Drop links: everyone's favourite!

[TourerSteve]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I don't like sawing through threaded rod but I may have to.

Simon

Easy answer Simon

Assemble with coppaslip , Can save a lot of blood sweat and tears at a later date

[SD1too]

How many obstacles can be placed in the path of fitting new drop links?

I have shortened threaded rod before and the accepted technique is to screw a nut fully over it before using the hacksaw. The nut is then retracted (with lubricant) to restore the damaged end of the sawn off thread. Simple, isn't it.

The MG Rover links I have now use an M9 thread. I have found it impossible to find an M9 nut from threaded fastener manufacturers. They consider it non-standard with no market. Edit: I later found out that it is an M10 thread with a non-standard nut size (15mm AF).

I'd be interested to hear of any successful solutions to this.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

How many obstacles can be placed in the path of fitting new drop links?

I have shortened threaded rod before and the accepted technique is to screw a nut fully over it before using the hacksaw. The nut is then retracted (with lubricant) to restore the damaged end of the sawn off thread. Simple, isn't it.

The MG Rover links I have now use an M9 thread. I have found it impossible to find an M9 nut from threaded fastener manufacturers. They consider it non-standard with no market.

I'd be interested to hear of any successful solutions to this.

Simon

Use the nut that came with it. I know it is likely to be a nyloc, but the damage should be minimal, and if tightened correctly, it is unlikely to come undone. If you have concerns, you could add a spring washer to it or some thread locker.

Alternatively, you can file down the thread after cutting to dress it.

This task really should only be taking 30 mins per side. Even with the obstacles. Is there additional issues around the fitting area that are causing a headache?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

Moog droplinks from euro car parts have the correct length threaded section ...

Thanks for this Stan. I contacted Moog but they couldn't confirm this or the depth of the spanner flats which, from the photographs, look to be the same 5mm. They referred me to a stockist who could measure for me. The only non-mail order stockist is Euro Car Parts and when I searched on their website there was no sign of Moog. Brilliant!

Originally Posted by clf

Use the nut that came with it. I know it is likely to be a nyloc, but the damage should be minimal ...

I don't want to do that Alan because (1) the nylon will be ruined re-cutting a thread and (2) the nut's integrity must not be compromised on a suspension part.

Originally Posted by clf

This task really should only be taking 30 mins per side. Even with the obstacles.

I'm not really bothered about time Alan, quality and long-term reliability are important to me.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I don't want to do that Alan because (1) the nylon will be ruined re-cutting a thread (2) the nut's integrity must not be compromised on a suspension part and (3) I won't be able to get a replacement.


I'm not really bothered about time Alan, quality and long-term reliability are important to me.

Simon

You can get plain M9 nuts, but are you sure they are M9? Another method for dressing them would be an appropriate die (M9 dies are also available too). But if you are reluctant to use the nut, then just manually dress the thread - it takes a minute or two.

The Nyloc will not be a factor in the long term reliability (and would be equally compromised if copper grease was on the threads - should only have it on the mated faces). The long term reliability will be on the ball joints themselves, to which I am guessing you will not add additional grease?

30 minutes prep (for additional greasing and painting) and 30 mins per side will still provide long term reliability. Time is not an issue for me either, but taking your time and doing it correctly, it will still take a short amount of time.

[COLVERT]

Forget the Nyloc nut.---Simply fit two nuts on the long thread and tighten one against the other to lock them.

Oh, and put that hack saw back in your tool box. ( And two nuts locked together will outlive any nyloc nut. --)--So simple, so easy.

[TourerSteve]

Originally Posted by clf

and would be equally compromised if copper grease was on the threads - should only have it on the mated faces

Agree The Nyloc will not be a factor in the long term reliability , the ball joints are the usual failure points
Also Copper grease will not compromise the long term reliability and is used on thread as well as mating faces .To get the correct torque value of copper slip you need to add it to the mating faces as well as the thread
For a non structural component like a drop links, provided the nuts are tightened within the elastic limits of the bolt the exact torque is not critical A decent spanner tighten will suffice
Fitting with copper grease ensure easier removal

[clf]

Originally Posted by TourerSteve

Agree The Nyloc will not be a factor in the long term reliability , the ball joints are the usual failure points
Also Copper grease will not compromise the long term reliability and is used on thread as well as mating faces .To get the correct torque value of copper slip you need to add it to the mating faces as well as the thread
For a non structural component like a drop links, provided the nuts are tightened within the elastic limits of the bolt the exact torque is not critical A decent spanner tighten will suffice
Fitting with copper grease ensure easier removal

The failure I was referring to the copper grease if used on the thread has the potential to damage the nyloc material over time - at least as much chance as the nyloc failing or the nut working loose, after using it a second time anyway.

Originally Posted by TourerSteve

For a non structural component like a drop links, provided the nuts are tightened within the elastic limits of the bolt the exact torque is not critical A decent spanner tighten will suffice

Exactly lol. Sometimes overthinking something can cause its own failures too.

[COLVERT]

I'm disappointed to see you all seeking complicated solutions when post 26 is the perfect answer.

Copper slip on this or that.---- Possible failure of the Nylock nut.---Torque values on something assembled dry, or lubricated.---


I feel you guys can't see the wood for the trees.---


But what do I know.-----

[clf]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I'm disappointed to see you all seeking complicated solutions when post 26 is the perfect answer.

Copper slip on this or that.---- Possible failure of the Nylock nut.---Torque values on something assembled dry, or lubricated.---


I feel you guys can't see the wood for the trees.---


But what do I know.-----

I am with you, but I do smear the face of the strut and the top of the nut after tightened with some copper grease.

I do cut the end off (it makes a huge difference when fitting), then fit them.

An hour later and I am washing my hands.