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23rd August 2009, 23:33 | #11 |
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I can't Sleep.
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23rd August 2009, 23:55 | #12 |
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24th August 2009, 08:44 | #13 |
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Excellent info from Greeners there!
Ref another post. Cam sensors are used on petrol engined cars very commonly. Older ones use a dizzy, yes, but these days most engines don't have wasted spark, but one coil per cylinder. So you need to know which cylinder is on compression, which exhaust. You struggle to get away with wasted spark on anything bigger than a four cylinder. Prime numbers on the teeth, new one on me. But to have a number of teeth that divides into 360 degrees is helpful. Hence 60 as described by David. Modern systems us a 'fast start' cam sensor. It has more than one tooth of different lengths. On a normal one you may have to wait up to two turns of the crankshaft before you 'see' the cam sensor tooth to synchronise. The fast start cam sensor can sync in less than half a turn. |
27th February 2017, 15:20 | #14 |
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crankshaft sensor signal 'iffy'
Sorry to wake this thread from the dead but I have experienced what seemed to be an 'iffy' crankshaft signal in a 1990s Rover tomcat turbo.
It would start but not run, dying almost immediately after some attempts at trying to catch, all sensors replaced to no avail and in the end the 'iffy' signal was down to the signal cable. It was lying in the loom against some other cables that carried voltage and possibly some significant amps and due to heat/cold/time their shielding had broken down. This had induced a current in the crankshaft sensor feed cable that led to a definitely 'iffy' signal. The sensor cable was good for resistance, wasn't open circuit, it was doing its job, the extraneous and intermittent voltage induced was enough to confuse the ECU and so the car just would not run. Re-routing the crankshaft sensor wire independently to the ECU was enough to cure the problem but finding what the problem actually was took days of testing, changing components &c. Just an addendum to what is a useful thread which might help someone trying to diagnose a non-running crank sensor problem. PS. The Rover 220 turbo is no more, it succumbed to a multitude of faults, gearbox failure and a crumpled body after being spun... a pity as I really liked that car. Last edited by beededea; 28th February 2017 at 08:12.. |
22nd July 2018, 11:54 | #15 |
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Hi. I am having strange goings on with my CPM. I had problems in Febuary this tear and replaced the CPM. Great - all OK. Two weeks ago, the car wouldn't start. Left it for 15 minutes, then it starts. Tuesday, Out shopping went to start the car in the car park and - zero!!! Had to be brought home. Now, I happen to have an extra rover 75, so I took the CPM off that and bingo all Ok. Then yeterday "here we go again"!!! Refuses to start. Leave 15 mins and it fires up. Get back home and it won't start! Take out the CPM, put it back into the other car and off we go!!!! What the hell is going on?????
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22nd July 2018, 18:22 | #16 |
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I'd say the sensor's magnet probe is losing its flux. OK when cold but not when warm is the typical symptom. A suggested test is to remove the sensor when the engine won't start and chill it down in a frezer for 15 minutes. If everything's normal after refitting the cold probe, you've confirmed the problem. Fix is a new sensor. TC |
25th July 2018, 18:41 | #17 |
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Thank you TC. I have a new sensor on the way. Thank you again.
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16th May 2022, 22:45 | #18 | |
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Quote:
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17th May 2022, 17:46 | #19 | |
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Quote:
If the crankshaft sensor signal doesn't reach the ECM (Engine Control Module), your engine won't run. If your engine starts and runs but the rev. counter remains at zero, the fault is not with the crankshaft position sensor or its wiring to the ECM. Please see your other posts for my suggested diagnosis. Simon
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17th May 2022, 20:30 | #20 | |
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Quote:
Usually the crank sensors are very reliable on the M47R, but if they aren't located properly, or you have an intermittent wiring fault the engine can start but won't rev. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 17th May 2022 at 20:33.. |
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