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Old 25th February 2022, 14:31   #1
Caskin
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Default Handbrake NOT working after brake overhaul.

Think I might have shot myself in the foot on this one.
Car was laid up for three months over the winter whilst I carried out some servicing and checks, prior to arrival of spring.
One of the checks was a clean up and check of the brake system.
Carried out in this manner. Handbrake OFF.
1.All calipers removed and supported, pads etc checked all good. Calipers wire brushed to remove loose rust and treated with a rust cure.
2. Discs removed and all corrosion removed, discs buffed up like new.
3. Discs replaced.
4.Handbrake in cabin, manual adjuster eased off. Handbrake shoes adjusted via hole in rear discs.
5.Calipers refitted using new bolts. All discs turned through 360 degrees, no binding, all turned very smoothly.
6.PROBLEM POINT!!! went to into cab to adjust manual adjuster on handbrake only to find, no tension on handbrake, adjuster can be easily moved backwards and forwards.!!!Handbrake not working???

So I'm assuming handbrake cable has become disconnected in some way,

I'm not familiar with the full handbrake system, have I overlooked something?

If the cable has become disconnected can I reconnect relatively easily???

If so how do I access components in order to reconnect??

Somewhat cheesed off thinking I had achieved something, only to raise a problem that wasn't there before I started!!

Any and all advice gratefully accepted. Thanks
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Old 25th February 2022, 15:04   #2
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may have been disconnected at the adjuster inside the rear disc.
Easy to reattach but you will have to remove the rear discs and check the bottom part of the adjuster. Mind you, if you have slackened of the nut in the car, you will have to adjust it, tighten it, some to get the handbrake to work.

How well adjusted are the handbrake shoes in the drum, if these are not adjusted enough and are still "closed" then again you will get movement in the car but perhaps no "engagement" of the shoes against the drum

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Last edited by macafee2; 25th February 2022 at 15:07..
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Old 25th February 2022, 15:10   #3
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To discount macafees suggestion, Jack up the car and try and spin both wheels with the handbrake applied, if one turns it’s the wheel end that’s the issue.

To access the handbrake compensator it’s easier with the centre console out (try this first) it should let you see the issue.

If not you need to lift the carpet at the rear of the front seats to access the Tim cover over the top of the compensator, once the tin cover is removed you should be able to see the issue.
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Old 25th February 2022, 17:56   #4
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I know this is probably stating the obvious but with the shoes correctly adjusted you need about 25mm of thread above the lever adjusting nut.
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Old 25th February 2022, 18:02   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
may have been disconnected at the adjuster inside the rear disc.
Easy to reattach but you will have to remove the rear discs and check the bottom part of the adjuster. Mind you, if you have slackened of the nut in the car, you will have to adjust it, tighten it, some to get the handbrake to work.

How well adjusted are the handbrake shoes in the drum, if these are not adjusted enough and are still "closed" then again you will get movement in the car but perhaps no "engagement" of the shoes against the drum

macafee2
Thanks for reply, but its not that, cables are attached, plus as mentioned both rear brake shoes were fully adjusted by moving adjuster through disc holes.

It feels as though it has become disconnected at the handbrake adjuster within the center consul???
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Old 25th February 2022, 18:16   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
To discount macafees suggestion, Jack up the car and try and spin both wheels with the handbrake applied, if one turns it’s the wheel end that’s the issue.

To access the handbrake compensator it’s easier with the centre console out (try this first) it should let you see the issue.

If not you need to lift the carpet at the rear of the front seats to access the Tim cover over the top of the compensator, once the tin cover is removed you should be able to see the issue.
Hello again....I tend to agree with your assessment, car is on axle stands at the moment. But as stated cannot apply handbrake as it is totally free moving as is the adjuster, no tension on handbrake whatsoever making it totally useless,with no ability to tension cables.
To remove the center consul is a dockyard job, but Im convinced that's where the problem lies.
I'm fully prepared to cut an access hole in the center consul to access compensator?
Trouble is I have no idea as to where to cut in order to access brake cables?

