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Old 11th September 2018, 21:00   #41
minty2
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Hi David.
Here are your photo's below Arctic.
Arctic, my sills were in worse condition than that and I also had a nasty dent, which as it turns out, had made the problem a lot worse on one side, taken out. The shop I've taken the car to does both metalwork and painting and while certainly more expensive, is highly trustworthy. He's also fairly local, which is easier for me. Thanks anyway to you both!
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Old 11th September 2018, 21:06   #42
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It's completely normal for water to enter the internal cavities of a car bodyshell (there are simply too many access points for manufacturers to be able to seal everything completely). Couple that to the condensation that will naturally occur on the inside of panels in the winter and you can see it's inevitable that damp will get inside and run to the bottom, due to gravity.

There has been plenty of discussion about why the rear sills on 75/ZT rot out and having completed quite extensive repairs previously on my Tourer, my own thoughts are as follows:

Firstly, there is a drain hole at the rear of the sill, so as long as this isn't blocked, water should eventually escape. However, just ahead of this is the internal jacking bracket. Surprisingly, this is welded to the vertical part of the inner sill, but NOT to the flat lower section of the outer sill. Here, it just rests against it. This leaves a very small gap between the two (the outer sill being far thinner metal), but it's enough space for the water to collect between the two panels and not dry out.

Secondly, if the jacking pads are not fitted, the remaining (quite large) hole that's left in the sill, will allow water and mud that's thrown up to collect inside the internal jacking bracket. Unfortunately, the edges of this are turned up to increase it's strength but this then means that anything that's wet and corrosive will collect inside and can't get out.

Lastly, the rear section of sill (unlike the front jacking point, although these are starting to go on older 75's nowadays) are connected directly to the rear quarter panel. Any moisture that collects inside this panel (from trim clips, condensation, etc.) and is over the front half of the rear wheelarch, HAS to run into the rear of the sill before it can escape out onto the road - hence the back section gets more than it's fair share of moisture to deal with.

Personally, I'm a fan of leaving the jacking pads fitted to keep the worst of the muck spray out, but leaving them out in the hot summer months to allow warmer air to circulate and dry things out as. There are also various holes where wax/oil can be inserted - behind the arch liner, on the inner sill and from behind the sill chrome strip, so any thin rust prevention fluid that'll squeeze itself under the jacking bracket has got to be good news if the sills are dried out properly first.

It's always a shame to hear of good cars possibly being scrapped just because this small area is starting to rust. Younger members of this forum will not be aware of corrosion in the 70's and 80's, when you could end up spending your weekends welding on complete length sills (not just 12" ) and continuing on to add rear wheelarches, spare wheel wells, door pillar bottoms, inner door frames and skins, front suspension top mounts, front panels and even footwells that had tin plate pop-riveted on to cover the holes !

Just ask Oxford Blue about a certain green Renault 12 estate...
I remember rust well,, I ran a few alfa suds in my time. One time when jacking the car, the sill just crumbled and the jack went right into the car between the door and sill.
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Old 12th September 2018, 12:18   #43
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I took my FL 2 for it's mot at 11.30 am today passed again no advisories nine in a row now and no advisories well chuffed.

I did mention the MGZT and how the sill had corrosion round the jacking point, he did no seem concerned, then went on to state because it is not in an area classed as dangerous ie the suspension, seat anchor area & so on he said it would not be a fail.
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Old 12th September 2018, 12:33   #44
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I remember rust well,, I ran a few alfa suds in my time. One time when jacking the car, the sill just crumbled and the jack went right into the car between the door and sill.
This is what greeted me a few weeks back when I cut off the outer sill of my MGB. I have just finished the welding- complete floor pan edge, sill floor (castle) rail, inner sill , outer sill, central cross member end, and rear wheel arch front section all repaired or replaced. I have now got to start on the other side ! The car looked clean and solid from the outside apart from a few rust bubbles starting to come through at the end of the NS sill.
I have painted all of the inner surfaces with Bondaprimer and chassis paint, and when the painting is finished, I will blast Dinitrol 3125 into all the enclosed sill sections.

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Old 12th September 2018, 12:37   #45
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Afternoon,
It is interesting to note that one MOT inspector has a different view to another as my 75 failed the MOT on the corroded sill. Never mind it needed to be repaired.
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Old 12th September 2018, 14:36   #46
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Afternoon,
It is interesting to note that one MOT inspector has a different view to another as my 75 failed the MOT on the corroded sill. Never mind it needed to be repaired.
Hi David.
Yes I was quite surprised when he stated it to me, and he a MOT tester that is thorough, he also lets you stand next to the car while he is testing it, there is a viewing lane in which you stand behind a barrier.

I think I will still take it down to the garage where he tests and get him to have a look in real life, see if his mind changes
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Old 16th December 2018, 17:24   #47
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Saw Tom on Monday after reading about him here and having been told about him by Phil (thanks).

He is a really nice guy (as his dad who was also around) and did a fabulous job rebuilding the rear end of the drivers side sill which had corroded.

Highly recommended!
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Old 16th December 2018, 17:33   #48
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Of: http://www.tjhobbs.com

Saw Tom on Monday after reading about him here and having been told about him by Phil (thanks).

He is a really nice guy (as his dad who was also around) and did a fabulous job rebuilding the rear end of the drivers side sill which had corroded.

Highly recommended!
I can only fully endorse your comments regarding Tom's work, had my nearside will jacking point repaired by him. Excellent job done and totally recommended.

Martyn
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Old 17th December 2018, 01:41   #49
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Hi David.
Yes I was quite surprised when he stated it to me, and he a MOT tester that is thorough, he also lets you stand next to the car while he is testing it, there is a viewing lane in which you stand behind a barrier.

I think I will still take it down to the garage where he tests and get him to have a look in real life, see if his mind changes
Quick update on this took car to MOT station one look at it and decided yes it would be a fail with the plates as they are pop riveted.

The repair as to be a continuous weld, for it to pass a MOT.
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Old 17th December 2018, 02:59   #50
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I reckon it is in the manufacture and design. My tourer has never been used in winter, sits in the garage from November till end of March. Hole in the sill on one side discovered at MOT a few weeks ago, other side solid. Same sill, same place seems to be a theme. Almost new when I bought it, only used for pleasure in nice weather. Chap who welded it said the inside of the sills have a good coat of Waxoil, so if it is going to go it is going to go.
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