Now we Know - Replacement Fob Cases.

[CMOORESY]

Just had an attempt to refurb a rover 75 fob...
I could not get the circuit board to sit / be held by the tangs (too wide), the whole case would not fit together due to moulding flash. even when trimmed off it still wouldn't. eventually tried with the original Valeo back on the repro front. This sort of, clipped together better, but loose at one end.
The lock button worked fine, but could I get the unlock to work, not a chance! unless you tried numerous times and nearly pushing your thumb through the fob.

Why was this?

well, further detailed inspection of the posts that push the micro switches showed that the one for lock (that worked) had a solid core. the one for unlock (rover logo shape) had a hollow core?!
Yes. how do you push a micro switch with a soft rubber hallow tube that fits around the switch plunger?
Basically, it was never going to work reliably - ever.
This, along with the softer modulus synthetic rubber simply squashes down on the micro switch without activating it unless you push the unlock button like hell numerous times.
Looking at the Valeo original the posts from the buttons both have a thicker solid core.

This is why the crappy aftermarket cases absorb so much of your time when it should be a 5 min swap over max.

There is a solution however. Throw your aftermarket rover case in the bin and buy a Landrover branded one (may not be made by Landrover but says 'Landrover' on the button.

These go together a treat and both button posts have a sold core as do the originals.

Obviously, when these were copied and the tooling was made, no-one thought to check the functionality (or maybe they did and realised the NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD--up, I don't know).

Just wasted 1.5 hours of my depleting life on this earth learning this tosh, but there we go.

[kelvo]

just done exactly the same thing today and had the same problems, ended up using the original Valeo back. So much for a simple swap.

In hindsight I should have just bought some old keys and used the fobs off of them.

I've not yet figured out how to unsolder the two push buttons from the pcb that have fallen off one of mine

[Dawn]

Bit confused? If they have fallen off, why do you need to unsolder them? Or do you mean the button part has come off leaving the actual switch still on the board? A piece of solder braid is the easiest if you don't have the proper tool. You just gently place it over the solder to be removed, place your iron on top, and as it heats up it "absorbs" the solder and off comes the component.

[kelvo]

Originally Posted by Dawn

Bit confused? If they have fallen off, why do you need to unsolder them? Or do you mean the button part has come off leaving the actual switch still on the board? A piece of solder braid is the easiest if you don't have the proper tool. You just gently place it over the solder to be removed, place your iron on top, and as it heats up it "absorbs" the solder and off comes the component.

the button bit has fallen of leaving the rest on the pcb. I don't have a small enough soldering iron - not come across solder braid though?

[Dawn]

Its brilliant if you don't have a de-soldering tool. This is the stuff:

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/de-solder...mm-width-n47fx

You will need a small tip on your iron to re-solder new buttons though, or it might get messy. I cheated, I took my 1.8 fobs into work as we have finer irons, braid etc.

[T16]

My experience with NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- Chinese aftermarket cases is exactly the same.

I hunted down Genuine Valeo ones, and bought a load as a stash.

Its such a waste of time and life that you never get back finding out NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- like this.

Makes me rage.

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by T16

I hunted down Genuine Valeo ones, and bought a load as a stash.

.

Thanks for that!

[T-Cut]

My eBay replacement fob works fine, so not all substitute fobs have this problem. The thing is you don't know until you've bought it, though I suppose you could ask the seller to check.

TC

[bazyerma]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

My eBay replacement fob works fine, so not all substitute fobs have this problem. The thing is you don't know until you've bought it, though I suppose you could ask the seller to check.

TC

Same here, but used the same Chinese supplier that got me cases for my Vauxhall vaivaro van and fit a treat!

[kelvo]

Originally Posted by CMOORESY

Just had an attempt to refurb a rover 75 fob...
I could not get the circuit board to sit / be held by the tangs (too wide), the whole case would not fit together due to moulding flash. even when trimmed off it still wouldn't. eventually tried with the original Valeo back on the repro front. This sort of, clipped together better, but loose at one end.
The lock button worked fine, but could I get the unlock to work, not a chance! unless you tried numerous times and nearly pushing your thumb through the fob.

Why was this?

well, further detailed inspection of the posts that push the micro switches showed that the one for lock (that worked) had a solid core. the one for unlock (rover logo shape) had a hollow core?!
Yes. how do you push a micro switch with a soft rubber hallow tube that fits around the switch plunger?
Basically, it was never going to work reliably - ever.
This, along with the softer modulus synthetic rubber simply squashes down on the micro switch without activating it unless you push the unlock button like hell numerous times.
Looking at the Valeo original the posts from the buttons both have a thicker solid core.

This is why the crappy aftermarket cases absorb so much of your time when it should be a 5 min swap over max.

There is a solution however. Throw your aftermarket rover case in the bin and buy a Landrover branded one (may not be made by Landrover but says 'Landrover' on the button.

These go together a treat and both button posts have a sold core as do the originals.

Obviously, when these were copied and the tooling was made, no-one thought to check the functionality (or maybe they did and realised the NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD--up, I don't know).

Just wasted 1.5 hours of my depleting life on this earth learning this tosh, but there we go.

BIB. I had similar problems but didn't notice the difference to took another look and found the unlock one hollow on the ones I had as well. I notice in the replacement switches sent that they have a rectangular section to press down on rather than the tiny rubber button on the switches fitted - in this case the hollow stem probably would still operate it.

As I didn't need to change the switches, I took a very small piece of plastic and glued it to the hollow shaft, it now operated much better as there is a bigger surface to operate the button.