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Old 22nd August 2020, 22:10   #1
The Mighty Quinn
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Default Alpine head unit connections / patch leads - NO POWER

I've been trying to connect my new Alpine head unit today (CDE 178BT).

I have an Alpine KTP445 inline amp under the glovebox as well, and everything (bar the steering wheel controls) worked ok with my previous Alpine head unit.

However, I'm not getting any power to the head unit with things connected up as illustrated in the attached PDF - am I missing something obvious here?

I've left the steering wheel control interface box disconnected in order to get some radio stations saved before plugging it in.

I've lost the control panel of my previous Alpine unit, but I plugged it in (with its own supplied patch lead) and although I had no real function or sound available, I was able to eject an old cd from the head unit - which surely suggests that power was going to that one?

Not much use with this kind of thing, so if anyone can point me in the right direction (new patch leads? - if so, which ones will work?), it would be much appreciated.


Cheers,
Karl.
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File Type: pdf Alpine head unit connections and leads.pdf (705.0 KB, 11 views)
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Old 22nd August 2020, 23:24   #2
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I've been trying to connect my new Alpine head unit today (CDE 178BT).

I have an Alpine KTP445 inline amp under the glovebox as well, and everything (bar the steering wheel controls) worked ok with my previous Alpine head unit.

However, I'm not getting any power to the head unit with things connected up as illustrated in the attached PDF - am I missing something obvious here?

I've left the steering wheel control interface box disconnected in order to get some radio stations saved before plugging it in.

I've lost the control panel of my previous Alpine unit, but I plugged it in (with its own supplied patch lead) and although I had no real function or sound available, I was able to eject an old cd from the head unit - which surely suggests that power was going to that one?

Not much use with this kind of thing, so if anyone can point me in the right direction (new patch leads? - if so, which ones will work?), it would be much appreciated.


Cheers,
Karl.
from the images, there is a red wire that does not look to be connected (page one image and three). This is a power wire of some description, likewise, there is also an orange wire too that is not connected. I cannot remember what the orange one is for, but the red one (and yellow) both need to be connected, as these are both lives, a permanent and switched live.

If this is not the case, then approach it logically.

Disconnect everything, so that all that remains is the ISO car loom. Plug the Alpine loom into this, ignoring the steering wheel part of the loom. Plug the loom into the stereo then power on. This will eliminate any issue with the stereo (as this is the newest link in the chain).

If it operates fine, then plug the Alpine stereo loom into the KTP445 amp (I think this is how it operates?) and then plug the amp loom into the car loom. Then test again.

The steering wheel adapter looks to be an Autoleads ones? If so perhaps try fitting it without the amp in the equation, and test its operation without trying to make the steering controls operational at this point.

As I understand it, the wiring should go as follows.

Stereo loom, to the Amplifier, to the steering wheel control loom, to the car ISO loom. (There will also be the 2.5/3.5mm plug from the steering wheel adapter control box that will plug directly into the socket on the back of the stereo).

The above all depends on the amp drawing power from the ISO loom. It will be a little less straightforward, if it draws power directly from the battery (as a standard amplifier would).
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Old 23rd August 2020, 08:22   #3
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from the images, there is a red wire that does not look to be connected (page one image and three). This is a power wire of some description, likewise, there is also an orange wire too that is not connected. I cannot remember what the orange one is for, but the red one (and yellow) both need to be connected, as these are both lives, a permanent and switched live.

If this is not the case, then approach it logically.

Disconnect everything, so that all that remains is the ISO car loom. Plug the Alpine loom into this, ignoring the steering wheel part of the loom. Plug the loom into the stereo then power on. This will eliminate any issue with the stereo (as this is the newest link in the chain).

If it operates fine, then plug the Alpine stereo loom into the KTP445 amp (I think this is how it operates?) and then plug the amp loom into the car loom. Then test again.

The steering wheel adapter looks to be an Autoleads ones? If so perhaps try fitting it without the amp in the equation, and test its operation without trying to make the steering controls operational at this point.

As I understand it, the wiring should go as follows.

Stereo loom, to the Amplifier, to the steering wheel control loom, to the car ISO loom. (There will also be the 2.5/3.5mm plug from the steering wheel adapter control box that will plug directly into the socket on the back of the stereo).

The above all depends on the amp drawing power from the ISO loom. It will be a little less straightforward, if it draws power directly from the battery (as a standard amplifier would).

Thanks very much for the advice, Alan

Will go at it again today, and will take a step-by-step approach as you've stated.

I have an old Autoleads lead that I'm using as it has the right ISO plug (new Connects2 lead has a different arrangement, so leaving it out..), and as I've got eject power going to my old head unit, I'm guessing you're right, in that I've just left something disconnected with the new leads.

Will report back later, to see if I make any progress...

There's no security feature on the new head unit that I might be overlooking, is there?
There was one very small screw and 3 larger screws in a bag for the new head unit, but I just assumed these were for mounting purposes (not needed)...


Cheers,
Karl.
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Old 23rd August 2020, 11:53   #4
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Ok, have power now (those bullet connectors coming from the head unit loom needed to be hooked-up to the bullets on the ISO patch lead).

