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Old 27th February 2021, 23:11   #121
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Well I found time to fit the new passenger door latch/actuator today. Not as bad as I feared, all because of so much helpful advice on the forums. Hopefully I left thanks as appropriate, but special mention to Arctic whose pics helped it make sense You absolutely have to remove the bottom bolt in the window track to finesse the old actuator out and the new in, but a little patience and it's not so bad. It was easier to fit the door button wire linkage to the actuator after the actuator was bolted in. Lastly I put a tie wrap around the plastic holder connecting the rod from the outer door handle to the actuator lever as recommended. I took the opportunity to silicone spray the window tracks a little too and can report the front passenger door is now working correctly. Yay!

So I turned my attention to the driver's door. I re-connected the new battery ( showing 13.14 volts after resting three days). I then locked the car with the fob while holding down the bonnet switch. Every door locked. I released the bonnet switch and the alarm was loud, silenced with the fob. I then unlocked with the fob, and only the driver's door didn't unlock. The actuator definitely moved, but not enough to unlock it. Tried the key manually, no luck. Tried the key manually while using the fob button and it popped open. So I locked the door, and was able to remove the key, and entered the car from the passenger side. I started the engine and she fired up very strongly, ran the engine for a minute and then turned the engine off. Locked the doors with the fob, then unlocked. The driver's door remained shut despite the actuator clearly moving up with definite decent amplitude. The interior handle wouldn't open the driver's door either, so I exited through the passenger side.
I'm starting to think I need a new driver's door actuator as well.
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Old 28th February 2021, 09:55   #122
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I'm starting to think I need a new driver's door actuator as well.
Now that you've done the passenger side Martin, it's certainly worth removing the driver's door lock assembly for inspection. Is it possible to connect it electrically when out of the door and observe what's happening?

Simon
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Old 28th February 2021, 12:37   #123
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MARTIN.---Silicone spray. Make sure you don't get any on the windows as it's almost impossible to remove and will give you a smeary view through the windows.---
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Old 28th February 2021, 19:20   #124
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MARTIN.---Silicone spray. Make sure you don't get any on the windows as it's almost impossible to remove and will give you a smeary view through the windows.---
I had the window fully up and only sprayed the runners lower down just in case
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Old 1st March 2021, 15:38   #125
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Now that you've done the passenger side Martin, it's certainly worth removing the driver's door lock assembly for inspection. Is it possible to connect it electrically when out of the door and observe what's happening?

Simon
I've splashed out for a new latch/actuator from Rimmers, plus a new 'dogbone' since it was a cheap addition. I'll report later on the result and how the old and the new compare. Hoping for the same result as on the passenger side. Still puzzled they should both fail at the same time after the battery going flat. Coincidence can certainly be really confusing.
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Old 5th March 2021, 22:54   #126
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Well the new driver's door latch actuator and dogbone arrived during the week, and I finally got a chance to look at them. I decided to play with the new latch before fitting.

It arrived in the latch open position, so I pushed the latch closed using a screwdriver to simulate the bar on the door frame. I then pulled the lever which attaches to the internal door handle cable and it unlatched. I locked it again with the screwdriver and pulled the other lever which attaches to the external door handle linkage. Again it unlatched. So then I closed the latch again with the screwdriver and pressed the lever which is linked to the interior card button. It now stayed locked and nothing I did would open it!

So I had to fit the new actuator to the door in the locked position and hope that power to the solenoid would release it when the fob was activated.
Fitting went quite smoothly ( my learning curve on the front passenger door). I kept the old dogbone since it didn't want to release from the key barrel drive box end.

With the new latch located properly on the original dogbone, I pressed the key fob a few times and the solenoid fired up and unlocked the latch. I shut the door and all buttons went down using the fob. I then unlocked with the fob, but the driver's door didn't unlock despite the actuator lifting the button, unless I give it an assist with the key in the barrel.
I seem to have fitted a new latch but still got the same problem I had with the old latch. I can't imagine I damaged the new latch by playing with it prior to fitting? Could it be that the key barrel mechanism is the problem and my old latch is fine? I still can't unlock using the key! The key will lock all four doors, but won't open anything manually. Surely it has to be the barrel mechanism?
So I popped out to check the V8 driver's door. 90degrees right locks, 90 degrees left unlocks. On the 190, 90 degrees right locks, but it won't rotate 90 degrees left, it only goes to 12 o'clock. Do I perhaps need a new barrel mechanism? or have I possibly screwed up the installation of the new actuator?
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Old 6th March 2021, 10:08   #127
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...........but it won't rotate 90 degrees left, it only goes to 12 o'clock............


Disconnect the barrel from the lock assembly then try barrel rotation, if the same happens as above, then the problem is with the barrel, door handle assembly, if not then you need to look further.


Doubtful that the new lock assembly is damaged though.
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Old 6th March 2021, 13:48   #128
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There is a cable that connects the barrel assy to the lock assy and it is a known weak spot and can snap, worth checking when you remove the handle /barrel assy from car
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Old 6th March 2021, 21:17   #129
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...........but it won't rotate 90 degrees left, it only goes to 12 o'clock............


Disconnect the barrel from the lock assembly then try barrel rotation, if the same happens as above, then the problem is with the barrel, door handle assembly, if not then you need to look further.


Doubtful that the new lock assembly is damaged though.
So following your suggestion Bill, I disconnected the dogbone and noticed that the barrel assembly would now rotate 90 degrees each way like it should. I noticed I still couldn't pull out the dogbone from the barrel mechanism, but it seemed to be rotating asymmetrically so I straightened it until it 'felt right'. I then made sure that the actuator was unlocked electronically by the fob, disconnected and removed it. I confirmed the manual operations on the bench were OK, but this time made sure the card button lever was in the 'up' position. It was then refitted on the door, carefully locating the dogbone. This seemed to work since the manual key operation would now go 90 degrees anti-clockwise from 12 o'clock as well clockwise 90 degrees for the first time. Much encouraged I tried it with power and found all operations to be normal after a minor adjustment to the outside door handle linkage.
Finally I disconnected the power to simulate a flat battery and the manual key unlocked the door as it should.
Whoop!Whoop!Whoop!
Last time I felt this pleased was when the boot in the 260 finally stopped collecting water
It's freezing outside tonight, so the door cards will have to wait.
I'll post a conclusion to this thread shortly.
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Old 7th March 2021, 09:53   #130
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... I still couldn't pull out the dogbone from the barrel mechanism, but it seemed to be rotating asymmetrically so I straightened it until it 'felt right'.
So the fault was a bent linkage ("dogbone"), have I got that right?
Well done Bill and Martin!

Simon
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