Wire off rear screen - help please - Page 4

Blink · 23rd April 2020, 13:47

Yet more problems!

This is the tab back in position on the HRW (with wand still in situ).

The problem is I can't test the tab repair because now the aerial lead connector won't lock into the socket on the aerial amp - it just springs straight out again.

Here's the Rover 75's black amp (XUC100741) next to a red Land Rover amp (AMR6287) - the aerial lead connector does lock into the Land Rover amp properly.

The used black amp was bought from a club member here a few days ago - the red amp is new old stock.

Since the same lead locks into the red amp properly but doesn't lock into the black one, I suspect there's a problem with the black amp - the red one has tangs, the black one doesn't.

Has anyone got a black amp (XUC100741) that has tangs?

Below: the red amp has tangs so the aerial lead will lock.

Below: this black amp has no tangs so the aerial lead will not lock.

NB. I can't use the red amp because it has a flying lead to connect to the HRW, instead of the 75's tab lead going to a 3 pin socket. This is the connector on the red amp's flying lead.

Blink · 24th April 2020, 11:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Simon, the four pips will be more than sufficient to make the electrical connection, and I can tell you having done this last week it works

Brian

You were right Brian, it works!

I've just tested the radio* and the FM reception is perfect, no crackle or hiss at all. The HRW also works, or at least the orange light on its dash switch comes on. *(with aerial lead temporarily gaffer taped into the amp to get round the post 31 problem)

I left the Araldite Rapid overnight (with the magic wand still pressing the tab against the screen) and it's set rock solid. I'd be very surprised if it ever came loose again.

So now I'm back to where I started - hunting for the source of my ridiculously heavy rear screen condensation. I'm wondering if these things might be the culprit.

sewerman · 25th April 2020, 11:57

Well I've followed the instructions , tomorrow will see if it has worked.

Fingers crossed

Scott

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sewerman · 26th April 2020, 09:52

Mmm well don't think the aridite had mixed properly as it was like rubber the tab was lose and fell off. Ho hum order some more and try again.

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Blink · 26th April 2020, 10:18

Not enough hardener perhaps? If you're using the double syringe version, remember the two tubes don't deliver equal amounts. I had to adjust mine to solve that.

sewerman · 26th April 2020, 10:21

Could be was hard to see what was coming out the syringe tbh might just get the individual tubes and self mix .

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Blink · 26th April 2020, 10:38

The other thing I did was to test the tab pip contact first, i.e. without any glue. Press the pips against the screen and see if radio reception goes from none/crackly to perfect.

sewerman · 3rd May 2020, 12:53

It just the HRW wire to the bottom section on mine.

So an update 2nd attempt.

Wedged the tab on place and got my trusty tandy multimeter out , continuity tested the screen strip either side of the tab to ring end of the wire, all good.
Emptied all of the syringe out and gave it a mix then applied a small blob between the pips and wedged the tab back in place. Continuity checked again before the glue went off again all good. Came back after an hour and no movement of the tab so left it overnight.
Removed the wedge and started the car and hit the demist button wandered to the back and felt the screen, both top and bottom sections warm to the touch, result.
Refit the trim panel and thought I'll just check again and now only the top wire of the bottom section was getting hot. Off with the trim panel out with the meter and continuity from the window stip either side to the earthing bolt.
Starting to rain so trim panel on and come in for a cuppa.

So getting there slowly

Scott

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

sewerman · 16th May 2020, 13:21

Further update

Tried covering the tab and strip with rear windscreen repair paint, still no joy.

So stripped 100mm of wire back gaffer taped it to the strip, other end to the earth bolt and success 🙂🙂.

Ok not the best solution but the HRW now works .

Pic below is of the trial set up used black tape cut to width for the final set up and crimped ring connector on the bolt.

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Blink · 16th May 2020, 13:50

I'm not sure gaffer tape will stay on after it's been repeatedly heated and cooled (boiled by summer sun then frozen in winter). The backing adhesive usually dries up in those conditions.

23rd April 2020, 13:47	#31
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Another problem !!! Yet more problems! This is the tab back in position on the HRW (with wand still in situ). The problem is I can't test the tab repair because now the aerial lead connector won't lock into the socket on the aerial amp - it just springs straight out again. Here's the Rover 75's black amp (XUC100741) next to a red Land Rover amp (AMR6287) - the aerial lead connector does lock into the Land Rover amp properly. The used black amp was bought from a club member here a few days ago - the red amp is new old stock. Since the same lead locks into the red amp properly but doesn't lock into the black one, I suspect there's a problem with the black amp - the red one has tangs, the black one doesn't. Has anyone got a black amp (XUC100741) that has tangs? Below: the red amp has tangs so the aerial lead will lock. Below: this black amp has no tangs so the aerial lead will not lock. NB. I can't use the red amp because it has a flying lead to connect to the HRW, instead of the 75's tab lead going to a 3 pin socket. This is the connector on the red amp's flying lead. Last edited by Blink; 23rd April 2020 at 14:29..

25th April 2020, 11:57	#33
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 632 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	Well I've followed the instructions , tomorrow will see if it has worked. Fingers crossed Scott Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

26th April 2020, 09:52	#34
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 632 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	Mmm well don't think the aridite had mixed properly as it was like rubber the tab was lose and fell off. Ho hum order some more and try again. Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

26th April 2020, 10:18	#35
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Not enough hardener perhaps? If you're using the double syringe version, remember the two tubes don't deliver equal amounts. I had to adjust mine to solve that.

26th April 2020, 10:21	#36
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 632 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	Could be was hard to see what was coming out the syringe tbh might just get the individual tubes and self mix . Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

26th April 2020, 10:38	#37
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	The other thing I did was to test the tab pip contact first, i.e. without any glue. Press the pips against the screen and see if radio reception goes from none/crackly to perfect.

3rd May 2020, 12:53	#38
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 632 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	It just the HRW wire to the bottom section on mine. So an update 2nd attempt. Wedged the tab on place and got my trusty tandy multimeter out , continuity tested the screen strip either side of the tab to ring end of the wire, all good. Emptied all of the syringe out and gave it a mix then applied a small blob between the pips and wedged the tab back in place. Continuity checked again before the glue went off again all good. Came back after an hour and no movement of the tab so left it overnight. Removed the wedge and started the car and hit the demist button wandered to the back and felt the screen, both top and bottom sections warm to the touch, result. Refit the trim panel and thought I'll just check again and now only the top wire of the bottom section was getting hot. Off with the trim panel out with the meter and continuity from the window stip either side to the earthing bolt. Starting to rain so trim panel on and come in for a cuppa. So getting there slowly Scott Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

16th May 2020, 13:21	#39
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 632 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	Further update Tried covering the tab and strip with rear windscreen repair paint, still no joy. So stripped 100mm of wire back gaffer taped it to the strip, other end to the earth bolt and success 🙂🙂. Ok not the best solution but the HRW now works . Pic below is of the trial set up used black tape cut to width for the final set up and crimped ring connector on the bolt. Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

16th May 2020, 13:50	#40
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	I'm not sure gaffer tape will stay on after it's been repeatedly heated and cooled (boiled by summer sun then frozen in winter). The backing adhesive usually dries up in those conditions.