just a quicky ..question - Page 2

ceedy · 29th January 2022, 09:56

Cheers Steve, yes been following that since the start,
And a few threads on Freelander sites, they seem even more paranoid than us

Some recommend the "gibbons " method, which is just copying the USA methods of letting the box pump it out and suck in new at the same time

Info overload

C

QUOTE=Arctic;2918496]Hi Chris.
Are you or have you been following this thread how to below.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=124816

12. The fluid level shall now be set according to the Rover procedure. Start the engine, apply the brake and go through all gears/shifter positions one by one and stay in each position for minimum 3 seconds. Return to Park. Let the engine idle until the ATF fluid has reached 35-40 degrees C. The procedure calls for a T4 to check this, but I think it will be sufficient to check the temperature at the aluminium block where the hoses are connected to the oil cooler. When this feels warn, the temperature shall be OK. Remember to put the AC system to OFF when doing this so the fan does not run.
Set the level by removing the level plug and let the fluid drain until it just "dribbles" out of the box. Put the plug back into place, stop the engine and put the air filter box back into place.[/QUOTE]

SD1too · 29th January 2022, 10:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=124816
"Let the engine idle until the ATF fluid has reached 35-40 degrees C ... I think it will be sufficient to check the temperature at the aluminium block where the hoses are connected to the oil cooler. When this feels warn, the temperature shall be OK."

I don't think the above are Arctic's words but an extract from the thread he's quoted.

It will take a long, long time for the fluid to reach 35-40˚ by letting the engine idle, if it ever does! The car really has to be driven.
I also dispute the claim that feeling the temperature by hand at the oil cooler is a sufficiently accurate method and I think I pointed this out in the thread concerned. The integral fluid temperature sensor can be used by means of a multimeter reading its resistance which will change according to fluid temperature.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

2. Or if the gearbox has just been repaired/ replaced and can't drive the car yet?

There's an MGR technical bulletin which covers this. Basically you refill with the nominal amount of fluid, or the amount drained, plus a little extra. The car can then be driven so enable the gearbox to reach the required temperature and the level checking procedure is then performed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

1. Or If the car is in garage being done doubt if they would waste time trying to warm it up.

But if the car had been driven to the garage, provided that they started the job promptly, the fluid would already be very close to, or at, the required temperature.

Simon

clf · 29th January 2022, 11:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

Interesting Video for solenoid info....

Actually do a google search on freelander jatco solenoids and you will see we are not alone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qP4GHWEYWw

CBA can't get the linking to work

thinks its the https:// bit

alway have probs with youtubes links

Just found the POST (by SonicZS) I mentioned before in post 6 regarding a potential failure of the repair.

Having attempted the repair (but not tested in situ - only via a meter), I am convinced that it is repairable using tiny fingers and with some form or reinforcement.

But still not sure if a repair is advisable if they are still available. If it does fail quickly, it means at least another £30 worth of fluid would be required to repair/replace again. Overall it would be a saving of only around £20-30 but the risks of opening the gearbox (dirt ingress etc) to me, would render it not worth it.

ceedy · 29th January 2022, 14:27

Out in the cold got the ZT up in the air so there room for me under

And no allen key hole visible

is this this one ?? red cross ?

And how do you get to the Coupling on the cooler ? Cooler end or gearbox end

mine are bareley visible in the centre of the cooler with no real access ?

Unless i'm in ther wrong place ?

Also just to rub it in after not using it for 2 weeks whilst turning the car , the brake pedal went slowly to the floor and after i'd parked up , a big puddle of fluid under the car in front of the NS wheel.

Metal pipe just in front of the flexi bracket has let go

probably a rusty pin hole ..... now got to find the pipe kit and the Kunifer .

C

Mike Noc · 29th January 2022, 19:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

I don't think the above are Arctic's words but an extract from the thread he's quoted.

It will take a long, long time for the fluid to reach 35-40˚ by letting the engine idle, if it ever does! The car really has to be driven........

But if the car had been driven to the garage, provided that they started the job promptly, the fluid would already be very close to, or at, the required temperature.

