Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 17th October 2019, 22:15   #11
Dorset Bob
Senior Citizen
 
Dorset Bob's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur SE,Chrysler 300C,124 Spider, Daytona 955i,Honda XL250 & Royal Enfield 650GT

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: The Kingdom of Wessex
Posts: 6,976
Thanks: 2,391
Thanked 2,685 Times in 1,686 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
...in my mind when a pressurised coolant system is opened one of two things come out of the bleed screw, either coolant or air.
...
Mike
Your statement is correct.
What about the other millions of pressurised systems, that do not adhere to the "special MGR procedure"?
__________________



Let the good times roll............



Dorset Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 09:47   #12
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,267
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Mike and Bob,

The point I was trying to make to Pete is that, having carried out the official MGR refilling and bleeding procedure, if the presence of air is still suspected then it is not the procedure which is at fault.

Pete has already identified two defects in his cooling system:
  • The bleed screw does not tighten properly.
  • There's a leak at the junction of a hose and pipe.
Both of these have the potential to create the symptoms he is experiencing and therefore need to be repaired immediately. There is no point in performing the alternative bleeding methods you both are discussing whilst these defects exist.

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 12:19   #13
racing green rover
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Westhoughton Bolton
Posts: 233
Thanks: 153
Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Well i checked the coolant level again and it was halfway up the tank i also slightly loosened the bleed screw with the engine running and a few bubbles came out then coolant i then loosened it when the thermostat opened and there was quite a few frothy bubbles that came out
racing green rover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 13:16   #14
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,516
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

Thanks for the news, I found I had to repeat this operation several times before everything stabilised, not at all surprised, nor will anyone who has a water-based radiator system be, but let's keep it a secret from Simon ...

Mike
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 17:25   #15
racing green rover
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Westhoughton Bolton
Posts: 233
Thanks: 153
Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts
Default

It created an airlock unfortunately and the bleed screw head has snapped off so i need another bottom hose unfortunately. Its on verge of being weighed in its been nothing but agro and stress this car
racing green rover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 18:29   #16
vitesse
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gävle
Posts: 2,516
Thanks: 395
Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts
Default

Sorry to hear that - try Mickeyboy on here, he's usually helpful if you need s/h spares. But if it's only the actual screw rather than the complete hose, couldn't you extract the screw with a heated screwdriver and either source a replacement screw, or find one with the same thread and perhaps fit a small O ring or rubber washer?

Regards

Last edited by vitesse; 18th October 2019 at 20:02.. Reason: More suggestions
vitesse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2019, 22:14   #17
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,267
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by racing green rover View Post
...the bleed screw head has snapped off so i need another bottom hose ...
Pete,

As Mike says, provided that you can devise a way to extract the broken screw and that the thread in the hose isn't damaged, you can buy a replacement screw separately from Rimmer Bros. or any X-Part dealer such as E Car Parts Ltd.

The part number is unusual in that it has one less digit than normal:
PYP 100 08

If you add an 'L' suffix, you can get it from Land Rover as well.

Best of luck!

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th October 2019, 15:02   #18
racing green rover
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Westhoughton Bolton
Posts: 233
Thanks: 153
Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Well an update i chiseled the remains of the screw away and it fell into the hose taking the thread in the hose with it so iv managed to order a used hose should be here sometime next week
racing green rover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th October 2019, 19:10   #19
kaiser
This is my second home
 
kaiser's Avatar
 
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
Default

A cold heater usually means you have an air lock in the system. It is the first sign of a loss of coolant too!
The cooling system is self bleeding, so if you drive it and top up, when cold, the problem will be solved.
One or maybe two top ups are required at times, after a refill.
I would leave the bleed screw well alone. It is likely to break and fall into the hose, being plastic!!.
On mine, I have removed it completely, and replaced it with a seal and a stainless screw/nut, making sure it will never sneak up upon me again!

The temperature on the engine varies quite a bit, depending on load, speed and ambient temperature. But it should never go much higher than 95 in free traffic. In town it will go to 102 to 105, depending on ambient temperature, but should fall fast after the fan switches on.
Once you know the likely scenario, you will feel much more relaxed with the changing temperatures.
The painted on temperature gauge is absolutely useless. So set the IPK to show real temperature, it is dead easy, once you get used to it.
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold

Last edited by kaiser; 19th October 2019 at 19:13..
kaiser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th October 2019, 21:08   #20
racing green rover
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Westhoughton Bolton
Posts: 233
Thanks: 153
Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts
Default

The heater never went cold it was only the high temperature when i was driving 96-99 on ipk and the bottom rad hose was cold this was an hour after driving then when i drove it again after half an hour to cool down normal temperatures returned and the bottom hose was hot again. The fan was staying on dropping eventually to 96 but not to 95 to turn the fan off after the first run. When i checked the coolant level the next day it was halfway up the expansion tank whereas the day before i had to add a cupfull of water to bring it to the max indicator

Last edited by racing green rover; 19th October 2019 at 21:15..
racing green rover is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:06.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd