Advice needed to remove bolt from bottom shock absorber

JimJ · 4th September 2017, 14:52

Hi Everyone,

Trying to replace the rear upper suspension arm and struggling to get the bolt out of the shock absorber to gain access. The bolt is stuck tight. Have tried WD40 and oil to no avail. Last attempt managed to strip the bolt slightly. Any ideas on what to do next?

Cheers

Jim J

Jim Jamieson · 4th September 2017, 16:18

Yes these bolts can be extremely tight, but I can't help notice that you have lubed the head of the bolt. It's the thread at the other side where the problem lies.

Use a box type socket i.e. Hex rather than a multi hex and a large master bar.
Failing that you may have to put a bit of heat on it using a gas torch

Good luck.

David Lawrence · 4th September 2017, 16:21

Get yourself a good tight fitting wall drive impact socket, a 6 sided one. Hopefully that is not too chewed yet looking at it, you will get it out. You will need a good long breaker bar though because they are torqued up tight. I use a breaker bar that is almost a meter long.

Mike Noc · 4th September 2017, 17:00

Clean off all the rust on the end of the bolt with a wire brush before undoing it - I've had one pick up and damage the mounting hole thread.

Luckily I had the correct tap, which had been bought in error for another job, so easily sorted.

vacuman · 4th September 2017, 20:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

Get yourself a good tight fitting wall drive impact socket, a 6 sided one. Hopefully that is not too chewed yet looking at it, you will get it out. You will need a good long breaker bar though because they are torqued up tight. I use a breaker bar that is almost a meter long.

I have an old '70's Ford steering column tube (Capri I think) that I use to get extra leverage on my socket wrench. But be careful, I nearly tipped a car off it's stands once when give it the old heave-ho.

suzublu · 4th September 2017, 20:21

Forget WD40, Plusgas is what you need

Eddy600 · 4th September 2017, 21:07

Soak it in plus gas and if the bolts a bit chewed get some irwin bolt grips, always come in handy!

JimJ · 5th September 2017, 16:20

Thanks Everyone. Had to pack up yesterday as it was getting late. Not able to get under the car today, will have another go tomorrow, with the advice given above.

chris75 · 5th September 2017, 16:43

Jim , in case you go for fitting new bolts then this post may be of interest :
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...highlight=bolt
I found the new bolts to be too long !

gazcaz · 5th September 2017, 18:31

A little heat from a decent flame thrower always works.

5th September 2017, 16:20	#8
JimJ Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Lytham St. Annes Posts: 12 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Thanks Everyone. Had to pack up yesterday as it was getting late. Not able to get under the car today, will have another go tomorrow, with the advice given above. __________________ Jim J

5th September 2017, 16:43	#9
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	Jim , in case you go for fitting new bolts then this post may be of interest : https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...highlight=bolt I found the new bolts to be too long ! __________________ Who said it was simples ?

5th September 2017, 18:31	#10
gazcaz I really should get out more....... MG ZT Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Worthing Posts: 2,744 Thanks: 3,944 Thanked 576 Times in 471 Posts	A little heat from a decent flame thrower always works. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] MG ZT 2.5 V6 234th of 2,834 Trophy Blue ZT 190 + Saloons Produced 14th of 27 MG ZTs Produced on 27-09-2001

4th September 2017, 16:18	#2
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	Yes these bolts can be extremely tight, but I can't help notice that you have lubed the head of the bolt. It's the thread at the other side where the problem lies. Use a box type socket i.e. Hex rather than a multi hex and a large master bar. Failing that you may have to put a bit of heat on it using a gas torch Good luck.

4th September 2017, 16:21	#3
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	Get yourself a good tight fitting wall drive impact socket, a 6 sided one. Hopefully that is not too chewed yet looking at it, you will get it out. You will need a good long breaker bar though because they are torqued up tight. I use a breaker bar that is almost a meter long.

4th September 2017, 17:00	#4
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,550 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Clean off all the rust on the end of the bolt with a wire brush before undoing it - I've had one pick up and damage the mounting hole thread. Luckily I had the correct tap, which had been bought in error for another job, so easily sorted.

4th September 2017, 20:21	#6
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,921 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Forget WD40, Plusgas is what you need

4th September 2017, 21:07	#7
Eddy600 Loves to post Rover, MG Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Halifax Posts: 275 Thanks: 19 Thanked 77 Times in 61 Posts	Soak it in plus gas and if the bolts a bit chewed get some irwin bolt grips, always come in handy!