Can't get steering wheel controls to work with the interface box (although I can live without SWC if needs be). I have an Autoleads SWC lead (with ISO plug) and a Connects2 SWC lead (with no ISO plug) - the Autoleads one doesn't seem to want to work, but if I connect the Connects2 into the Autoleads (which has the ISO), there are flyleads for SWC on the Connects2 unit which presumably can be crimped onto the SWC flyleads on the back of the head unit? I'll add images a bit later on..

Oh, and another problem, subwoofer isn't working... ARRGHH!! (Alpine SWD-355). Don't think I've changed any of the leads to this - just have it plugged straight into back of the head unit (worked ok on previous HU).

Thanks again to Alan - I have at least got sound..!


Cheers,
Karl.
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Old 23rd August 2020, 12:56   #5
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For the sub, you might need to turn it up lol. Press the audio button, and turn it up to see if it works. Another potential problem is that the 'defeat' is on. Press the audio button multiple times, until you get to the 'defeat' option, then turn the knob, until on is selected.

Download the 'Alpine Tune-it' App for a smart phone or tablet etc. Then switch on the bluetooth on your phone and pair it with the stereo. The Tune it is amazing, and really makes the sound stand out. (seriously, download this app! lol have a play about with it)

The other possible reason for the sub not working, is that it has not been connected up either. That sub is what is called an active sub, in that it has a built in amplifier. I reckon it is wired into the power fine, (likely directly into the battery/fusebox), so it just leaves either the sound leads that are not connected. The sub can use either speaker inputs, or RCA leads for sound connection. Check if there are any RCA leads not connected, if there are, connect them to the subwoofer pair of RCA outputs on the back of the stereo (if you have the RCA leads, go to the sub box, and switch off any by pass switches as these can be controlled by the stereo itself, if it is connected via speaker leads, leave the filters on the sub amp alone).

----------------------------------------------------

The connects 2 and Autoleads connectors are not compatible as far as I am aware. The connects2 (which I have never used, I dont think) seems to have been 'adapted' somehow, but remove it.

The autoleads, I suspect that you have made the same mistake I do everytime with the autoleads kit lol. The instructions are not clear (and I cannot recall exactly, but you will be able to experiment as I do when it happens). If you do not do a procedure that isnt clear in the instructions, the SWC will not work, and you need to remove every wire again, and start all over.

How I got mine to work was to do with the small two pin plug that comes with the connector, and it is joined somewhere if I recall with a bullet connector. Disconnect that bullet connector, and disconnect ALL the wiring (just the plugs not any fly leads etc and the main plug from the back of the stereo). The wiring needs to be disconnected to reset it again.

Plug it all in, including the SWC black box, EXCEPT for the SWC 2.5/3.5mm plug and the bullet connector for the two pin plug. Turn on the stereo, and store a station or two. Turn off the ignition, then turn it on again to make sure the stereo has actually stored the stations (if not, the red and yellow power wires are back to front). Once you are sure they are stored, switch off with the key, then plug in the 2.5mm/3.5mm plug into the back of the stereo (make sure it is in the correct socket, as it is similar to the microphone one), and then connect the bullet connector (I read of this online once, and it worked for me so I do it now, but do not understand why). Switch on the stereo, and test the steering controls.

-----------------------------------------------------

you mention the bullets from the stereo loom plug into the ISO patch lead. You shouldnt have had to do that. The stereo loom should have had these, the stereo plug, should have an ISO socket on it, into which the 445 amp loom should plug into. But no matter, it is working - and will be safe, just one or two wires will be shorter and make it a little more awkward to tuck the wiring into the console.

--------------------------------------------------------

There is no additional security features, and the screws are indeed for mounting.
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Old 23rd August 2020, 20:16   #6
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Jeez, you are a veritable fountain of knowledge on these systems, Alan!

Thanks very much for all that info - will definitely give everything you say a try next time I get a chance (will probably be the weekend before I get back to it).

Hopefully, I will be able to report back with a fully functioning system by then.


Thanks again,
Karl.
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Old 23rd August 2020, 22:11   #7
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Jeez, you are a veritable fountain of knowledge on these systems, Alan!



Thanks very much for all that info - will definitely give everything you say a try next time I get a chance (will probably be the weekend before I get back to it).



Hopefully, I will be able to report back with a fully functioning system by then.





Thanks again,

Karl.
I am kinda working blind on it to be honest karl, and trying to talk you through it as straightforwardly as possible, but I fear something will be left out as either of us is unaware of it (eg a stray wire/RCA lead).

There is another possible reason for the sub not to be working,and that could be the remote switch on lead not being connected to the stereo, this is a blue wire. Both the sub and the 445 amp will need them to operate. An iso plug normally has this wire populated, but it may be loose on the cde 178, it will be labelled remote.

I would suggest searching on google for both the amp and the sub, as there are installation videos on them. This is not to show you how to actually do it,but rather to give you an idea of the wiring that you need to be looking for.

As a side note, as the sub may be wired both via the speakers or RCA, if it is via a speaker connection, I would strongly recommend changing this by installing a pair of rca cables from the stereo to the sub (4 metres would be fine). All the other wiring will be done, however by connecting in this way, you will.have full control of it at the head unit (and the app). You can tweak it to suit each song, including the crossover point and volume.

Likewise it would be good if the 445 amp still had its rca connections intact, then connect this to the stereo using short 50cm rca leads. This would give a cleaner sound especially since it is a class d amp. But it is not a big issue if this is not the case.

It is just a shame you are so far away, I could have had a look over to see what is missing.



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