Tis the season for... FBH posts

[Heddy]

So, had the car a week now, FBH whirs away for a minute or two, the n shuts off. Problem I think is that there is no dosing pump fitted. It's reasonable to assume I guess, that a non member may think that once all is connected 'engine end' then that's it. Too cold and wet to be rolling around underneath so will fix that later.

[macafee2]

If there is a dozing pump then could be the pcb has had it. Damn things. Frenchmike can repair the pcb's.

If you are able, test to make sure the water pump on the FBH is working and the glow plug is within tolerance. I suggest this only to make sure each component works as a faulty glow plug or water pump I think can lock up the pcb but others can advise on this.

I have come to the conclusion that an FBH needs to run for 10 minutes or so before you start the engine, so you do not wait for a month of Sundays before getting heat.

macafee2

[Heddy]

There isn't a dosing pump fitted, the bracket and bolts look like they've been there since new, no wiring pulled down either.

[Stussy]

Hi ,

My Webasto heater has stopped working , is there software that can be used to check it ? Its been working perfectly last winter , the PCB was faulty when I first bought the heater and French Mike fixed it , but I could do with checking it .

Regards

Stuart

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[another_clean_sheet]

This is from an old Email from Frenchmike when I had a problem.
I do not know how to get the pictures up but I can forward the Email onto you if you want.
WEBASTO failure overall diagnostics

Winter is coming and the FBH become useful to warm quickly our diesels.
in case of yours looks faulty, here is a exhaustive test:

PROCEDURE: (Engine cold and stopped)


-At first, unplug then replug the power connector (or fuse F8) in order to reset the system.
-Start a run by connecting permanently Pin 3 to earth.(98570 type)
(To + batt in case of 66232 model)
Simultaneously start a TIMER and listen when the fan stops
Pic 1

IF stop after 3 sec, restart 4 seconds later and finally stop at 2 minutes 7 sec;
The error returned may be caused by:

-Battery voltage lower than 10 volts
-Glow plug open or short circuit
-Circulation pump open or short circuit
-Combustion fan open or short circuit
-Fuel pomp open or short circuit
-PCB defective

IF a weird turbine noise appears with a door’s opening e.g.,
the PCB is more likely faulty.

IF stop after more than 2 minutes 10 sec, then
PCB and all devices are good (except doubtful glow plug)

IF stop at 4 minutes 5 sec, Glow plug resistor too high (0,6 ohms for instance),

IF stop at 4 minutes 40 sec it is a ignition fault, (fuel pump priming fault)


COMPONENTS TESTS

At first build the ‘magic tester’ made of a 20 watts bulb, 2 pins and 2 length of wire soldered or wrapped.
Pic 2

Unclip the smaller L cover by pulling towards you then pushing to access
the 3 others connectors.

See the schematic principle you will have to pin throw the insulator of the wires.

Pic 3

Circulation pump test
Pic 4
If light noise and bulb glowing :pump OK
If no noise and bright light : short circuit
If no noise and no light: open circuit

Combustion fan test
Pic 5

If strong noise and glowing bulb :pump OK
If no noise and bright light : short circuit
If no noise and no light: open circuit

Fuel pump continuity test

Pic 6

If glowing bulb :pump circuit OK but not enough current for action mechanism
(one can hear the solenoid pulsing by brief touches with bulb short-circuited)

If bright light : short circuit
If no light: open circuit

Glow plug at last (if all the rest is correct)

Pict 7

Start a run (pin 3 control) and simultaneously keep pinning the glow plug wires during the first 5 seconds.

If the bulb flash and after 30 seconds the fuel pump begin pulsing, then the glow plug resistor is faulty.

[Stussy]

I was wondering if these are any good ? So I can check it and clear faults with a laptop .

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