The dangers of Caravaning brought home. - Page 2

cb750chris · 9th September 2014, 12:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

The breakaway would have applied the brakes and prevented it moving far. I always put the breakaway on first, then finally hitch up on the ball.

Own goal by the sounds of it.

Surely this depends on the length of the break-away cable. If the van has rolled backwards down the hill, could the brake have been applied by the break-away cable (as it should do), but then the momentum of the van has over-ridden the brake.
Effectivelly engaing the reverse mechanism - as the car would when reversing - when the wheel rotates backwards, after a certain force, the shoes sort of (deliberately) misalign to reduce the braking force to allow reversing - sorry badly described, but if you are familiar with the system, you will understand what I am saying.

DragonFly · 9th September 2014, 13:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb750chris

Surely this depends on the length of the break-away cable. If the van has rolled backwards down the hill, could the brake have been applied by the break-away cable (as it should do), but then the momentum of the van has over-ridden the brake.
Effectivelly engaing the reverse mechanism - as the car would when reversing - when the wheel rotates backwards, after a certain force, the shoes sort of (deliberately) misalign to reduce the braking force to allow reversing - sorry badly described, but if you are familiar with the system, you will understand what I am saying.

Forgive me if I'm wrong on this, but isn't the 'reversing brake release' dependant on pressure being applied (by the towing vehicle) to the hitch?

ie When you reverse with the caravan (or large trailer) hitched on, the vehicle forces the hitch inwards on the towed item, and that action releases the brakes.

Assuming that the brakes were working properly anyway of course.

cb750chris · 9th September 2014, 14:06

As far as I was understood it, the pressure on the hitch applied the brake, so when the trailer started to catch up with the tow vehicle (ie the tow vehicle applying pressure to the hitch) the brakes were applied. The brake away cable complimented this by acting at the opposite end of a pivot to apply the brakes in much the same way. When reversing, the brakes were in effect put on by the tow vehicle (by the hitch being pressed) then after a certain pressure being applied against the normal direction of travel the brake shoes in effect moved to reduce the braking pressure and allow reversing
See here for a slightly better description
http://www.knottuk.com/fileadmin/Kno...ver_Brakes.pdf
OR here:
http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/ha...m-handbook.pdf

DragonFly · 9th September 2014, 14:17

I was getting my pulling, pushing and auto braking mixed up then

cb750chris · 9th September 2014, 14:28

Even having read all that, I still can't see how it actually works on the hubs I have got - I know it does, but I can't see how.

DragonFly · 9th September 2014, 14:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb750chris

Even having read all that, I still can't see how it actually works on the hubs I have got - I know it does, but I can't see how.

I don't know either, which probably means....

It's witchcraft

Mikeal1 · 14th October 2014, 07:14

Ok, this has me thinking now. I am relying on my dad to show me how to properly hitch the caravan to the car.
Is there a certain sequence I should follow? The bloke I bought it off showed me how when he delivered the van, but he showed me very quickly

HarryM1BYT · 14th October 2014, 07:47

In no particular order...

Lower onto the ball, you will need to lift a lever until it drops into place.

Attach break away cable, preferably around something solid on the car, the tow bar, or the least preferred - method around the tow ball.

Plug the electricals in.

Lower the jockey wheel, so as to try to lift the van and the car - that proves the caravan is properly hooked on, if the car is lifted up too. - That is very important.

Finally release the caravan handbrake and check all of the caravan's light are working.

reworht · 14th October 2014, 10:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

In no particular order...

Lower onto the ball, you will need to lift a lever until it drops into place.

Attach break away cable, preferably around something solid on the car, the tow bar, or the least preferred - method around the tow ball.

Plug the electricals in.

Lower the jockey wheel, so as to try to lift the van and the car - that proves the caravan is properly hooked on, if the car is lifted up too. - That is very important.

Finally release the caravan handbrake and check all of the caravan's light are working.

Excellent advice - which I usually follow to the letter (and in the same order funnily enough). Can I also suggest you don't have a conversation with your next door neighbour whilst doing the above

Suffice to say that I now know that my breakaway cable works perfectly, and the brakes on the 'van are evenly adjusted at both sides

Cost? - new jockey wheel - serves me right

DMGRS · 14th October 2014, 13:54

Well, it seems like we have a lot of caravanners on here - next year when I've saved up, I know where to come for advice!

The guy in the OP is lucky it didn't hit another van - that'd be a very expensive (and potentially deadly) mess to sort.

9th September 2014, 14:06	#13
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	As far as I was understood it, the pressure on the hitch applied the brake, so when the trailer started to catch up with the tow vehicle (ie the tow vehicle applying pressure to the hitch) the brakes were applied. The brake away cable complimented this by acting at the opposite end of a pivot to apply the brakes in much the same way. When reversing, the brakes were in effect put on by the tow vehicle (by the hitch being pressed) then after a certain pressure being applied against the normal direction of travel the brake shoes in effect moved to reduce the braking pressure and allow reversing See here for a slightly better description http://www.knottuk.com/fileadmin/Kno...ver_Brakes.pdf OR here: http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/ha...m-handbook.pdf Last edited by cb750chris; 9th September 2014 at 14:08..

14th October 2014, 07:14	#17
Mikeal1 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Club SE CDT Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Albrighton Posts: 1,153 Thanks: 183 Thanked 149 Times in 96 Posts	Ok, this has me thinking now. I am relying on my dad to show me how to properly hitch the caravan to the car. Is there a certain sequence I should follow? The bloke I bought it off showed me how when he delivered the van, but he showed me very quickly __________________ Mods Done so far: Plenum spy hole mod, bonnet mod, handbrake mod. New Smiley plate with club website address. LED bulbs fitted throughout, inc glove box and Numberplate, Flipkey, rear parking sensors, rear offside cubby hole cover, 2x extra LED ambient lights in tourer boot, ultimate remote, walnut gear knob, Walnut steering wheel, in-line stat, illuminated sun visors, load cover with dog guard, extra aux and USB sockets in armrest.

14th October 2014, 07:47	#18
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	In no particular order... Lower onto the ball, you will need to lift a lever until it drops into place. Attach break away cable, preferably around something solid on the car, the tow bar, or the least preferred - method around the tow ball. Plug the electricals in. Lower the jockey wheel, so as to try to lift the van and the car - that proves the caravan is properly hooked on, if the car is lifted up too. - That is very important. Finally release the caravan handbrake and check all of the caravan's light are working. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

14th October 2014, 13:54	#20
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	Well, it seems like we have a lot of caravanners on here - next year when I've saved up, I know where to come for advice! The guy in the OP is lucky it didn't hit another van - that'd be a very expensive (and potentially deadly) mess to sort. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

9th September 2014, 14:17	#14
DragonFly Loves to post Non 75 Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Bristol Posts: 471 Thanks: 56 Thanked 189 Times in 93 Posts	I was getting my pulling, pushing and auto braking mixed up then

9th September 2014, 14:28	#15
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	Even having read all that, I still can't see how it actually works on the hubs I have got - I know it does, but I can't see how.