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4th February 2018, 11:28 | #1 |
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Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009
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Passenger front window wont open
Windows were frozen this morning, wouldnt open, but that is quite common. However after a few attempts there was a “crack” sound from inside the door, and now i can hear something turning inside the door, but the window doesnt move.
Anyone had this? What am i likely to need? |
4th February 2018, 11:42 | #2 | |
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Quote:
Rev |
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4th February 2018, 12:54 | #3 |
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As above most likely the cable has snapped, if you need another regulator with cable etc just give me a PM
Mick
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
4th February 2018, 13:19 | #4 |
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4th February 2018, 17:20 | #5 |
older not wiser
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Think there is a 'sort of' how to somewhere on here.
Not the most difficult job to change a regulator on the front... I did the drivers side on my manual and found the real fiddly bit was getting the glass to line up so as to fully close. Think there must have been an underlying problem as the replacement lasted about 8 weeks before packing in and I didn't bother replacing the replacement. I now have a passenger side window that doesn't work - or rather it didn't then it did (when really cold around christmas) and now it doesn't again. Waiting for good weather to look at it and a few other jobs ahead of it. |
4th February 2018, 18:29 | #6 |
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Hi David
From what I believe I think it is similar to the Jaguar XF which I had to replace on mine last year. The entire window assembly comes out of the door, that is the two runners one either side. You will have to unclip the glass from the plastic runner attached to the cables and of course disconnect the motor wiring. The Jaguar ones were very susceptible to rust causing the cable to break. Customers are being told “it requires a new motor” when in actual fact the motor is fine. IMO it’s a design fault. If you go onto eBay for the respective spare part It will show you a good image of the assembly in question. Good luck. |
5th February 2018, 13:23 | #7 | |
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Quote:
Mick
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
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5th February 2018, 20:36 | #8 |
I really should get out more.......
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I thought my cable had snapped, turned out to be a shattered plastic bracket at the top.
If it doesnt make any horrific noises, likely a cable, if you hear bad stuff, probably the same bracket as mine. Good news is you can get the bits for £10 out the scrappy Interestingly enough, none of the cables showed any corrosion! I was astounded. |
9th February 2018, 17:07 | #9 | |
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Quote:
I am hoping to gather all the possible bits ready for a fix next weekend so want to cover all eventualities. |
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17th February 2018, 15:23 | #10 |
This is my second home
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