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26th April 2019, 20:57 | #21 |
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Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jul 2015
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I'm thinking of ceremoniously crushing the thing because I only work part-time so don't really have the dosh to keep throwing at it for an expensive part that should last a hell of a lot longer. It was a supposedly quality part (luk) by a supposedly qualified person but it still hasn't lasted The master wasn't changed has the garage told me it didn't need it but it looks like that could be a factor? who knows? so much contradictory experiences. I'm guessing the manufacturer is having a laugh at our expense.
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26th April 2019, 21:07 | #22 |
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Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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No need to change the master if it is working OK, but worth flushing it through with fresh fluid beforehand so you don't risk contaminating the new slave cylinder.
Better still strip it down and clean it then refill with fresh fluid. |
27th April 2019, 05:48 | #23 |
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I’m having mine done at the weekend so this post isn’t great reading.
I’ve bought the kit from Mat of Borg & Beck clutch with LUK slave as that was the most common advice and the lack of trust in most of the other parts that are available. My car is on 145,000 so if the originals lasted that long the replacements should fare pretty well hopefully. Last edited by Canonite; 27th April 2019 at 12:04.. |
27th April 2019, 06:10 | #24 |
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My slave and clutch was replaced by Andy Willi almost 5 years/32k miles ago. The master failed last year and I replaced this with a DMGRS LUK item.
The clutch is juddery on lift off. I am about to replace the bottom mount to eliminate any excessive engine movement. I have noted the release bearing is starting to sing when the clutch pedal is depressed. I have a feel that the current slave and master are entering the autumn period of their lives!
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2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red |
27th April 2019, 08:01 | #25 | |
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Quote:
Thank you - this is the way to describe what is being fitted. |
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27th April 2019, 08:52 | #26 | |
Posted a thing or two
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Quote:
Pete Last edited by EastPete; 27th April 2019 at 09:25.. |
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27th April 2019, 09:23 | #27 |
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Interesting read. When my clutch goes, I'll fit the cheapest kit I can find for science's sake.
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27th April 2019, 09:38 | #28 | |
I really should get out more.......
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Quote:
The first thing to do is contact the garage who carried out the work, and get their response, no clutch should fail this prematurely, unless it was fitted badly or the quality of the materials was poor, or the driver was not using it correctly!. Have you got a receipt for the work carried out, itemising the work carried out, if so take a look at it this will give you a clue as to quality of materials used, and very importantly EXACTLY what work was carried out and what was fitted, replaced etc. You need to have this conversation with the garage. If they are being helpful fine if not then go to Trading Standards for advice. Good luck. PS you need to find out exactly what has failed, which component/s!. |
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27th April 2019, 09:51 | #29 |
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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27th April 2019, 10:15 | #30 |
Gets stuck in
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We've had a lot of hype about various components from new manufacturers over the years that I have been a member and none of them have lived up to the hype or the performance of the original part.
I only ever entertain fitting an Luk clutch kit to my Rovers. Mine were genuine LUK and they failed just out of warrantee, were fitted by probably the trader with the best reputation in this club. LUK do supply variable quality parts as other members and traders can verify. And I chose them because in my working past my company made parts for them and I regularly visited their plants increasing my personal disappointment in the products. |
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