Bushes

hog-man80 · 11th May 2018, 07:36

I am going to have a go at my control arm bushes, but reading one or two threads on the job, is the original bush, fixed to the control arm differently to the replacement, as people talk about having to cut it off, but the replacement pushes on with fairy liquid? Also is there an optimum position to have the control arm in, during the procedure, or is it levered about to suit. I will be doing this on the floor, with axle stands.

Regards Paul.

RoverP480 · 11th May 2018, 07:48

Personally I never use washing up liquid to lubricate fitting bushes as it contains salt . I use soapy water using hand soap.

EastPete · 11th May 2018, 08:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoverP480

Personally I never use washing up liquid to lubricate fitting bushes as it contains salt . I use soapy water using hand soap.

Silicone grease or KY jelly are good for helping the bushes onto the arms.
Pete

chris75 · 11th May 2018, 10:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by hog-man80

I am going to have a go at my control arm bushes, but reading one or two threads on the job, is the original bush, fixed to the control arm differently to the replacement, as people talk about having to cut it off, but the replacement pushes on with fairy liquid? Also is there an optimum position to have the control arm in, during the procedure, or is it levered about to suit. I will be doing this on the floor, with axle stands.

Regards Paul.

There is no difference in fixing , but the old one will have "bonded" somewhat to the arm over time and it is not as easy to get at it to pull off as it is to push a new one on . They usually have to be driven off , working alternately from top and bottom , and may have already broken into inner and outer pieces ! Don't use a very sharp tool as your drift as it can groove the arm ; a blunt cold chisel , knackered screwdriver or similar will work .
Washing-up liquid as a lubricant worked fine for me and the new bush went on easier than expected using just heavy hand pressure . It will be necessary to lever the arm around as you proceed , and I used a piece of 2" x 1"wood about 18" long as my lever .
I put the rear of the car up on my ramps and lifted the front onto axle stands; this lifted the car well up and gave me much appreciated room to work in . I removed the wheels and the undertray .

marinabrian · 11th May 2018, 17:37

I have explored every different method of doing this job and using the following method with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive.

Tools Needed
18mm combination spanner
'Large' ring spanner
18mm flexible head ratchet spanner
10" Shifting spanner
Lump hammer
Piece of timber (as a wedge)

The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase.

Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush.

Leave it all to soak.

Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar

Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers

Now undo the rear bolt.

The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe.

The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm.

Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc.

Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe.

Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded

Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt.

Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing.

This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole.

Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight.

Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can.

Brian

hog-man80 · 13th May 2018, 17:47

I would like to thank everybody who advised me on the bush replacement job.
All went well, I bought a flex head spanner, and used Motoquip bushes, just hope they are good quality.
Regards Paul.

11th May 2018, 07:36	#1
hog-man80 Regular poster Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2014 Location: Beccles Posts: 46 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Bushes I am going to have a go at my control arm bushes, but reading one or two threads on the job, is the original bush, fixed to the control arm differently to the replacement, as people talk about having to cut it off, but the replacement pushes on with fairy liquid? Also is there an optimum position to have the control arm in, during the procedure, or is it levered about to suit. I will be doing this on the floor, with axle stands. Regards Paul.

11th May 2018, 07:48	#2
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	Personally I never use washing up liquid to lubricate fitting bushes as it contains salt . I use soapy water using hand soap.

11th May 2018, 17:37	#5
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	I have explored every different method of doing this job and using the following method with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive. Tools Needed 18mm combination spanner 'Large' ring spanner 18mm flexible head ratchet spanner 10" Shifting spanner Lump hammer Piece of timber (as a wedge) The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase. Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush. Leave it all to soak. Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers Now undo the rear bolt. The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe. The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm. Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc. Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe. Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt. Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing. This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole. Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight. Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can. Brian

13th May 2018, 17:47	#6
hog-man80 Regular poster Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2014 Location: Beccles Posts: 46 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I would like to thank everybody who advised me on the bush replacement job. All went well, I bought a flex head spanner, and used Motoquip bushes, just hope they are good quality. Regards Paul.