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Old 3rd September 2020, 15:13   #11
Landmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
OK, something else to check, when you opened the fob to fit the new battery, did you note the presence of the immobiliser chip in the key case?
Yes, the immobiliser chip is there.

I thought perhaps there could be something wrong/weak battery therefor I went to the shop earlier to day and bought brand new CR2032 - but it was waste of money.
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Old 3rd September 2020, 16:22   #12
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OK Lauri, place your multimeter on the thin white/red cable at the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to 'start' do you see 12v?

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Old 3rd September 2020, 16:37   #13
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As suggested by stocktake
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...51&postcount=5

Good luck.
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Old 3rd September 2020, 21:40   #14
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Make sure the car is in neutral. Join a small wire to the starter motor spade connector. Then touch the other end to the battery positive terminal. With the ignition OFF the engine should turn but not start.

Sorry, I seem to have repeated what others have said.---

You need to replace the starter motor solenoid. Either stuck or the contacts inside have burnt away.

Last edited by COLVERT; 3rd September 2020 at 21:45..
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Old 4th September 2020, 07:00   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
You need to replace the starter motor solenoid. Either stuck or the contacts inside have burnt away.
But it might be an immobiliser problem Jon. Best to measure first before diving in ....

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Old 4th September 2020, 08:26   #16
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If you have continually tried to start the engine a good few times, you could have scrambled the code for the immobiliser. Do not keep trying to start the engine, find someone with a T4. If you have scrambled the immobiliser code, you will never get it to start.
My guess is the starter motor solenoid contacts have worn out, or the battery has a fault.
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Last edited by bl52krz; 4th September 2020 at 08:29..
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Old 4th September 2020, 11:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
OK Lauri, place your multimeter on the thin white/red cable at the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to 'start' do you see 12v?

Simon
New day and...

Yes I see 12 volt.

Then I grounded the starter engine extra from minus on the starter battery in case of bad ground on the starter, but nix...
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Old 4th September 2020, 11:13   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Make sure the car is in neutral. Join a small wire to the starter motor spade connector. Then touch the other end to the battery positive terminal. With the ignition OFF the engine should turn but not start.

Sorry, I seem to have repeated what others have said.---

You need to replace the starter motor solenoid. Either stuck or the contacts inside have burnt away.
I'll try that
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Old 4th September 2020, 11:39   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landmann View Post
Yes I see 12 volt.
Thanks. That rules out an immobiliser fault then.

So if your battery is good then we're looking at Colvert's prediction that the starter solenoid contacts need replacing. This does happen on the KV6 (I had it at 88,000 miles).

There's one final check you can do. Place your voltmeter across the battery and turn the key to 'start'. If the voltage stays reasonably stable and doesn't reduce to about 10 v then proceed with the solenoid repair.
This will cost you under £20: http://www.repairkitsuk.com

Simon
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Old 4th September 2020, 15:24   #20
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Updates, but no progress towards engine running.

1. Just to be 100% sure I removed the starter motor from the engine. The minus to the body, plus to the main current cable and a stripped wire from the spade connector and to plus. The starter motor ran fast as h...orse. So both the battery (tried in another car) and the starter motor is 100% OK.

2. The engine is not seized. I can turn it quit easily by hand.

And the sound when I try to start sounds, like mentioned earlier, as in this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RE1zOT01t48#searching

So guys, what to do next - any suggestions please
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