Sykes Flaremaster 2

[Blink]

Here's the flare & fitting side on.

1625


And here it is screwed fully home into the hose. Do the two parts look like they'll lock together when they're on the car or is the gap between them slightly too big? (it looks it to me)

1622

[T-Cut]

The basic shape of the flare is OK, but there seems to be more 'spare' pipe behind the compression button than I recall. Maybe it looks that way because of the scale of your images.(?) Did you use the flat end of the die to set the amount of pipe available for the swage? If the pipe protrudes too much, the 'shoulder' will be broader. I have a test flare in the garage which I'll compare with your photos.

The last photo looks about OK to me. The spring clip has a fair bit of tolerance in the compressed height. Obviously the size of the shoulder has an effect on this.

The grease should go on the curved surface around the 'pin' The pin is simply to keep everything centred by fitting into the bore of the pipe. You only need a smear using a cotton bud. Too much won't work any better. Wiping off any visible grease on or in the pipe using a clean tissue will be OK. Lubes for brake pipe flaring will be formulated for the application and will be / should be compatible with DOT fluids. You might soak a labbered up pipe in white spirit for an hour or two before cleaning as above and allowing to dry thoroughly. It's simpler to use just a smear.


EDIT:
This is the best I could do with my useless Fuji Finepix (not a patch on my old Canon Sureshot).




Anyway, there doesn't seem to be much difference in the volume of the flare. Maybe yours is slightly broader. That's what controls the height of the compression nut above the spring clip. As long as you used the flat positioning gizmo to set the pipe in the clamp, it has to be correct.

The bits you see here are the blanking plug I made for the ABS module to prevent fluid loss. The pipe stub was filled with epoxy resin. The red part is a strip of tape to stop it falling out of the nut.

TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

The basic shape of the flare is OK, but there seems to be more 'spare' pipe behind the compression button than I recall.

Which pic are you referring to here? (my pics are numbered).

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Maybe it looks that way because of the scale of your images.(?) Did you use the flat end of the die to set the amount of pipe available for the swage?

Yes, I did use the flat end of the die first - I tightened it as far as it'll go using a 16mm ratchet spanner. It was definitely doing its job because I could see it forcing the pipe out at the other end of the block.

Then I tightened the two 10mm bolts as far as they'd go before reversing the die and screwing it back in again with the 16mm ratchet and making the flare.

Originally Posted by T-Cut

If the pipe protrudes too much, the 'shoulder' will be broader. I have a test flare in the garage which I'll compare with your photos.

The last photo looks about OK to me. The spring clip has a fair bit of tolerance in the compressed height. Obviously the size of the shoulder has an effect on this.

When it stops raining(!) I'll try the tightening the test flare & hose onto the car's bracket with the spring clip in place. Maybe it's ok after all and I'm just being paranoid.

Originally Posted by T-Cut

The grease should go on the curved surface around the 'pin'

Do you mean B?

1645

Originally Posted by T-Cut

The pin is simply to keep everything centred by fitting into the bore of the pipe. You only need a smear using a cotton bud. Too much won't work any better. Wiping off any visible grease on or in the pipe using a clean tissue will be OK. Lubes for brake pipe flaring will be formulated for the application and will be / should be compatible with DOT fluids. You might soak a labbered up pipe in white spirit for an hour or two before cleaning as above and allowing to dry thoroughly. It's simpler to use just a smear.


EDIT:
This is the best I could do with my useless Fuji Finepix (not a patch on my old Canon Sureshot).




Anyway, there doesn't seem to be much difference in the volume of the flare. Maybe yours is slightly broader. That's what controls the height of the compression nut above the spring clip. As long as you used the flat positioning gizmo to set the pipe in the clamp, it has to be correct.

The bits you see here are the blanking plug I made for the ABS module to prevent fluid loss. The pipe stub was filled with epoxy resin. The red part is a strip of tape to stop it falling out of the nut.

