belt jumping and squealing as posted on 260's

[bigsteve]

This is the same as the one's I posted on the OTHER FORUM !!!!

Attachment 914

First off you are taking a very hard route to changing the belt, all you need to do is, put a 3/8 inch drive socket bar into the square hole in the adjuster it behind the air con pipe , but a bar on it and lever the adjuster across to take off the tension on the belt and its off , do the same to fit a new one, the belt wear can be checked in two ways if the adjuster pully is within 1 cm of the guide pully next it, the belt either to long or nackered, you can also check this if you look at the adjudter on the underside at the front of the adjuster you see 2 stops if they are touching, the belt has had it, the belt that came on my car was 94.25 measured around the outside this is to long to start with, I put on a new belt this long and it was out of adjustment with 5 minutes of starting the engine.
I have been doing some reserach on belts and the cost and quality seems to be great, in the states belts cost between $14 and $48, so the is a lot of difference, I have now concluded that the belt lenght you need is 93 inch outside lenght which is a 92.25 inside lenght, this is either a goodyear gator belt GTR 4060922 or a Gates 6PK2340 or 6PK2345 this I think this may be you answer, I am awaiting the goodyear belt from the good old US as we speak from Summit Racing, SEE ebay.com not ebay.co.uk @ $32.99
I let you know the outcome when I get it.
Also oil the the adjuster and move it back and forth when you change the belt as they can semi sezie up.




Hi Re squeeles

The belts can give a intermitant squeels from the paint or ink thats used to mark the belt, as it passes over the ider pullys that operate on the out side of the belt.

Jumping off

This was a massive problem when engine was first built Ford brought out updated adjusters, water pump and steering pump pullys with lips on to try to cure this problem with only some succes.
The main problem is that we rum manual gearboxes and therefore the emgine speeds chance much more rapadly than on a auto box cars, this just make the problem worse, ther no obsolute answer other than to make sure that all the ider pullys run free, the water pump is easy to turn other along with the other pullys on power steering and air con pump, having the air con on will increase the loads on the belt so if it squeeles then, it maybe worn out out of adjustment.
So check the tensioner on every belt change or if you are getting squeeling, spray WD40 on the edge of the black platic centre moving the tensior 20 odd times back and forth to work it in then I use spray grease out of a can, as it come's out very wet and drys to a grease as the propelant evaporates, again work it in, after lot of miles you may need to replace the adjuster as the spring tension reduces.

DO NOT USE UNDERDRIVE PULLY's UNLESS YOU WANT TO FIT A NEW ENGINE, BY FITTING A UNDERDRIVE ENGINE PULLY YOU REMOVE THE COMPUTOR DESIGNED HARMONIC BALANCING THAT BUILT INTO THE WEIGHT OF THE ORIGINAL PULLY, THIS IN TURN CAN MAKE THE CANKSHAFT MIRCO VIBRATE WHICH DISTROYS THE OIL PUMP DRIVE SPROCKET AND HAY PRESTO NEW ENGINE, DO TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, LOG ONTO THE MUSTANG FORUMS. still will not cure the belt problem anyway

Top ider on the clinder head is a very bad fit, the casting on the head that bearing slips over seem to be the wrong size, I put some tape around mine before refitting the ider and bolt.

Cheers

Steve F

[black olive]

very informative thread, Steve- thanks