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Old 1st September 2014, 15:10   #11
lightningmark
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No one has mentioned a possible cause which on mine was due to inner cv joint on nearside driveshaft
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Old 1st September 2014, 20:07   #12
Mike Noc
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Could be a hub running out of true. Get that and when you replace the discs it will be fine for a few thousand miles then the judder will return.

Discs and hubs are easily checked with a DTI (clock gauge).
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Old 20th April 2021, 01:21   #13
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Hi.. Just had the same problem and saw this post from 2014 and it's now April 2021..On reading the threads I thought I'd check out some of the advice before forking out for new discs and pads as I also had the same though.. warped disc..! I am very happy to report it was a rusted area on the two front discs. They looked OK on first glance but when I started with the wire wool I found an area that gave resistance to my polishing.. Then I used some medium rough sand paper and behold under the blackish sheen there was a rusted surface. It was where the disc pads were at rest when the car was laid up for about 3 - 4 months. Must of been put away wet.
Any way a happy ending thanks to this original post.
That's the really good thing about the club and these forums.. Thanks guys... Mogmike
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Old 20th April 2021, 20:46   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mogmike View Post
Hi.. Just had the same problem and saw this post from 2014 and it's now April 2021..On reading the threads I thought I'd check out some of the advice before forking out for new discs and pads as I also had the same though.. warped disc..! I am very happy to report it was a rusted area on the two front discs. They looked OK on first glance but when I started with the wire wool I found an area that gave resistance to my polishing.. Then I used some medium rough sand paper and behold under the blackish sheen there was a rusted surface. It was where the disc pads were at rest when the car was laid up for about 3 - 4 months. Must of been put away wet.
Any way a happy ending thanks to this original post.
That's the really good thing about the club and these forums.. Thanks guys... Mogmike
Recently my 75 tourer developed a brake judder, i decided to renew all the brake discs and fit new handbrake shoes at the same time as the handbrake had become very inefficient over the winter months.
I knew the front discs were worn, the rears looked reasonable until i removed them and turned them over, the rear faces were very badly corroded and the drum surface for the handbrake was totally shot (first photo shows the outside of one rear disc, the second shows the rear face). bizarrely i hadn't noticed any drop-off in efficiency though.
As it turned out the handbrake shoes were in surprisingly good shape given how bad the drum face was, I changed them anyway though - I now have a nice efficient handbrake.
This just goes to show that although a brake disc may look OK on the front face, the rear face may be quite a different story!
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Old 20th April 2021, 21:50   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Could be a hub running out of true. Get that and when you replace the discs it will be fine for a few thousand miles then the judder will return.

Discs and hubs are easily checked with a DTI (clock gauge).
As a newbie to this, I purchased a DTI gauge when replacing the rear discs on my ZT-T 190. The old discs will be OK to skim, but the run out on the new discs was worse than the old ones until I realised the true importance of thorough cleaning of the hub face and how the locating screw can pull the disc slightly off centric. On the V8 it was replacing the front shocks, springs and mounts which dramatically reduced vibration on braking.
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Old 21st April 2021, 13:07   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
As a newbie to this, I purchased a DTI gauge when replacing the rear discs on my ZT-T 190. The old discs will be OK to skim, but the run out on the new discs was worse than the old ones until I realised the true importance of thorough cleaning of the hub face and how the locating screw can pull the disc slightly off centric. On the V8 it was replacing the front shocks, springs and mounts which dramatically reduced vibration on braking.
There is only one way to check for run out accurately and it is as follows.

1) Meticulously clean all disc /hub contact areas back to clean metal.

2) Check hub for run out, bearing wear, end float.

3) Don't rely on the disc securing screw, bolt the disc firmly to the hub with the wheel nut /studs using spacers or washers where required, the thickness of the wheel rim bolt hole land, be aware that with drum in disc set ups, if a wheel bolt protrudes through the drum further than it should as you turn the disc it could damage the handbrake mechanism.

4) Finally if you are really pernickety and want exceptional accuracy, strap the hub at full lock to prevent any slight wear in the steering / suspension components affect the reading as you turn the disc.
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Old 21st April 2021, 13:14   #17
HarryM1BYT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsafly View Post
I knew the front discs were worn, the rears looked reasonable until i removed them and turned them over, the rear faces were very badly corroded and the drum surface for the handbrake was totally shot (first photo shows the outside of one rear disc, the second shows the rear face). bizarrely i hadn't noticed any drop-off in efficiency though.
To keep the drum in good condition and the handbrake working efficiently, the handbrake needs some regular use to stop the car whilst on the move. If the lever is just pulled up when the vehicle is stationary, rust will take hold on the inner surface.
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Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 21st April 2021, 21:34   #18
bsafly
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
To keep the drum in good condition and the handbrake working efficiently, the handbrake needs some regular use to stop the car whilst on the move. If the lever is just pulled up when the vehicle is stationary, rust will take hold on the inner surface.
I regularly lightly apply the handbrake whilst on the move, and always after traversing flooded roads (the 75 tourer is my daily car and all of my route to work and back is on country lanes, they have been flooded for days at a time several times this winter, never known them to be so bad).
I know travelling through floods is not generally advised but their is no other option to get to work, other than roads that are flood even worse!
As i travel them daily i know the roads very well, can anticipate where any flooding will be and can slow down in advance to tackle them at a sensible and safe speed.
The efficiency of the hand brake diminished over the winter so I guess even though I applied the handbrake after the last flooded section before my destination it wasn't sufficient to dry them out thoroughly before parking up (I don't leave the handbrake applied at home or work as the drive/carpark are both gravel and dead level).
One of the more severe floods from this winter in the picture below.
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Old 22nd April 2021, 11:56   #19
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Now that is a proper flood. Hopefully you didn't have to go through that one?
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Old 22nd April 2021, 13:10   #20
bsafly
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Now that is a proper flood. Hopefully you didn't have to go through that one?
Luckily i turn right just before that one and paddle around the edge!
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