V6 2.5 hydramount to Diesel - Page 2

Steve1966 · 13th February 2018, 11:45

Right, I've managed to find one image of what is said to be a diesel mount removed from a vehicle. It shows the letter J stamped on the underside. Just need to find images of 1.8 and V6 mounts too. Not that this helps particularly as original OEM parts (pre Apr 2005) will no doubt be very scarce. I did notice that the original parts are date stamped which will help to identify OEM.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/ROVER-75-MG-...item2a9d22437d

genpk · 13th February 2018, 13:24

Did the hydramount in my 135 bhp diesel.
The lower engine mount had also gone so replaced that as well with a powerflex bush.
Think that when the lower mount goes it places huge strain on the hydramount .
Prior to doing the hydramount , I had a little bit of vibration, did a visual of the hydramount and it all looked fine.
Took it out and found there was a large crack in the rubber but no leakage.
Also found there is a aluminium spacer under the diesel hydramount unlike the petrol one which screws right down on the cars body.
Vibration pretty much gone now.
Re different types of hydramounts, I wonder if the suppliers these days really bother with making the parts with the correct rubber as per original design.

Salad-Dodger · 13th February 2018, 13:43

When I changed the hydro-mount on my 190 I used a freelander mount from Island 4/4. The price was quite good as well. I just shortened one of the threaded studs. If I find the invoice I'll get back but it worked ok and still is working. Steve

Bolin · 13th February 2018, 16:53

I have had a look at my original from my V6, stamped April 2001 - there appears to be a letter on the base but it is too rusty to make it out. No sign of a coloured spot.

Steve, with regards to the wire strap - on this Apr '01 mount, without strap, the 'slots' in the base and top do not align. On the new 'genuine' mount I fitted, which looked a bit different (made in China?) the slots again did not line up but were in a different orientation to the old one.

So did the orientation of the two slots on the mount ever matter with regard to fitting the wire strap?

I tried to get the wire when I changed my mount last year but couldn't find one. I have even seen a launch car that looked to have an original mount but no wire, so must have been deleted very very early on.

Steve1966 · 13th February 2018, 17:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bolin

So did the orientation of the two slots on the mount ever matter with regard to fitting the wire strap?

I tried to get the wire when I changed my mount last year but couldn't find one. I have even seen a launch car that looked to have an original mount but no wire, so must have been deleted very very early on.

The two slots would have to be parallel but on either side of the studs (so that the wire ran diagonally between them. You had to fit the wire into the slot at the top and then push the steel part the wire was crimped into, into the groove at the bottom. It was tight enough not to fall off but still simple to fit. The problem with working on these cars for so long before launch (2.5 years more or less) is that it's difficult to remember exactly when things were deleted. Maybe it never made it to production?

Steve.

goofysth · 14th February 2018, 13:26

Well, what i discovered this morning is that i am missing this part below the hydramount (the absorber).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZT-Rov...item5b3a47133b

Is that the possible cause and how is it possible that it is not there?

Steve1966 · 14th February 2018, 13:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by goofysth

Well, what i discovered this morning is that i am missing this part below the hydramount (the absorber).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZT-Rov...item5b3a47133b

Is that the possible cause and how is it possible that it is not there?

Your engine will be sitting low on that side by the thickness of the base of the absorber (4-5mm?) but it won't have affected the mount otherwise I wouldn't think. The absorber is only there to add mass to the assembly/longitudinal to reduce chain noise (whine) from the engine at around 2600 rpm.

Steve.

Arctic · 14th February 2018, 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salad-Dodger

When I changed the hydro-mount on my 190 I used a freelander mount from Island 4/4. The price was quite good as well. I just shortened one of the threaded studs. If I find the invoice I'll get back but it worked ok and still is working. Steve

Hi Steve.
Yes I asked this question about 2.5-3 years and was shot down, saying they are larger when I knew they were not, admittedly I bought as a spare for the TD4 I had at the time, but they looked awfully alike if not the same, turns out yes they fit if you cut off the thread a little.

Rob & Steve fitted it to trebor diesel and all went well and works great cost is a lot less as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...19.m1438.l2649

1

2

goofysth · 14th February 2018, 14:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1966

Your engine will be sitting low on that side by the thickness of the base of the absorber (4-5mm?) but it won't have affected the mount otherwise I wouldn't think. The absorber is only there to add mass to the assembly/longitudinal to reduce chain noise (whine) from the engine at around 2600 rpm.