TC

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

Which pic are you referring to here? (my pics are numbered).

Number 1625. It must be an illusion of scale. It looks broader than mine, but maybe yours hadn't been fully compressed into a joint.

Yes, I did use the flat end of the die first - I tightened it as far as it'll go using a 16mm ratchet spanner. It was definitely doing its job because I could see it forcing the pipe out at the other end of the block.
Then I tightened the two 10mm bolts as far as they'd go before reversing the die and screwing it back in again with the 16mm ratchet and making the flare.

All correct. Your flares will be correct.

Do you mean B?

Yes, in the dish around the central pin.

TC

[ADO282]

What type of pipe flaring tool is the one pictured?


The Flaremaster doesn't need the dies to be greased surely?


In regards to the length of the flare and it's overall effect on the clamping arrangement, as the U shaped clips are made of spring steel and they are designed to spread slightly upon being tightened and contained by the upturned tabs on the bracket that the flexible pipe passes through.


Any minor length differential is compensated for by the side of the spring clip with the hole which the union passes being slightly convex.


I certainly didn't experience any issues when I did the job.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Number 1625. It must be an illusion of scale. It looks broader than mine, but maybe yours hadn't been fully compressed into a joint.

Pic 1625 shows the flared joint after it's been wound into the flexi hose but only hand tightened (not tightened with a spanner) - that might explain why it looks slightly different to yours (i.e. broader behind the compression button).

Or - the lens I was using for pic 1625 might have been too far over to the left but tilted slightly right, which would have the effect of reducing the apparent width of the button and increasing the apparent width of the 'spare' pipe behind it. The lens is a long macro - it's heavy and very tricky to use accurately but it does give razor sharp pics when you get it right and it can see the tiniest detail.

Originally Posted by T-Cut

All correct. Your flares will be correct.

Yes, in the dish around the central pin.

TC

Ok, thanks TC.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by ADO282

What type of pipe flaring tool is the one pictured?. The Flaremaster doesn't need the dies to be greased surely?

Sorry Chris, I said earlier that it was the one mentioned in post 5 when it's actually the one mentioned in TC's post 8 - I've now corrected the typo! Anyway, it's this £39 tool. I'm not sure who really makes it - it pops up elsewhere under the names Sealey, Draper and Franklin!

I sent the Flaremaster back btw.

Originally Posted by ADO282

In regards to the length of the flare and it's overall effect on the clamping arrangement, as the U shaped clips are made of spring steel and they are designed to spread slightly upon being tightened and contained by the upturned tabs on the bracket that the flexible pipe passes through.

Any minor length differential is compensated for by the side of the spring clip with the hole which the union passes being slightly convex.

I certainly didn't experience any issues when I did the job.

Yes, I'd forgotten about the spring clips when I wrote post 31 - I think they'll easily soak up any excess length differential (if there is any excess in the first place - it might just be my paranoia!).

[roverbarmy]

When I've made brake pipes in the past, I've used brake fluid as a lube. It just allows you to separate the tool from the job more easily and will not contaminate the system.

[Blink]

Why didn't I think of this before.

Here's one of the test unions next to the two old unions I'm replacing. The new one is hand tight only - the other two are spanner tight.



The gap between the hex and the start of the hose socket is greater on the new one but not by much - it'll probably match the old ones when it's been tightened by spanner.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ADO282

What type of pipe flaring tool is the one pictured?
The Flaremaster doesn't need the dies to be greased surely?

Any flaring tool should be lubed with a suitable grease to minimise the friction between the pipe surface and the die. Remember the die is rotating against the pipe surface. I guess many people don't bother but the less friction between the compression surfaces the easier it will be and the surface quality on the flare with be better. In regard to what lube is appropriate, then compatibility with brake fluid is obviously important. Hydrocarbon/mineral oil lubes aren't compatible. The lubes supplied with the kits are most likely a rubber grease type. https://www.google.co.uk/search?safe...WPCB-YQ4dUDCAw

TC