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8th October 2019, 21:21 | #11 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
As in my previous post. If the thread on those studs is still good DON'T try and remove them. You are just making un-necessary work for yourself. |
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9th October 2019, 08:42 | #12 |
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Mg zt-t Join Date: Jun 2019
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It was me trying to help who broke the stud
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9th October 2019, 09:32 | #13 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
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9th October 2019, 09:38 | #14 | |
This is my second home
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Quote:
If all else fails it will be a replacement part that will be needed. macafee2 |
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9th October 2019, 10:46 | #15 |
This is my second home
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The broken stud won't knock out as it is threaded.
However drilling it out shouldn't be too difficult. |
9th October 2019, 13:59 | #16 |
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9th October 2019, 15:07 | #17 | |
This is my second home
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Quote:
This is the stud and as there is a flange on top it wont unscrew and come downwards, the unit is still on the car. Splined fits with my thinking. Drilling may be best but will try heating and knocking out. if it get too stressed then I'll try drilling. macafee2 |
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9th October 2019, 19:32 | #18 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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Plenty of room for a nice Stainless Steel nut and bolt.--- Get that drill out and do the lot.--- |
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9th October 2019, 23:18 | #19 | |
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Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Looking at the photo Ian I'd hazard a guess that they have been pushed in from the top and are an interference fit and may well be splined. A combination of drilling out the centre, a bit of heat and a good seeing to with a lump hammer should get the broken one out. |
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10th October 2019, 17:04 | #20 | |
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Quote:
macafee2 |
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