Solid wheel bolt

Glen B · 3rd July 2022, 11:56

Went out to put new front link arms earlier on my 2003 75 cdt. After successfully doing the drivers side I went to undo the wheel bolts on the passenger side. All going well until last one. It was solid and wheel brace slipping off rather than moving it. Tried a 17mm socket and it starred slipping round although the corners all still on the bolt. Then I tried one of those sockets meant for undoing seized nuts/bolts that bite into it fitted onto long bar. The socket broke apart, a section of the side came off. Then tried Emergency Wheel Nut Remover, 17mm. These have threads on that bite into the bolt/nut. It seemed to be working and then started spinning round leaving me with a rounded off bolt head. Not sure how I'm going to proceed now. I've had these wheels off hundreds of times in the over 13 years I've had the car and this has never happened before. The bolt appears to be as centrally positioned as the others so don't think it's cross threaded. I'm just glad I'm at home and not on the motorway with a flat tyre but I do intend to drive to Durham (150 miles each way ) this weekend which has been planned for months. Any advice/help appreciated.

Ed3 · 3rd July 2022, 12:11

I know less than yourself. But if one stud is stiff we usually tighten the other 4 studs in as tight as is safe and possible and the other bolts done tightly somehow can take the pressure off the stiff stud. Though I don't know if that will cause other problems in your situation

vitesse · 3rd July 2022, 12:13

In your shoes I'd drill the head off the bolt until I could remove the wheel, then I'd weld a large nut onto the remaining bolt - heat does wondrous things. Much depends if you've got a welder (or a friend with one).

Regards

ps Actually was in a similar position about 5 years ago with a strut bolt that wouldn't move, found an old SD1 steering wheel nut welded it onto the now rounded bolt and off it came.

Glen B · 3rd July 2022, 12:31

Thanks for the replies. As I am not a welder I will try to undo the offending bolt with the others tightened up ( which I didn't try before) although there's not any sides to speak of to grip onto with anything.

Ed3 · 3rd July 2022, 12:52

Knowing less than yourself - but I have had this kind of tight wheel nuts on a Rover 75 and the other is to see if it is possible to hammer on old A/F or WW sockets of a similar size. And I buy £4.99p screwfix penetrating oil spray.

I had someone doing tricks of over tightening my Rover 75 front wheel studs beyond what a garage can cope with.

So on one occasion I decided to write off the wheel as the cheapest way as it is easy to buy a similar wheel from a breakers. Though a garage did that job and not sure what they did when writing off the wheel as they seemed to use heat. Whereas my imaginations were to chop the wheel up with a grinder as a DIY solution - but that was just my wild imaginations.

On another occasion an engineering shop decided to help and drilled out the stud - as in taking ages to drill a huge hole through the stud. And the stud when it came out was copper greased for the engineers to say someone was playing games tightening the studs beyond what a garages can undo.

suzublu · 3rd July 2022, 12:54

Another tip, fit a couple of bolts hand tight, then drive the car back and forwards a few times 😎

Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk

polinsteve · 3rd July 2022, 13:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu

Another tip, fit a couple of bolts hand tight, then drive the car back and forwards a few times 😎

Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk

That sounds like an excellent idea. The appliance of science.

Ed3 · 3rd July 2022, 13:27

Sounds like good idea, would it work for the front lower suspension arm - drive with the middle nut (arm to subframe slightly undone a couple of mm to break the seal on the press fit?

Glen B · 3rd July 2022, 14:07

I think I'll probably end up taking it to local garage tomorrow. If a hardened steel grip socket has cracked trying to undo it I think it might taking a bit more than rocking it back and forth. I've tried filing it down and fitting a 16mm socket and the socket ( OK, it's not an impact one, I don't have one that size)cracked. I tried hammering a 16mm grip socket one but it just won't quite fit and goes at an angle and slips off when I hammer the big spanner that's fitted to it.
Thanks for your help but I'm about out of time.

Mike Noc · 4th July 2022, 06:53

Try giving the head of the bolt a good clumping with a drift and lump hammer.

