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Old 28th December 2020, 22:15   #11
edwardmk
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Trying to use Tapatalk to send a photo. Not giving me an option to reduce photo size


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Old 28th December 2020, 22:17   #12
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The old spring seemed in very good nick considering fifteen years old as well as the top mount and the rubbers so I just cleaned them up.
Incidentally, what is the best cleaner for these rubber parts? Any problems giving a quick wipe with Plusgas or WD40?

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Old 28th December 2020, 22:18   #13
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Old 29th December 2020, 19:51   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
Kicking myself for not asking
Nooo!!!! A bit late now but always worth remembering that Rimmers will knock off a few ££ if you are spending a decent amount.
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Old 31st December 2020, 19:40   #15
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Found time to remove the driver side damper. Not failed yet but the important lower drain hole blocked with crud and lots of rust evident. Intended to re use the original springs and top mounts but the driver side top mount had failed and the spring looked a bit shabby. The spring isolator had also acquired a distorted shape so decided now to replace both top mounts, springs and spring isolators.
Called Rimmers and asked for a discount. Apparently I have to wait until Jan 2nd b4 ordering to get any discount. (Leverage clearly not so good as Trikey lol)
Used the time today for some rust removal from the top mount bases and painting. Probably take 2 days to cure anyway but the final result should be better.
Just a thought. Is it OK to re -use the six nylock nuts to secure the new top mounts or should I buy new ones too? Bilstein instructions say to never re -use old nylock nuts and check all dimensions of wheel alignment after fitting new dampers?




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Old 1st January 2021, 10:17   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
... is it OK to re -use the six nylock nuts to secure the new top mounts or should I buy new ones too? Bilstein instructions say to never re -use old nylock nuts and check all dimensions of wheel alignment after fitting new dampers?
...
The 3 mounting nuts should be replaced, but the new top mount may come with them anyway. The new damper should come with a new shaft top nut.
The only adjustment of the front suspension on a 260 is toe in/out. You are not touching any parts of the suspension which would be likely to affect that though. The camber/castor angles are not adjustable. There may be very, very slight camber change as a result of any play in the 2 lower damper mounting holes, but it would be insignificant and difficult to adjust without (say) buying eccentric bolts.

Torques:
Top Mounting 3 Nylocs : 22 Nm
Big nut on damper : 58 Nm (I use a 18mm crow's-foot for that one while someone else holds the shaft with a hex/Allen socket).
Lower 2 strut-bolts to knuckle : 155 Nm.

If you wish to check alignment:
Front wheel alignment - toe in - 6 minutes per side (12 total)
Front wheel camber - negative 1 degree 10 minutes
Check with Tyre pressures: Front 34 psi and Rear 36 psi for 18" wheels, or Front 34 psi and Rear 40 psi for 17" wheels, and with a full tank of fuel.

David

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Old 1st January 2021, 11:51   #17
edwardmk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeJ View Post
The 3 mounting nuts should be replaced, but the new top mount may come with them anyway. The new damper should come with a new shaft top nut.
The only adjustment of the front suspension on a 260 is toe in/out. You are not touching any parts of the suspension which would be likely to affect that though. The camber/castor angles are not adjustable. There may be very, very slight camber change as a result of any play in the 2 lower damper mounting holes, but it would be insignificant and difficult to adjust without (say) buying eccentric bolts.

Torques:
Top Mounting 3 Nylocs : 22 Nm
Big nut on damper : 58 Nm (I use a 18mm crow's-foot for that one while someone else holds the shaft with a hex/Allen socket).
Lower 2 strut-bolts to knuckle : 155 Nm.

If you wish to check alignment:
Front wheel alignment - toe in - 6 minutes per side (12 total)
Front wheel camber - negative 1 degree 10 minutes
Check with Tyre pressures Front 34 psi Rear 36 psi. and with a full tank of fuel.

David
Thanks for that most comprehensive reply David. Really helpful post for me. Happy New Year 2021
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Old 1st January 2021, 13:46   #18
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Thanks for that most comprehensive reply David. Really helpful post for me. Happy New Year 2021
Your welcome. It's all on the Two-Sixties though, the source of all 260 knowledge!

Happy New Year to you and yours too,

David
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Old 1st January 2021, 19:33   #19
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It might help to add a little more grease to the ball bearings in the rotary top mount.---


PS. Don't use WD 40 on rubber. It makes it swell up.
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Old 4th January 2021, 20:25   #20
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Last batch of parts ordered from Rimmers Sat am arrived Sunday pm. Well impressed, esp with a 12% discount. Got an early start and replaced dampers, springs, top mounts, spring isolators. Cleaned, serviced and checked the brakes and discs while at it.
Took me all day which isnít impressive but it was all new to me working on suspension. The new springs were slightly longer so putting them on was a challenge for me. Judicious use of a trolley jack solved that one. Some pics attached. Thanks for all the advice.


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