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Old 2nd September 2019, 16:47   #1
david75
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Default Help getting a new headlining into the car - saloon

You may have seen from my other thread (here: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=298359 ) that I am replacing the headlining on my 75 saloon. This has thrown up a number of problems, not least because I discovered that my sunroof was an aftermarket one and the old headlining had been bodged to fit around it (all described in the other thread).

Anyway I am now at the stage where the old headlining is out, the sunroof has been taken out, overhauled and put back in, I have sourced a replacement headlining (second hand but in fairly good condition, no sagging)… and so the next thing is to get the new headlining back into the car.

The old adage 'refitting is the reverse of removal' does not really apply because the old headlining was scrap and therefore it was very bent as a result of getting it out.

Other threads suggest that this is 'fiddly but do-able', with various suggestions about it going in through a rear door, a front door, drivers side, passenger side, etc, but when I came to do this I could not see how to do it - the headlining just seems too wide, and of course I don't want to risk bending the headlining.

Measurement-wise it does appear that the width of the headlining would fit across the longer diagonal of a front door (ie from the footwell corner to the upper seatbelt mount on the B-pillar), but on the passenger side the glove box is then in the way, and in the drivers side the steering wheel.

Before I try anything more drastic (eg I have seen a thread that says take all the seats out, and I certainly don't want to remove the front or rear screen!), I would appreciate any enlightenment from members who have successfully got a headlining through a door. A good description or even photos would be great!

By the way, if it makes any difference, my front seats are electric and the rear seat back is fixed as opposed to fold-down-able

thank you.
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Old 2nd September 2019, 17:36   #2
joel antonio
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Hi David:

This is what I did, (time-consuming but no harm inflicted to the headlining). I did remove both front seats and the bench from the back seat, also the headrest from the back. The in and out way was from the driver's rear door. Very important is that it is not 2 handjob you need an assistant to help you.

Kind regards

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Old 2nd September 2019, 18:06   #3
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Thinking out loud here and following on from Joel's answer.

Could you take out the squab from the back seat - the bit you perch one's posterior on.

And then recline both front seats to make them flat as possible. Saves having to take seats outs?
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Old 2nd September 2019, 19:10   #4
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Are you sure the seat back is fixed? 90% are folding. Have you felt between the seat base and backrest for the 2 pull cords?
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Old 2nd September 2019, 23:28   #5
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I got the headlining out through the back door with the front seats laid back as flat as they'll go. All headrests came out too but the rear seat stayed in. The headlining needed flexing slightly to get it round the corner and into the doorway but it came out undamaged.

If it came out this way, it must go back in again.
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Old 3rd September 2019, 12:03   #6
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I had this dilemma in the last week. I had produced a semi-custom roof lining, but unfortunately the result was short lived. This required another one to be procured from a yard. Collecting a saloon roof lining in a saloon can be quite interesting. Unfortunately the owner of the yard has refused anybody performing any type of repairs on his premises, but happily laughed witnessing my struggles deploying such item into the car. Took two attempts and had to refit all headrests for the lining to sit on top of them to allow the drive home.
I think the art of fitting into the car is to be well organised and prepped prior to the exercise taking place, all a-b-&c trims removed, ideally at least one of the front seats removed and the rest folded down. Rear bench base removed and rear view mirror removed and steering wheel at it's lowest setting.
This would allow the best possible chance, but I was able to gently bend sections one by one to allow it to go in. This worked really well but also try your best to keep bends to a minimum, and dont keep a bend in situ for long as it will allow a permanent crease or possible breakage of the structure underneath the lining. Another aspect to allow for is time, rush it and it will go wrong, so my fitting time with all trims and fittings etc with seats not removed to allow fitting was about 2 hours.

Mine fitted perfectly and shows no signs of injury or evidence of replacement !
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Old 3rd September 2019, 16:17   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzublu View Post
Are you sure the seat back is fixed? 90% are folding. Have you felt between the seat base and backrest for the 2 pull cords?
Yes the rear seat backrest does appear to be fixed on my car
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Old 3rd September 2019, 16:22   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHeinz57 View Post
I had this dilemma in the last week. I had produced a semi-custom roof lining, but unfortunately the result was short lived. This required another one to be procured from a yard. Collecting a saloon roof lining in a saloon can be quite interesting. Unfortunately the owner of the yard has refused anybody performing any type of repairs on his premises, but happily laughed witnessing my struggles deploying such item into the car. Took two attempts and had to refit all headrests for the lining to sit on top of them to allow the drive home.
I think the art of fitting into the car is to be well organised and prepped prior to the exercise taking place, all a-b-&c trims removed, ideally at least one of the front seats removed and the rest folded down. Rear bench base removed and rear view mirror removed and steering wheel at it's lowest setting.
This would allow the best possible chance, but I was able to gently bend sections one by one to allow it to go in. This worked really well but also try your best to keep bends to a minimum, and dont keep a bend in situ for long as it will allow a permanent crease or possible breakage of the structure underneath the lining. Another aspect to allow for is time, rush it and it will go wrong, so my fitting time with all trims and fittings etc with seats not removed to allow fitting was about 2 hours.

Mine fitted perfectly and shows no signs of injury or evidence of replacement !
Thank you for that.

You said "ideally at least one of the front seats removed", but also that "...my fitting time with all trims and fittings etc with seats not removed....", so I take it that you did it with the front seats in situ and just the base of the back seat removed?

Which door did you go in via?

And which end of the headlining did you feed in first (ie front or rear)?

thank you
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Old 3rd September 2019, 19:00   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david75 View Post
Thank you for that.

You said "ideally at least one of the front seats removed", but also that "...my fitting time with all trims and fittings etc with seats not removed....", so I take it that you did it with the front seats in situ and just the base of the back seat removed?

Which door did you go in via?

And which end of the headlining did you feed in first (ie front or rear)?

thank you
Hi, the rear seat base was out already as was the outgoing roof lining.
The n/s/r door was the one used for the exercise. the orientation of getting it through was the fitted position with one corner slightly manipulated (O/S/F) piece that is covered by the "A" pillar trim top edge, and a slight bow in the centre of the roof lining as it's centre point got to the door upper aperture
with a sharp intake of breath ! This not the first time doing this, so each time, it becomes easier, but technique is everything as much as time fitting everything back to where it should be.
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Old 3rd September 2019, 19:03   #10
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If you fancied a day out to Northants, we could go off to a yard, and sort yours out between us if that helps !
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