3rd July 2022, 11:56	#1
Glen B Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Club Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Warsop Posts: 89 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Solid wheel bolt Went out to put new front link arms earlier on my 2003 75 cdt. After successfully doing the drivers side I went to undo the wheel bolts on the passenger side. All going well until last one. It was solid and wheel brace slipping off rather than moving it. Tried a 17mm socket and it starred slipping round although the corners all still on the bolt. Then I tried one of those sockets meant for undoing seized nuts/bolts that bite into it fitted onto long bar. The socket broke apart, a section of the side came off. Then tried Emergency Wheel Nut Remover, 17mm. These have threads on that bite into the bolt/nut. It seemed to be working and then started spinning round leaving me with a rounded off bolt head. Not sure how I'm going to proceed now. I've had these wheels off hundreds of times in the over 13 years I've had the car and this has never happened before. The bolt appears to be as centrally positioned as the others so don't think it's cross threaded. I'm just glad I'm at home and not on the motorway with a flat tyre but I do intend to drive to Durham (150 miles each way ) this weekend which has been planned for months. Any advice/help appreciated.

3rd July 2022, 12:13	#3
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,528 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	In your shoes I'd drill the head off the bolt until I could remove the wheel, then I'd weld a large nut onto the remaining bolt - heat does wondrous things. Much depends if you've got a welder (or a friend with one). Regards ps Actually was in a similar position about 5 years ago with a strut bolt that wouldn't move, found an old SD1 steering wheel nut welded it onto the now rounded bolt and off it came. Last edited by vitesse; 3rd July 2022 at 12:16.. Reason: more info

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3rd July 2022, 12:11	#2
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I know less than yourself. But if one stud is stiff we usually tighten the other 4 studs in as tight as is safe and possible and the other bolts done tightly somehow can take the pressure off the stiff stud. Though I don't know if that will cause other problems in your situation

3rd July 2022, 12:31	#4
Glen B Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Club Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Warsop Posts: 89 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Thanks for the replies. As I am not a welder I will try to undo the offending bolt with the others tightened up ( which I didn't try before) although there's not any sides to speak of to grip onto with anything.

3rd July 2022, 12:52	#5
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	Knowing less than yourself - but I have had this kind of tight wheel nuts on a Rover 75 and the other is to see if it is possible to hammer on old A/F or WW sockets of a similar size. And I buy £4.99p screwfix penetrating oil spray. I had someone doing tricks of over tightening my Rover 75 front wheel studs beyond what a garage can cope with. So on one occasion I decided to write off the wheel as the cheapest way as it is easy to buy a similar wheel from a breakers. Though a garage did that job and not sure what they did when writing off the wheel as they seemed to use heat. Whereas my imaginations were to chop the wheel up with a grinder as a DIY solution - but that was just my wild imaginations. On another occasion an engineering shop decided to help and drilled out the stud - as in taking ages to drill a huge hole through the stud. And the stud when it came out was copper greased for the engineers to say someone was playing games tightening the studs beyond what a garages can undo.

3rd July 2022, 12:54	#6
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Another tip, fit a couple of bolts hand tight, then drive the car back and forwards a few times 😎 Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk

3rd July 2022, 13:27	#8
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	Sounds like good idea, would it work for the front lower suspension arm - drive with the middle nut (arm to subframe slightly undone a couple of mm to break the seal on the press fit?

3rd July 2022, 14:07	#9
Glen B Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Club Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Warsop Posts: 89 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	I think I'll probably end up taking it to local garage tomorrow. If a hardened steel grip socket has cracked trying to undo it I think it might taking a bit more than rocking it back and forth. I've tried filing it down and fitting a 16mm socket and the socket ( OK, it's not an impact one, I don't have one that size)cracked. I tried hammering a 16mm grip socket one but it just won't quite fit and goes at an angle and slips off when I hammer the big spanner that's fitted to it. Thanks for your help but I'm about out of time.

4th July 2022, 06:53	#10
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Try giving the head of the bolt a good clumping with a drift and lump hammer.