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Old 13th April 2017, 19:50   #1
Barry1957
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Default Clutch pedal straight to floor

Earlier today my clutch went straight to the floor, I managed to lift it back up and pumped it a few times and got some clutch pressure back, but the clutch was very heavy and the bite was just off the floor. I drove back home and while parking the clutch went to the floor again and now the pedal has no pressure and goes straight to the floor every time. I have since tried to check the fluid level and after eventually finding the master cylinder is hidden behind the clutch pedal, I have not been able to access it as I am getting on in years and arthritis means I am not as able bodied as I as in earlier years. I have had a few stupid quotes from various places all of them ridiculous costs. Can anyone please help me find a cost effective solution.
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Old 13th April 2017, 20:11   #2
steveharvey2001
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Have you seen any evidence of fluid leaking in the footwear or under the car?

I had this issue last year and there was no sign of fluid but the slave cylinder had failed and however much I topped up the master, the pedal kept hitting the floor after a few presses.

What age and mileage is the car? Has it had a clutch replaced before?


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Old 13th April 2017, 20:20   #3
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There are two things that normally give the symptoms you are having.

1/ The master cylinder at the top of the clutch pedal has failed.

2/ The slave cylinder in the clutch housing has failed.

The master cylinder is not too expensive to replace. ( But dear enough. )

The slave cylinder replacement requires the gear box to come off and will cost quite a lot. If this is done it's normal to replace the clutch at the same time as the major cost in the removal of the gear box is the labour charge.

There were some forum members prepared to do this work but I'm not sure how you would contact them.--Others on the forum would know this however.

Much cheaper than most garages would charge.
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Old 13th April 2017, 20:42   #4
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Clutch time I'm afraid if it's your slave. Make sure you get it done by someone that knows what they're doing. Cost wise - around £500-600. They'll be an expert from the club around your area that will be able to do it.
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Old 13th April 2017, 21:15   #5
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I had these guys do mine. Was under 400 for the full clutch excluding master.

http://www.a1-clutches.co.uk/

I took mine to Tipton but Birmingham may be more convenient for you.
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Old 13th April 2017, 23:15   #6
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The car has done 140000 miles, so presuming it has had a couple of clutches with that mileage, as regarding fluid leaks, i have not seen any evidence either inside or under the car. i was recovered by the AA and the he seemed well convinced that is was the master cylinder that had failed. I on the other hand, would rather find proof, rather than stab in the dark on the first persons say so. Thank you for what you say and I will have to find a way to check the fluid level, before i start spending money on parts.
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Old 14th April 2017, 08:15   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry1957 View Post
The car has done 140000 miles, so presuming it has had a couple of clutches with that mileage, as regarding fluid leaks, i have not seen any evidence either inside or under the car. i was recovered by the AA and the he seemed well convinced that is was the master cylinder that had failed. I on the other hand, would rather find proof, rather than stab in the dark on the first persons say so. Thank you for what you say and I will have to find a way to check the fluid level, before i start spending money on parts.
If you follow the hydraulic pipe along the back of the engine bay, you will find it has a joint in it, under the battery, but visible with battery still in place. The joint can be parted and is self sealing to either side.

Assuming fluid in the MC and the joint parted, if the MC is OK your clutch pedal should be solid/ not press down very far. If it still goes down, then the MC is at fault. If it seems OK, then the slave has failed.

Clutch is below the battery, with two hydraulic pipes going down into it. The first the pipe from the MC and the second a short one to allow the system to be bled, which terminates in a bleed nipple.
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Old 14th April 2017, 11:28   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry1957 View Post
The car has done 140000 miles, so presuming it has had a couple of clutches with that mileage, as regarding fluid leaks, i have not seen any evidence either inside or under the car. i was recovered by the AA and the he seemed well convinced that is was the master cylinder that had failed. I on the other hand, would rather find proof, rather than stab in the dark on the first persons say so. Thank you for what you say and I will have to find a way to check the fluid level, before i start spending money on parts.
Below is a pic for you to look at-----------------Click on it to get a bigger picture.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bleed-Nipple.jpg (75.2 KB, 114 views)
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Old 12th August 2018, 15:54   #9
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welome.
the bell housing may be holding clutch fluid, the master cylinder does not hold very much.
DMGRS did at one time offer this service, Andy Willi does it I think at your house, he is a member here.
A word of warning, prepared for extra unexpected bills. I have had to replace drop links, low arm bushes and strut bearings as I found all these were duff while doing a clutch job


cost effective solution, prove if master cylinder is leaking or a joint in the pipe work.

I was going to ask what are your DIY skills like but I see from your original post DIY is not a possibility.

DMGRS is a trader here. This is his web site, you can check the cost of parts

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/

good luck

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Old 31st May 2022, 07:03   #10
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Hi Mac,

Thanks for the feedback. I've done quite a few jobs so far on the beast, including rebuilding and refitting the high pressure diesel pump - long job and no knuckles left at the end but satisfying nonetheless. I've also replaced both rear back plates, requiring a fair bit of hacksawing to free up the handbrake cables, but the kits provided by DMGRS were pretty complete and offered an nice complete solution. Also changed rear hubs, with the aid of an angle grinder for ceased inner races, rear coil springs and generally done basic servicing.

Never tackled a clutch, but just read up the procedure for changing the master cylinder and if I use the original pipes and the part supplied by DMGRS I should be able to replace that pretty quickly and see if once bled that this does the trick.
Your point about separating the self sealing joint under the battery is a good one to determine if the slave is at fault, but given there is a weep from the master cylinder on first inspection, I may as well just get on and change that anyway given the fact it is already on its way out.

Fortunately we have another car to bob about in so not in a great rush.

Thanks again for all your inputs which are pretty informative.

Regards Larry
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