Grey white smoke

donc · 4th February 2021, 21:16

Hi I have a 2005 1.8t with just over 100k miles which is giving out whit/grey smoke once the engine has warmed up. It uses no coolant so I am assuming the head is OK but it is using a little oil in-between changes. I thought the fault was with the turbo but that's been replaced and the smoke's still there. The engine pulls fine but it all seems a bit environment unfriendly? Any ideas for a cure would be welcome!!

MacRob · 5th February 2021, 00:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by donc

Hi I have a 2005 1.8t with just over 100k miles which is giving out whit/grey smoke once the engine has warmed up. It uses no coolant so I am assuming the head is OK but it is using a little oil in-between changes. I thought the fault was with the turbo but that's been replaced and the smoke's still there. The engine pulls fine but it all seems a bit environment unfriendly? Any ideas for a cure would be welcome!!

depending how much oil has gone through the turbo, there could be oil in the exhaust system in the baffles and when the system gets hot, starts to burn it off

donc · 5th February 2021, 10:59

thanks but I think any oil in the exhaust has had time to burn out. I wondered if the problem is with the valve oil seals. The engine sounds quite tappety. Could this be a clue as to what's wrong? The cylinder head was replaced with a second hand one six months ago and if possible I'd like not to have that done again!

COLVERT · 5th February 2021, 11:19

A compression test would give you an idea of the condition of the pistons and rings as worn rings are often the cause of oil burning.

It shouldn't be the turbo as you say it's been changed.

chris75 · 5th February 2021, 11:31

If it is only after warming up then it doesn't sound like the valve stem oil seals . They leak oil whilst the engine is stopped and release a veritable dust-storm of blue smoke when you fire up !
I did mine at about 110k miles and what a relief once they had been done

Nobody staring at me any more !
The old seals were rock hard and weren't sealing anything , but interestingly oil consumption was negligible .

bsafly · 5th February 2021, 21:57

A compression test wouldn't indicate the condition of the oil control rings, I have seen engines that show a 'good' compression test result, but still pass oil up past the oil control rings. When I rebuilt my wife's Volvo 245 engine, it didn't smoke at all under 3,600 rpm and if driven under those revs didn't use any oil, but if pushed over those revs would literally smoke the whole road out (fun to stand on the throttle and obliterate everything behind you if you (i) were that immature!).
When stripped the bores were within spec, compression rings slightly worn but the oil control rings were heavilly worn as was the bottom end, although it never rattled or knocked and performed adequately.
A full strip and inspection showed dirt ingress from the bottom end - i.e contaminated oil, or in this case gutted and modified breather by some numb nut mechanic / previous owner.
As worn as this engine was it never breathed heavily and appeared healthy until pushed.
So the question is does it smoke more with higher revs (rings), or after periods of idling/low revs (valve stem seals/ worn guides)? - assuming the new turbo is A1 ok.

roverbarmy · 6th February 2021, 07:54

The rear exhaust box fills up with condensation on short trips and takes aaaaaaaages to evaporate out. Try drilling a 3mm hole at the lowest point in the box and watch the water flow out. Stick a self tapper in at MOT time and save internal rusting on the box and lots of steam!

That may not be your problem but it saves a lot of steam and rusty back boxes.

bl52krz · 6th February 2021, 22:36

How often do you check your brake fluid? If the smell coming out of the exhaust is acrid, then it could be the brake servo leaking. I had it happen in my SD1.

Number 6 · 7th February 2021, 09:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl52krz

How often do you check your brake fluid? If the smell coming out of the exhaust is acrid, then it could be the brake servo leaking. I had it happen in my SD1.

Yes indeed, I had the same on An Audi,, it was the master cylinder leaking into the power servo unit and the fluid was sucked into the inlet manifold and burnt.

you could try disconnecting the vacume pipe from the servo or manifold end, and blocking it off and the start the engine to see it still smokes. BUT DONT DRIVE IT AS YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKE ASSIST.

