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Old 16th January 2015, 11:15   #11
whitevanman
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Just ordered Matt, Ours is struggling to stay at 82-84c and drops to 70's when moving..
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Today the 23rd of April I will mostly be: Kids, bikes, dog, kids, bikes, dog...Seems to be a pattern forming here

Car: Connie SE CDT Manual, Mods: O-Rings, Silicon intercooler hose, Stainless EGR Bypass, BMW PCV Mod, 160 Upgrade, DD Unit, Projector Headlights, Powerflex Bottom Mount, Remote Clutch reservoir, SS Compensator; Inline Stat To Come: cat gut (when replacing iffy section). Meteors after refurb..
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Old 22nd January 2015, 00:01   #12
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Originally Posted by whitevanman View Post
Just ordered Matt, Ours is struggling to stay at 82-84c and drops to 70's when moving..
Thanks for your order.
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Old 22nd January 2015, 00:03   #13
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Do you do the remote stat?
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Old 27th January 2015, 01:55   #14
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Hello there, unfortunately not - my apologies.
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Old 30th August 2016, 19:03   #15
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Just done the test on mine, 81-84 degrees, dropping to 78 when moving - would say stat is fubar?
My questions is ; when fitting the renault (vomit) stat, do you have to remove the old one. I will admit now that I have not read the info on fitting it, and could this lack of engine temp be the cause of having to crank my heater up full to get hot air to the screen?

Ta..
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Old 30th August 2016, 19:58   #16
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Originally Posted by Fishytroll66 View Post
Just done the test on mine, 81-84 degrees, dropping to 78 when moving - would say stat is fubar?
My questions is ; when fitting the renault (vomit) stat, do you have to remove the old one. I will admit now that I have not read the info on fitting it, and could this lack of engine temp be the cause of having to crank my heater up full to get hot air to the screen?

Ta..
Yes I would say it is fubarred, especially if it takes more than 3 or 4 miles to reach at least 80 degrees. It is close to being fubarred anyway.

You wont need to remove the original, as it isnt known to fail open or closed, but rather it fails by opening too early.

Installing the Renault stat, is a relatively simple job, I have now done it a few times and can do them in about 10 minutes lol.

There are other options, but none are as easy and as cheap as the R5 stat. It will help get the temp up higher to the accepted operating temp. Before commencing any work, fill the bowl of the stat with water and make sure it is water tight. If it is not, reject it, for you will notice no difference.

Dont bother trying to crank the heat up, cold or warm, just turn the AC on it will clear just as quickly. even in cold weather.
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Old 31st August 2016, 16:11   #17
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Nice one CLF,
regarding cranking the heat up, I am more concerned about the chill factor to my fingers tbh . Do you recommend changing the manifold seals / gaskets at the same time? If so, I can order the lot from Matt in one go.
Only problem I have is the three screw holding the intake to the slam panel are just spinning, guess I can just wedge the whole thing out of the way though.

cheers,
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Old 31st August 2016, 16:47   #18
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Originally Posted by Fishytroll66 View Post
Nice one CLF,
regarding cranking the heat up, I am more concerned about the chill factor to my fingers tbh . Do you recommend changing the manifold seals / gaskets at the same time? If so, I can order the lot from Matt in one go.
Only problem I have is the three screw holding the intake to the slam panel are just spinning, guess I can just wedge the whole thing out of the way though.

cheers,
which manifold? the air intake manifold? if it is, you dont need to touch the manifold to remove the top hose. Two of my screws in the intake hose were spinning, however, I simply lifted the top of the slam panel as I unscrewed and they came out. You can buy new nuts on ebay cheaply, however I cannot remember their name, but I have never bothered. (incidentally, you can get away with pulling the hose away from the intake and sliding it over - but you dont even have to do that).

If you are removing the intake manifold for whatever reason, whilst you shouldnt need to replace the gaskets, it is good practice to replace.

If you are replacing the original thermostat, I havent done this yet, however, I believe you WILL need to replace the OEM thermostat seals. (the R5 mod has none to replace).

If it has never been done before, you will need to cut the steel band on the hose at the engine side, ultimately replacing with a hose clip. To cut, I used a junior hacksaw, scored the band with the saw, and the at its edge until cut through, then with pliers, peeled back like a corned beef can. Have you seen the how to for replacing both stats?

Jule's How To

Arctic's How To

Mat (DMGRS)'s OEM How To

Just remember to check for the water tightness, by filling the bowl, all the effort will be for nought if it is not tight.

Not watertight

Watertight.
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Last edited by clf; 31st August 2016 at 17:05..
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Old 31st August 2016, 17:07   #19
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Fantastic post above - thanks clf.
I don't think I can add anything else of use!
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Old 2nd October 2016, 20:11   #20
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Replacement stat received mat
Thanks buddy- yr the man
Regards
Chris
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