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Old 10th June 2022, 19:53   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madeupname View Post
Battery is a few years old now, pre-pandemic, but I don't drive her much cos I keep her for long distances like away matches. So the battery goes flat of it's own accord. And yes, I know I should go out once a week and turn her over to keep the battery filled up, but I usually remember that when it's gone flat

In the Haynes manual it says to test the glow plugs with 12v. Maybe that's why the 'glow plugs on' message didn't come on then.
Anyway, it's on charge now so I'll try again tomorrow

If the battery has gone flat a number of times, the first thing I would do would be to put a new battery on the car before trying anything else. These days batteries should be considered disposable items with a lifespan of 4-8 years depending on usage patterns.

Also, taking the car out once a week is not going to be much good for the battery unless the weekly drives are quite long. You really need a maintennace charger such as a CTEK or Optimate.
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Old 10th June 2022, 22:37   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSS View Post
If the battery has gone flat a number of times, the first thing I would do would be to put a new battery on the car before trying anything else. These days batteries should be considered disposable items with a lifespan of 4-8 years depending on usage patterns.

Also, taking the car out once a week is not going to be much good for the battery unless the weekly drives are quite long. You really need a maintennace charger such as a CTEK or Optimate.
^^^^^ Absolutely ^^^^^

Batteries don't like to go dead, especially repeatedly. Every time you start a car (or bike or generator or what have you) it takes about a half hour driving to put that starting drain back into the battery. Anything less and you're just killing the battery by a thousand cuts.

A good maintainer like a Ctek (as mentioned) or other known brand is the solution to your problems - maintainer, not just a 1 amp charger.

Unless it's the alternator. Even at that, you're due for a battery.
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Old 10th June 2022, 23:00   #13
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I think I'd look at the glow plug relay and unplug it to see if that improves things.
I've seen them burn out due to the contacts sticking, and one extreme where it burnt though the casing and shorted against the casing of the ECU.

Russ
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Old 10th June 2022, 23:01   #14
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Thanks Sean. Just watched the video. So much I never knew about a car battery
And I now need a battery analyser
Will it ever stop
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Old 10th June 2022, 23:08   #15
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A lot of good advice on here as usual.
Thank you to all who contributed.
My current recharger has a reconditioning mode to it, might try that if I still have problems.
My dad told me years ago it takes a drive of about 20 miles to put the starting charge back into the battery, which is why short journeys are no good. With diesels it's even worse cos you have the clogging of the cat to consider if it doesn't heat up in time to burn the gunk off.
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Old 11th June 2022, 07:36   #16
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Hello Adrian,

My diagnosis is that your battery is being flattened by a faulty glow plug ECU. That's why the 100 amp megafuse is blowing. Follow Russ' advice and unplug the glow plug ECU then use your existing battery charger for at least 24 hours, preferably longer.

As you're using your car only occasionally, leave the charger connected permanently in maintenance mode. You don't need to remove the battery from the car and the car's cables don't need to be removed. If car batteries are allowed fully to discharge repeatedly, they die.

Relay R4, which you found to be loose, is the main relay so it's hardly surprising that the car didn't turn over.

There's probably nothing wrong with your original starter motor which you took out.

I hope this summary of the good advice given in your thread is helpful.

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Old 11th June 2022, 14:39   #17
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I've charged up the battery. But before I put it back on, which relay is the glow plug relay please? I may as well check that for signs of burning while the battery is off.
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Old 11th June 2022, 14:55   #18
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The glow plug relay is next to the ECU inside the black box in the plenum.
They're not easy to get at, and the connector is not easy to remove.
The glow plug relay is clipped to the interior of the case, there's also a heavy guage brown feed wire that bolts to the top.

Note you'll also need to remove the main fuse, can't remember which and aren't able to check at the moment.

Russ
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Old 11th June 2022, 14:58   #19
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Thanks Russ. I thought it would be there when you said they can melt and touch the ecu casing.

Right then, I'm off out........ I may be some time
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Old 11th June 2022, 14:59   #20
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ooh. . . main fuse... for the glow plugs? the 100amp one or the 20amp blade fuse?
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This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s
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