WillyHeckaslike · 7th February 2021, 09:42

I would check the plugs for oil and/or coolant contamination. Coolant contamination usually presents on plugs 1 or 4 giving them a washed and white appearance in comparison to the other plugs.

4th February 2021, 21:16	#1
donc Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Kirk Ella Posts: 141 Thanks: 9 Thanked 43 Times in 14 Posts	Grey white smoke Hi I have a 2005 1.8t with just over 100k miles which is giving out whit/grey smoke once the engine has warmed up. It uses no coolant so I am assuming the head is OK but it is using a little oil in-between changes. I thought the fault was with the turbo but that's been replaced and the smoke's still there. The engine pulls fine but it all seems a bit environment unfriendly? Any ideas for a cure would be welcome!!

5th February 2021, 10:59	#3
donc Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Kirk Ella Posts: 141 Thanks: 9 Thanked 43 Times in 14 Posts	Grey white smoke thanks but I think any oil in the exhaust has had time to burn out. I wondered if the problem is with the valve oil seals. The engine sounds quite tappety. Could this be a clue as to what's wrong? The cylinder head was replaced with a second hand one six months ago and if possible I'd like not to have that done again!

5th February 2021, 11:31	#5
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	If it is only after warming up then it doesn't sound like the valve stem oil seals . They leak oil whilst the engine is stopped and release a veritable dust-storm of blue smoke when you fire up ! I did mine at about 110k miles and what a relief once they had been done Nobody staring at me any more ! The old seals were rock hard and weren't sealing anything , but interestingly oil consumption was negligible . __________________ Who said it was simples ?

5th February 2021, 21:57	#6
bsafly Just going about! Rover 75 CDTi Connie SE Tourer starlight silver and serpents. MG ZT-T 190+ in Raven Black. Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Great Leighs Posts: 468 Thanks: 626 Thanked 167 Times in 110 Posts	A compression test wouldn't indicate the condition of the oil control rings, I have seen engines that show a 'good' compression test result, but still pass oil up past the oil control rings. When I rebuilt my wife's Volvo 245 engine, it didn't smoke at all under 3,600 rpm and if driven under those revs didn't use any oil, but if pushed over those revs would literally smoke the whole road out (fun to stand on the throttle and obliterate everything behind you if you (i) were that immature!). When stripped the bores were within spec, compression rings slightly worn but the oil control rings were heavilly worn as was the bottom end, although it never rattled or knocked and performed adequately. A full strip and inspection showed dirt ingress from the bottom end - i.e contaminated oil, or in this case gutted and modified breather by some numb nut mechanic / previous owner. As worn as this engine was it never breathed heavily and appeared healthy until pushed. So the question is does it smoke more with higher revs (rings), or after periods of idling/low revs (valve stem seals/ worn guides)? - assuming the new turbo is A1 ok. Last edited by bsafly; 5th February 2021 at 22:05.. Reason: Spelling

6th February 2021, 07:54	#7
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	The rear exhaust box fills up with condensation on short trips and takes aaaaaaaages to evaporate out. Try drilling a 3mm hole at the lowest point in the box and watch the water flow out. Stick a self tapper in at MOT time and save internal rusting on the box and lots of steam! That may not be your problem but it saves a lot of steam and rusty back boxes. __________________ Oil in my veins!

5th February 2021, 11:19	#4
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	A compression test would give you an idea of the condition of the pistons and rings as worn rings are often the cause of oil burning. It shouldn't be the turbo as you say it's been changed.

6th February 2021, 22:36	#8
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,387 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	How often do you check your brake fluid? If the smell coming out of the exhaust is acrid, then it could be the brake servo leaking. I had it happen in my SD1. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

7th February 2021, 09:42	#10
WillyHeckaslike This is my second home Rovers 75 & 25 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Wearside Posts: 4,519 Thanks: 543 Thanked 709 Times in 511 Posts	I would check the plugs for oil and/or coolant contamination. Coolant contamination usually presents on plugs 1 or 4 giving them a washed and white appearance in comparison to the other plugs.