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20th July 2014, 17:14 | #21 |
I really should get out more.......
PRE LAUNCH 75/ZT 190/XJ 550 Join Date: Jan 2007
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if you need help just call me i can sort all clutches
andy |
13th August 2014, 21:36 | #22 |
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Well after getting fed up with twice weekly bleeds, Andy is booked to come down to sunny Chelmsford on 24th August. There is no evidence of a master cylinder leak. It is suspected the slave is on its way out; the clutch pedal is pretty stiff to operate.
I am looking forward to getting the old girl leak free and finally reinstating the trim panel below the steering wheel which I have left off to reduce dismantling for the twice weekly bleed.
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2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red |
14th August 2014, 08:27 | #23 |
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Hope you get things sorted.. Paul.
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29th April 2018, 22:34 | #24 |
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Just shy of 4 years since the clutch and slave replacement I seem to be back to square one again, with the bite point around 1" from the floor on the pedal.
The master doesn't appear to be leaking. I had recently sprung a diesel leak from the non return valve on the low pressure side, so with all the diesel sitting in the undertray it is hard to see if the slave is leaking again. I have dipped the pot on the master and it is dry. I will need to bleed the system to ensure I keep the car on the road, but I sadly suspect another clutch and slave is on the cards. If so I will get the master replaced at the same time in case worn flakes of rubber from the master have been contaminating the slave. Anyone had a new slave/clutch take an earlier bath?
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2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red |
30th April 2018, 09:09 | #25 | |
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Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Quote:
You are right to consider replacing the master this time round so that you end up with clean system that should last for years. A lot of the clutch issues after work is done on 75/ZTs is down to poor fitting technique and/or poor quality parts. There has been much discussion of these issues on the forum over the years. I think the current consensus is that to get a good quality clutch change, you should use the LUK RepSet Pro clutch kit, or the Borg and Beck clutch kit with an LUK or AP/Delphi slave cylinder. The metal slaves have some issues, so have some doubts hanging over them. For the master, I would recommend only a genuine AP/Rover master - this costs 150 pounds or so in RHD form, but you can get an LHD one for about 50 pounds and swap the pipework over. Regarding fitting technique, the subframe must be removed to allow proper access to the gearbox/clutch assembly, with proper cleaning/alignment of the bellhousing/clutch assembly. Keep us updated Pete |
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30th April 2018, 21:05 | #26 |
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Thanks Pete. I was changing fluid twice weekly up to three times a week immediately prior to the last slave cylinder and clutch change so the fluid would have been ok.
I don't recall the parts fitted; these were supplied and fitted together. All has been good for almost 4 years and just over 20,000 miles. I just hope the next installation can outlast this one!
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2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red |
30th April 2018, 21:22 | #27 |
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As Pete says I recon its old debris, even regular flushing can miss the crud. Of course its possible that it's simply fresh deterioration of the master seal.
As I type this my cdti tourer is chocked up as I'm in the middle of dropping the box to replace the slave and master. I've got an almost full history of the car and it looks like the master is original - 218,000 miles 04 plate. I'd guess that your clutch plate is ok, just the cylinders kernacked. I'm glad to see that after 4 years you've stuck with the car.
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Previously owned..Austin Mini Countryman, Austin 1100 VDP, Princess 2200HL (x2), Ambassador VDP, TR7, Triumph Stag, Rover 820, Rover 216 GSi, Rover 420D, Rover 600 Si, Rover 600 GSi, Montego GSi, Rover 216 cabriolet, Jaguar XJ6 Gold, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Tourer CDTi (x3), Rover 75 CDT x 2, Rover 75 Connie V6, Rover 45. Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 x 2, Jeep Chrokee KK Plus a few other foreign ones I'm too embarrassed to mention.. |
30th April 2018, 22:24 | #28 |
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Hi Dave,
I will want the clutch and driven plate replaced as well. OK it is only 4 years old but I figured it best to change all components given the labour cost is the main element of the total job cost. The clutch always has had a slight judder on bite in first gear so it might be an opportunity to put this right at the same time. I just need to find someone in Essex who won't lift my leg cost-wise and will supply the parts Pete lists above.
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2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red |
1st May 2018, 08:54 | #29 | |
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There was an MG Rover specialist on the outskirts of Basildon - Kevin (can't remember his surname), who did some work on my old 75 when my sister-in-law had it, but I cannot find his details. Pete |
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1st May 2018, 09:16 | #30 | |
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Kevin is at Wickford. Thoroughly recommended. Old school mechanic. Knows these cars inside and out. http://mgroverrepaircentre.co.uk/contacts.html. He'll fit any parts you give him and knows the proper parts to use with experience. Cheers Andrew |
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