Clutch issues

Rsnail · 25th July 2018, 05:34

Hello guys, noticed an issue with the cluch for my V6 2l Rover, (this happens only at high speeds, over 100mph as I noticed, on the highway for example, and only after driving more than 1 hour approximately at these speeds): after driving in these conditions, I can get the car harder and harder in gear until the point that I can't get it in gear anymore after 2-3 hours driving on the highway. And then, to get it working and engaging again, I have to either stop the car and wait about 1 hour or drive the car at low speeds and then it gets better. Anyone has an idea what it could be and why it behaves like that? Last year I replaced the slave cylinder, filled up the master cylinder, and the mechanic said that the rest of the clutch parts are fine.

EastPete · 25th July 2018, 08:34

Sounds like the clutch driven plate may be seizing on the splines of the input shaft after a long hot run - this can occur at high temperatures. This issue is usually due to inadequate lubrication of the input shaft when a new clutch is fitted - the shaft splines should be smeared with spline grease or moly grease when refitting the gearbox after work on the clutch.

Pete

Rsnail · 25th July 2018, 10:45

Can we also open the clutch and grease the splines if there isn't anything else to replace? I mean it would be useless to replace parts if not needed but I still want to fix this issue.

EastPete · 25th July 2018, 11:53

What make of slave cylinder was fitted ? If the slave has overheated due to lack of lubrication of the input shaft, it may be sensible to fit a new one as it may be compromised. I would also replace the clutch at the same time with quality items such as LUK or Borg and Beck. Most of the cost/time with clutch work is the gearbox removal/replacement, so it is usually false economy not to replace all the clutch components (slave, pressure and driven plate) at the same time.

I no longer believe in any sort of short cuts or bodges on my cars - I am currently doing the bodywork on my MGB, and on removing the outer sills, discovered that the last 'professional' sill repairs involved just slapping an outer cover sill on, leaving the heavily rusted inner sill and sill floors in place, making the car structurally unsound. The inner sills were almost non-existent ! Do it properly, or don't bother at all !

Pete

Rsnail · 25th July 2018, 19:03

I really have no idea what make was used when replacing the slave. Would you recommend any? And also, what make can I buy for the rest of the clutch parts in order to get reliable parts but not really that pricey, my budget is kind of tight now for the job

25th July 2018, 05:34	#1
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Clutch issues Hello guys, noticed an issue with the cluch for my V6 2l Rover, (this happens only at high speeds, over 100mph as I noticed, on the highway for example, and only after driving more than 1 hour approximately at these speeds): after driving in these conditions, I can get the car harder and harder in gear until the point that I can't get it in gear anymore after 2-3 hours driving on the highway. And then, to get it working and engaging again, I have to either stop the car and wait about 1 hour or drive the car at low speeds and then it gets better. Anyone has an idea what it could be and why it behaves like that? Last year I replaced the slave cylinder, filled up the master cylinder, and the mechanic said that the rest of the clutch parts are fine.

25th July 2018, 08:34	#2
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Sounds like the clutch driven plate may be seizing on the splines of the input shaft after a long hot run - this can occur at high temperatures. This issue is usually due to inadequate lubrication of the input shaft when a new clutch is fitted - the shaft splines should be smeared with spline grease or moly grease when refitting the gearbox after work on the clutch. Pete

25th July 2018, 10:45	#3
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Can we also open the clutch and grease the splines if there isn't anything else to replace? I mean it would be useless to replace parts if not needed but I still want to fix this issue.

25th July 2018, 11:53	#4
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	What make of slave cylinder was fitted ? If the slave has overheated due to lack of lubrication of the input shaft, it may be sensible to fit a new one as it may be compromised. I would also replace the clutch at the same time with quality items such as LUK or Borg and Beck. Most of the cost/time with clutch work is the gearbox removal/replacement, so it is usually false economy not to replace all the clutch components (slave, pressure and driven plate) at the same time. I no longer believe in any sort of short cuts or bodges on my cars - I am currently doing the bodywork on my MGB, and on removing the outer sills, discovered that the last 'professional' sill repairs involved just slapping an outer cover sill on, leaving the heavily rusted inner sill and sill floors in place, making the car structurally unsound. The inner sills were almost non-existent ! Do it properly, or don't bother at all ! Pete

25th July 2018, 19:03	#5
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	I really have no idea what make was used when replacing the slave. Would you recommend any? And also, what make can I buy for the rest of the clutch parts in order to get reliable parts but not really that pricey, my budget is kind of tight now for the job