Sykes Flaremaster 2

[ADO282]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Any flaring tool should be lubed with a suitable grease to minimise the friction between the pipe surface and the die. Remember the die is rotating against the pipe surface. I guess many people don't bother but the less friction between the compression surfaces the easier it will be and the surface quality on the flare with be better. In regard to what lube is appropriate, then compatibility with brake fluid is obviously important. Hydrocarbon/mineral oil lubes aren't compatible. The lubes supplied with the kits are most likely a rubber grease type. https://www.google.co.uk/search?safe...WPCB-YQ4dUDCAw

TC

Hi TC I agree with a tool like the one you used, but I can't understand why Simon would need to lubricate the die on the Flaremaster as it a hydraulic punch die, so no rotary action so the pipe doesn't pick up.


Having said that, I tend to dip the die into a small amount of DOT4 prior to making the flare, it cannot harm after all.

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by ADO282

I can't understand why Simon would need to lubricate the die on the Flaremaster as it a hydraulic punch die, so no rotary action so the pipe doesn't pick up.

It becomes, in effect, a tiny interference fit unless lubed. The lube just helps separation.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ADO282

I can't understand why Simon would need to lubricate the die on the Flaremaster as it a hydraulic punch die, so no rotary action so the pipe doesn't pick up.

whatever flaring tool is used, there is metal-metal contact under extreme pressure. So, a lube is beneficial to both the workpiece and the die. If you were making a thousand flares a day in a commercial setting, a die lube would be essential to staying in business.In a DIY situation making eight flares every two decades you'll get away with no lubricant at all, but microscopically, the flared surfaces will be poorer.


TC

[Blink]

Here are the instructions that came with the handheld flaring tool (the £39 one). The first thing it says is prepare the pipe - cut it square, chamfer the outer edge, & de-burr the bore. Then it makes a point about the grease.



Since we want single flare (DIN) I followed the instructions marked by the two red lines.

[Blink]

PS. Here's the mini tub of grease that comes with the tool.



I didn't eat it because it says "Do Not Eat" on the lid.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by ADO282

Hi TC I agree with a tool like the one you used, but I can't understand why Simon would need to lubricate the die on the Flaremaster as it a hydraulic punch die, so no rotary action so the pipe doesn't pick up.

I wasn't using the Flaremaster - I was using this one instead. It's the same tool as TC used. (I bought the option that included a 25ft coil of Kunifer, a pipe bender and a pipe cutter, from the same seller).

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Blink

Here are the instructions that came with the handheld flaring tool (the £39 one) ... Then it makes a point about the grease.

This is interesting because as we both know the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster is a lot more expensive than £39 and its instructions don't mention grease.

Simon

[ADO282]

Originally Posted by SD1too

This is interesting because as we both know the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster is a lot more expensive than £39 and its instructions don't mention grease.

Simon

Yes, I'm confused as I thought Simon had bought a Flaremaster, and not the Trident flaring tool???




If I had invested in a Flaremaster, the very last thing I would also buy is something that I would consider to be a poor second choice.

[ADO282]

I can see the attraction of the Trident tool for jobs like this, but I'm not in the habit of piecing in pipe in this fashion.


Nicely explained in this video, it looks to be a reasonable alternative to the rather expensive Flaremaster, if not an addition.....

[Blink]

Originally Posted by SD1too

This is interesting because as we both know the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster is a lot more expensive than £39 and its instructions don't mention grease.

Simon

Yes, it's odd because I can't find any grease being used in the Flaremaster demos online and there certainly wasn't any in the case I had - i.e. this actual one.



The two plastic bags contained spare blocks and dies - not grease. Anyway, the Sykes was a very well made tool but it's far too big to use in situ (e.g. the wheel arches) so I sent it back.



I replaced it with the Trident/Draper/Laser (or whatever its actual name is) which is also well made but much smaller. Even if I'd kept the Flaremaster I'd still have needed this to do the wheel arches.



If I was making brake pipes regularly I'd keep both the Sykes and the Trident/Draper/Laser. I can't afford both now though.

NB. Sykes do mention using Molyslip when using Flaremaster 2 on stainless steel pipes. See https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/downloads/027275LL.pdf

Their general download page is here - https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/down.../braking-tools