Simon

Yes Simon do the job after warming the fluid up during a drive. Did ours last week and after refilling with fresh fluid in it only took 10 minutes at idle for the temperature to go from 30 to 40.

ceedy · 30th January 2022, 07:36

Q ..deleted ...

ceedy · 30th January 2022, 11:39

Right peeps

. this is getting silly

Crawled all over the underside of the ZT and there is NO autobox cooler anything like those shown on odd photos.

The only cooler is the one in the centre bolted to the subframe, which i've been told is a engine oil cooler ?
the pipes seems to join right next to the gearbox joint .

so which one is IN and which is OUT ? as its pretty inaccessible

no one has mentioned the Petrol and Diesel auto's are different

..

C

Mike Noc · 30th January 2022, 18:52

The diesel engine oil cooler is mounted on the front of the engine and you are correct the autobox cooler on ours is mounted on the subframe under the radiator.

ceedy · 31st January 2022, 06:18

So which side in the output pipe
You have 2 days to answer starting now,
Well until my plastic pipe arrives

C

SD1too · 31st January 2022, 07:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

And no allen key hole visible

is this this one ?? red cross ?

According to the photos I have Chris, your red cross marks the level checking plug.

Simon

29th January 2022, 09:56	#11
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Cheers Steve, yes been following that since the start, And a few threads on Freelander sites, they seem even more paranoid than us Some recommend the "gibbons " method, which is just copying the USA methods of letting the box pump it out and suck in new at the same time Info overload C QUOTE=Arctic;2918496]Hi Chris. Are you or have you been following this thread how to below. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=124816 12. The fluid level shall now be set according to the Rover procedure. Start the engine, apply the brake and go through all gears/shifter positions one by one and stay in each position for minimum 3 seconds. Return to Park. Let the engine idle until the ATF fluid has reached 35-40 degrees C. The procedure calls for a T4 to check this, but I think it will be sufficient to check the temperature at the aluminium block where the hoses are connected to the oil cooler. When this feels warn, the temperature shall be OK. Remember to put the AC system to OFF when doing this so the fan does not run. Set the level by removing the level plug and let the fluid drain until it just "dribbles" out of the box. Put the plug back into place, stop the engine and put the air filter box back into place.[/QUOTE] __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's

29th January 2022, 14:27	#14
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Out in the cold got the ZT up in the air so there room for me under And no allen key hole visible is this this one ?? red cross ? And how do you get to the Coupling on the cooler ? Cooler end or gearbox end mine are bareley visible in the centre of the cooler with no real access ? Unless i'm in ther wrong place ? Also just to rub it in after not using it for 2 weeks whilst turning the car , the brake pedal went slowly to the floor and after i'd parked up , a big puddle of fluid under the car in front of the NS wheel. Metal pipe just in front of the flexi bracket has let go probably a rusty pin hole ..... now got to find the pipe kit and the Kunifer . C __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's Last edited by ceedy; 29th January 2022 at 14:47..

30th January 2022, 07:36	#16
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Q ..deleted ... __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's Last edited by ceedy; 30th January 2022 at 08:58.. Reason: doh..

30th January 2022, 11:39	#17
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Right peeps . this is getting silly Crawled all over the underside of the ZT and there is NO autobox cooler anything like those shown on odd photos. The only cooler is the one in the centre bolted to the subframe, which i've been told is a engine oil cooler ? the pipes seems to join right next to the gearbox joint . so which one is IN and which is OUT ? as its pretty inaccessible no one has mentioned the Petrol and Diesel auto's are different .. C __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's Last edited by ceedy; 30th January 2022 at 12:20..

31st January 2022, 06:18	#19
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	So which side in the output pipe You have 2 days to answer starting now, Well until my plastic pipe arrives C __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's Last edited by ceedy; 31st January 2022 at 06:20..

30th January 2022, 18:52	#18
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	The diesel engine oil cooler is mounted on the front of the engine and you are correct the autobox cooler on ours is mounted on the subframe under the radiator.