Do not understand your comment regarding tin cover?
Are you saying there is a tin cover in the car that I can remove to access cables?

I'm thinking that by my easing off adjuster that somehow the handbrake adjuster fitment/cable has come adrift?

How does the cable connect to the handbrake inside the car?

Sorry to bombard you with questions, but removing center consul is not an option,
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Old 25th February 2022, 18:32   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caskin View Post
Hello again....I tend to agree with your assessment, car is on axle stands at the moment. But as stated cannot apply handbrake as it is totally free moving as is the adjuster, no tension on handbrake whatsoever making it totally useless,with no ability to tension cables.
To remove the center consul is a dockyard job, but Im convinced that's where the problem lies.
I'm fully prepared to cut an access hole in the center consul to access compensator?
Trouble is I have no idea as to where to cut in order to access brake cables?

Do not understand your comment regarding tin cover?
Are you saying there is a tin cover in the car that I can remove to access cables?

I'm thinking that by my easing off adjuster that somehow the handbrake adjuster fitment/cable has come adrift?

How does the cable connect to the handbrake inside the car?

Sorry to bombard you with questions, but removing center consul is not an option,

wow hang on, At the back of the console there is a cubby hole or ashtray, remove it and there are two screws or bolts underneath, these need to be removed. Move seats back as far as they go, they will leave a screw each side of the console visible, these need to be removed. I'm not sure if there are any others in the side. lift the front portion of the rear set and unhook the carpet. Move seats forward and you can them fold carpet forwards. removing the front seats may make things easier. prop the rear of the console up with a bit of wood. I think there is then a metal shield under the console, this may need removing.

the cables to the rear hook into the compensator. The front cable also hooks in. there is a little black clip holding i think the front cable into the compensator, it is underneath. I cant really recall about the black clip but it should be there.

macafee2

Last edited by macafee2; 25th February 2022 at 18:34..
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Old 25th February 2022, 18:41   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
wow hang on, At the back of the console there is a cubby hole or ashtray, remove it and there are two screws or bolts underneath, these need to be removed. Move seats back as far as they go, they will leave a screw each side of the console visible, these need to be removed. I'm not sure if there are any others in the side. lift the front portion of the rear set and unhook the carpet. Move seats forward and you can them fold carpet forwards. removing the front seats may make things easier. prop the rear of the console up with a bit of wood. I think there is then a metal shield under the console, this may need removing.

the cables to the rear hook into the compensator. The front cable also hooks in. there is a little black clip holding i think the front cable into the compensator, it is underneath. I cant really recall about the black clip but it should be there.

macafee2
My Apologies, just a bit uptight, after all the work, to be landed with this problem.

So if I read you right it is possible to "bodge" ones way into the center consul thereby preventing the need to completely remove?
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Purchased 52 plate V6 connie Wedgewood blue,one owner,42000 on clock ,Virtually pristine.2017 service,new Goodyear tyres,Discs and pads all round,new battery,New cam and timing belts (3rd fitting in life of car),plus full normal service.exhaust 2016.First mod was to bonnet catch .Latest mod,triple heart pace maker. All brake lines changed for copper, all brake hoses changed for Pagid hoses.
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Old 25th February 2022, 18:49   #9
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Have you seen the "How to"?
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=23794
and
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=1360646
Perhaps also, the adjuster may have come apart during adjustment/disassembly? (as Trikey/Macafee's note)
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Last edited by roverbarmy; 1st March 2022 at 09:56..
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Old 25th February 2022, 20:21   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caskin View Post
My Apologies, just a bit uptight, after all the work, to be landed with this problem.

So if I read you right it is possible to "bodge" ones way into the center consul thereby preventing the need to completely remove?
No offence taken, never thought there was any meant . No need to remove it to get to the handbrake compensator. I find it to be a bit of a faff but they way i said is about the right way to access it. To put your mind at rest, I think Arctic does a handbrake compensator change in 15 minutes. The bloke must be a magician as I dont normally get all the tools i need together in 15 minutes and it take me hours to change one.

good luck

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