Clutch Master cylinder bleeding question

[chris75]

Came across this old thread during a search ;
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/n...eply&p=2557898 It seems to say that you can bleed just the master cylinder by splitting the pipe coupling . Is that right ? I thought the two halves of the coupling were self -sealing when separated ? Or is there a trick involved ?
I'm interested because I am about to fit one of DMGRS' LHD master cylinders which will require the pipe changing over and then bleeding .Possibly , this would allow me to assemble the new setup and use an eezibleed system on the bench instead of in the car , and then install it like a prefilled system ……….

[T-Cut]

I suppose in your example, you could purge it in two haves, so the result is like fitting separate, pre-filled master and slave units. The 'quick' coupling on all OEM units is designed to connect as a hydraulic lock, but I can't vouch for the couplings used on non-OEM (like Tazu). Someone will confirm that though.

TC

[chris75]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I suppose in your example, you could purge it in two haves, so the result is like fitting separate, pre-filled master and slave units. The 'quick' coupling on all OEM units is designed to connect as a hydraulic lock, but I can't vouch for the couplings used on non-OEM (like Tazu). Someone will confirm that though.

TC

I just fancy the convenience of doing the bleeding on the bench rather than in the car , since I will be assembling the new cylinder and pipe off the car anyway The clutch and slave were replaced not long ago so I believe I will have clean fluid in the " slave " half .
But does the coupler open up under pressure to allow the fluid to bleed out ? If not , I don't see how I could bleed it as a "half" system
The new master is an OE AP item .

[EastPete]

Use a blunt screwdriver to push in the white plastic membrane on the coupler - this will allow fluid to be bled through the master on the bench. You could use an eezibleed to do this, then have a 'pre-filled' master to fit to the car. If you are fitting an LHD master to a RHD car however, you swap the pipework 'in situ', in other words leave the RHD pipework in place, and fit the master 'body' in the footwell to the old pipework. You could then bleed the master through to the coupler in the car before hooking up the slave, but I am not sure there is much point in doing this - you may as well bleed the whole system through to the slave bleed nipple, and have fresh fluid in the whole system

Pete

[chris75]

Originally Posted by EastPete

If you are fitting an LHD master to a RHD car however, you swap the pipework 'in situ', in other words leave the RHD pipework in place, and fit the master 'body' in the footwell to the old pipework.
Pete

Can you get a bit of "slack" in the pipework to pull the cylinder out into the footwell ? With it hard up against the bulkhead I can see very little , never mind extracting roll pins etc

[chris75]

Ok , well I 've answered my own question now I couldn't get enough room to work so I eventually managed to split the coupling using an old 5/8 spanner , opened out just a bit on my bench grinder , to compress the collar and lever the coupling apart . I had made a special tool for this , as shown elsewhere in the forum , but I couldn't get the thing apart ! I was then able to wriggle the pipe through the bulkheads and pull the cylinder out far enough for me to tap out the roll-pin in relative comfort
That's enough for today