Steve.

Thank you very much, sir.

JohnnyBG · 8th November 2019, 19:19

Hi, while taking out the HPFP prior to putting in the recon HPFP (from P F Jones) I found the hydramount (or is it hydromount) was leaking. It fell apart taking it out.

Bought a replacement from DMGRS and plan to fit it tomorrow. I don't have the special tool but plan to spin it in with with a bit of threadlock on and then tighten up with couple of taps with a copper drift. Then use the torque wrench on the top nut (will check book for torque on that). I'm assuming that by the time the "cap" over the top hydramount stud is tight against the top of the hydramount then it won't spin and stress the rubber.

Bit expensive to stuff up!

Any thoughts?

JohnnyBG

13th February 2018, 11:45	#11
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	Right, I've managed to find one image of what is said to be a diesel mount removed from a vehicle. It shows the letter J stamped on the underside. Just need to find images of 1.8 and V6 mounts too. Not that this helps particularly as original OEM parts (pre Apr 2005) will no doubt be very scarce. I did notice that the original parts are date stamped which will help to identify OEM. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/ROVER-75-MG-...item2a9d22437d __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). Last edited by Steve1966; 13th February 2018 at 11:55..

13th February 2018, 16:53	#14
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,617 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	I have had a look at my original from my V6, stamped April 2001 - there appears to be a letter on the base but it is too rusty to make it out. No sign of a coloured spot. Steve, with regards to the wire strap - on this Apr '01 mount, without strap, the 'slots' in the base and top do not align. On the new 'genuine' mount I fitted, which looked a bit different (made in China?) the slots again did not line up but were in a different orientation to the old one. So did the orientation of the two slots on the mount ever matter with regard to fitting the wire strap? I tried to get the wire when I changed my mount last year but couldn't find one. I have even seen a launch car that looked to have an original mount but no wire, so must have been deleted very very early on. __________________ "...the new Rover 75, which is a fabulous car......I think it looks fabulous....It's like sitting in a Rolls Royce......For me, this is the star of the show.....it looks so good" - J. Clarkson, motoring journalist on the launch of the Rover 75 in 1998.

8th November 2019, 19:19	#20
JohnnyBG Avid contributor ZT-T Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Teesside Posts: 235 Thanks: 176 Thanked 66 Times in 38 Posts	75 Tourer cdti hydra(o)mount Hi, while taking out the HPFP prior to putting in the recon HPFP (from P F Jones) I found the hydramount (or is it hydromount) was leaking. It fell apart taking it out. Bought a replacement from DMGRS and plan to fit it tomorrow. I don't have the special tool but plan to spin it in with with a bit of threadlock on and then tighten up with couple of taps with a copper drift. Then use the torque wrench on the top nut (will check book for torque on that). I'm assuming that by the time the "cap" over the top hydramount stud is tight against the top of the hydramount then it won't spin and stress the rubber. Bit expensive to stuff up! Any thoughts? JohnnyBG

13th February 2018, 13:24	#12
genpk Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA Posts: 1,664 Thanks: 3 Thanked 461 Times in 299 Posts	Did the hydramount in my 135 bhp diesel. The lower engine mount had also gone so replaced that as well with a powerflex bush. Think that when the lower mount goes it places huge strain on the hydramount . Prior to doing the hydramount , I had a little bit of vibration, did a visual of the hydramount and it all looked fine. Took it out and found there was a large crack in the rubber but no leakage. Also found there is a aluminium spacer under the diesel hydramount unlike the petrol one which screws right down on the cars body. Vibration pretty much gone now. Re different types of hydramounts, I wonder if the suppliers these days really bother with making the parts with the correct rubber as per original design.

13th February 2018, 13:43	#13
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	When I changed the hydro-mount on my 190 I used a freelander mount from Island 4/4. The price was quite good as well. I just shortened one of the threaded studs. If I find the invoice I'll get back but it worked ok and still is working. Steve

14th February 2018, 13:26	#16
goofysth Avid contributor Rover 75 Contemporary Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Capitol Posts: 116 Thanks: 37 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	Well, what i discovered this morning is that i am missing this part below the hydramount (the absorber). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZT-Rov...item5b3a47133b Is that the possible cause and how is it possible that it is not there?