechanics - when jacking on level ground, I release the handbrake, out of gear and allow the car to move with the jack. I only chock the wheels once raised in the air. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 11th July 2016 at 10:21..

10th July 2016, 20:43	#21
pugcrew Avid contributor none Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Seaford Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Having only recently got my car I get confused when people refer to front and rear central jacking points. Can anyone post some nice clear photos to show these?

11th July 2016, 07:45	#24
Duotone This is my second home 75 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Leeds Posts: 8,432 Thanks: 176 Thanked 907 Times in 716 Posts	Dave T

11th July 2016, 20:34	#27
pugcrew Avid contributor none Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Seaford Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Thanks for all the replys and good safety advice. The drawings make it very clear. Getting dark now so will have a look for these tomorrow.

13th July 2016, 19:47	#30
pugcrew Avid contributor none Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Seaford Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Only just had the chance to have a good look in the daylight today. I have found the two points as shown in the extract from the handbook. I must admit that the rear one doesn't look that substantial. There is a metal 'ring' which doesn't strike me as being that strong and it is fixed to the spare wheel tray rather that a part of the chassis or subframe as I would have expected. Just to be clear my car is a ZTT 260. I understand that there are some fundamental alterations to the chassis for the 260s so does the handbook that has been posted apply to these as well? Sorry to labour the point but I really want to be safe and don't want to damage anything.