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Old 21st June 2019, 12:50   #1
Blink
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Question Rear spring isolators

Has anyone bothered to replace the rubber isolators when fitting new rear springs? They seem fairly bullet-proof to me so I'm not sure it's worth the £50-ish.

Nos. 2 & 3 - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001551
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Old 21st June 2019, 12:57   #2
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The spring I got from Rimmers a few months ago had them already on the spring. But I'm going to be cleaning the old ones and reusing them on future springs.
Only problem is they're a bit of a mare to get off. Especially when the spring breaks leaving about four inches still attached. Plenty of washing up liquid and a sturdy screwdriver and the bits eventually come out
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Old 21st June 2019, 14:22   #3
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It's odd that some of them come with isolators and some don't .

Mine (RKB101420 / RB / Pink) isn't even listed on Rimmers now so I've bought a pair of KYB's instead. I'll wait & see if I can get the old isolators off without wrecking them before I buy new ones.

I think the original MGR springs tended to snap because of the way they were cut - i.e. tapered instead of 90 degrees.
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Old 21st June 2019, 19:18   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
It's odd that some of them come with isolators and some don't .

Mine (RKB101420 / RB / Pink) isn't even listed on Rimmers now so I've bought a pair of KYB's instead. I'll wait & see if I can get the old isolators off without wrecking them before I buy new ones.

I think the original MGR springs tended to snap because of the way they were cut - i.e. tapered instead of 90 degrees.
The rear springs sometimes snap due to poor fitting of the isolators, blocking the water ways on the rear arms causing water to collect and rot the rear arms, you will find they tend to snap at the very bottom at the tip where the water has collected and caused the protective coating to come away
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Old 22nd June 2019, 08:26   #5
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I refit the old ones which were still supple and intact as my car is low mileage. As Mickey says, just make sure that the slots line up with the drain holes when refitting or you will get pooling, resulting in premature tinworm on the arms.
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Old 22nd June 2019, 08:35   #6
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I re used my old ones as there were no new to be had except from Rimmers on certain spring configurations............unfortunately not the right ones for my car. There were a couple of second hand ones on ebay but looked no better than the ones I took off.

Used marinabrians method of replacement which was really easy and allowed cleaning and painting / rust proofing of all the subframe assembly.

As has been said, watch those drain holes.
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Old 22nd June 2019, 14:47   #7
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Thanks chaps.

What's the betting I forget to line up the drain holes!

I can't find marinabrian's method - anyone got a link?

Actually, looking at this pic, maybe it's the isolators themselves that cause the springs to snap - i.e. they're too hard and are forcing the bottom coil to try and uncoil itself against the rest of the spring, causing a stress fracture. When mine snapped (both of them) the break was exactly where the spring starts to wrap round the isolator.

Here's the isolator on its own - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RKB100970

Last edited by Blink; 22nd June 2019 at 14:53..
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Old 22nd June 2019, 15:51   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Thanks chaps.

What's the betting I forget to line up the drain holes!

I can't find marinabrian's method - anyone got a link?

Actually, looking at this pic, maybe it's the isolators themselves that cause the springs to snap - i.e. they're too hard and are forcing the bottom coil to try and uncoil itself against the rest of the spring, causing a stress fracture. When mine snapped (both of them) the break was exactly where the spring starts to wrap round the isolator.

Here's the isolator on its own - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RKB100970
Hopefully this is what you’re looking for,


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You don't need to remove the ARB to replace the rear springs

Simply slacken slightly the subframe bolts opposite side to the spring you're changing, and remove the ones on the side you're changing the spring on, along with the bottom damper mount.

Once you done that, refit the subframe bolts to that side and remove the opposite side.

Once the new springs are fitted, torque up the subframe bolts to the specified torque and job done

Beats frabbing about with drop links and rusted fasteners any day of the week.....20 minutes to do both rear springs

Brian
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Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.
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Old 23rd June 2019, 11:20   #9
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Quote:
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Hopefully this is what you’re looking for...
That must be it. It comes up several times if you do a search for 'frabbing'. Here's one of them - link.

(Copyright Brian )

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